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Dattosan Machi Suzuki twincam 4wd project pg22

Thanks man that's very helpfull. I need to hide it somewhere but I don't no where lol

And that manifold and airbox are nice, I think a well designed air box makes a difference.

Got more done today.

Engine is back out
Switched gearboxes, now on the 4speed again
Fitted inlet manifold properly and sorted out all vacum take offs
Fitted the ma10 oil pressure and water temp switches into new engine
Made the ma10 alternator fit the cg13, need to make a sleeve for the pulley and a spacer for the mount

I started to remove things from the engine bay for painting
Unclipped all the wiring and got that out of the way
Modded the clutch cable to clear the inlet manifold
Removed the bonnet catch and cable, don't need it as I have bonnet pins

And Then I went out to my old mans and finished the manifold. The welding is abit ####ty but it will hold fine and the manifold has turned out pretty well, just needs the downpipes and y piece welding on once its fitted to the engine and back in the car.

Thanks mate, iam really excited as well :D it may happen today because I nearly every single part I need. I think I will try and get it running and then remove it all again for repainting. By the way, I haven't forgotten jdm garage stickers for you. I just haven't been back down there to work on my skyline. I need to go down in the next couple weeks though :D

I have some more pics from yesterdays work

Here is the comparison pics between ma10 and cg10. As you can see, very different fitment for the mounts. Maybe the k11 mounts fit the k11 box and k10 chassis. I doubt it though

Cg10 is bolted to the engine in these pics

My car has a different distributor and different wiring. I can't seem to find out where these wires go to. I think they go to the coil. Its been so long since I touched old teck like this. More used to injection to be honest.

Here's the dizzy. The dizzy on my ma10 has a screw in the top of the vacumm advance. Also only has 2 spade connections. Coil and earth. Iam guessing the dizzy in the pic below is off of a facelift ma12

Ma10 alternator on the cg13 bracket. As you can see it needs a spcer making up for the bottom mount. Also the belt is very slightly out of line so that needs adjusting. Oh and the pulley is too big for the shaft. So I need to make a collar to take up the slack.

Engine is already to go :D

Its electronic frank, it has a purple (maybe blue) wire and a black and white wire. A soon as I know where they go ill be able to turn the key :)

Well excited!!

No exhaust system, just manifold :)

But I do have a camera :D
Its electronic frank, it has a purple (maybe blue) wire and a black and white wire. A soon as I know where they go ill be able to turn the key :)

Well excited!!

No exhaust system, just manifold :)

But I do have a camera :D


Club Member
i think there is a power wire and the signal wire mate (that goes to the coil earth) my k10 haynes does,nt cover the later models tho i,m afraid so i dont know which one is which :(
i think there is a power wire and the signal wire mate (that goes to the coil earth) my k10 haynes does,nt cover the later models tho i,m afraid so i dont know which one is which :(
Just after my last post I decided that because the original dizzy had a purple(blue) wire going to negative on the coil, the same wire colour wire from the new dizzy should also go to negative. Then because they both had little ring terminals, that only really fit the coil, the black/white wire should go to positive on the coil.

I primed the fuel pump by touching the wire on the battery, the pump isn't wired in yet because iam not sure where its going to be fitted as yet. Also the fuel reg is leaking because I didn't have any ptfe tape for the inlet and outlet. Ill fix that tomorrow.

The alternator pulley is hitting the chassis rail and the engine doesn't sit square in the engine bay. Ill investigate that tomorrow.

I haven't had chance to make the down pipes or the system yet, I need to go and use my mates pipe bender.

However I gave the throttle a few pumps, used a screwdriver to hold the chokes slightly closed and then I turned the key :D

It clicked from the starter!!

Turned it again!!

Engine started to turn slowly, then slightly faster

Then it started running :D :D :D

I turned it off with the key, It didn't stop itself! I forgot to film it so went and got the camera and set it up. I tried to start it again and it was turning very sluggish and I was getting some kick back. The timing is obviously quite far out :( need a strobe! I thought the pulley touching the chassis leg isn't helping so wedged the engine over a mm or so to get some clearance. tried again and it just kicked back on the starter and then the battery had, had enough :( it wouldn't charge up properly anyways so I need a new one!

Any ways iam over the moon! And looking forward to testing it again with a full exhaust and fuel system all sorted :D
Cherry bomb tailbomb. Really happy with it. 75mm x 480mm body, 50mm id inlet, 65mm tailpipe and they also made the tail pipe 3 inches longer for me so I can have sticking out the back a long way haha

Can't complain for £40 delivered within 3-4days, also got 4 metre of 50mm bosal exhaust tubing, hopefully ill be able to get it all bent up in the next day or two :)

Alternator all mounted and new belt fitted. Luckily the new belt has 2 teeth less width. Ideal becauise the alternator is well out of alignment with the bottom pulley.

Alternator tensioner bracket

You can see in this pic that the alignment isn't great still, not bad though!

Manifold all mounted with stainless nuts, washers and bolts. Love how the dipstick is easier to use than with the standard manifold lol

Engine bay before the engine went back in. It needs cleaning, priming, painting and then all the little gay bits need hiding/tucking

This is one of the lowest points on the car, lca mount, and this is before the engine went in. Haha, yes I know, it needs to be lower. That can wait until I can afford corsa coilovers for it instead :D

Throttle cable is just slightly too short, need another 2-3inches. Hoping a primera or s13 one will do the job :nod:

Alt pulley rubbing chassis rail, thisll get turned back on a lathe tomorrow at workies. And will make up the neccessary sleeves and spacers :)

Clutch cable is very close to the carbs, I had to remove the metal curvey sleeve thingy

Here's the engine bay as it was left yesterday after getting it running

I could do with some help from someone who is good with carbs and dizzy, cose its kicking back a fair bit and iam unsure which way is advance/retard ect ect. Damn iam so out of touch with this old skool teck :(

:D :D :D




Sparks are from alternator pulley rubbing on chassis rail, the wedge fell out of the engine mount :) the pulley will get machined back tomorrow :)

The manifold is blowing in places because my welder died so couldn't finish it properly. And the pipe is just slid into the y piece with no clamp. The cherry bomb is on t'other end of pipe but is clamped on. Also there is no gasket between manifold and head.

Here is some progress.

Alternator spacer

Top hat spacer/sleeve for the alternator pulley. K10 alt with k11 multi vee pulley and I mchined back the pulley so it won't rub anymore.

The four branch very nearly complete. Needs welds re doing in places and a general tidy up :)

More tonight I reckon :)


K10 Tuner
hi mate, your altenators on the wrong way up, i had mine the other way and then it should line up,

as you say if its kicking back the timing is out, take off the dizzy cap, turn the engine by hand so that cylinder one is at tdc on its firing cycle, then adjust the dizzy so that the rotor arm is firing cylinder number one, then get it fired up and adjust with a strobe gun.

cant remember exactly what i had it at but 15 deg advance seems to ring bells with me. (vacuum disconnected)


K10 Tuner
also be carefull that your clutch cable isnt resting on the mixture screw, i bent one (or rather the clutch cable did) and had to replace it, so be aware :)


Club Member (Trial)
btw you talked about the wires from the dizzy. I have a modded dizzy with also two wires. Same colors as you mentioned. The blue one goes to ignition negative and the other goes to one screw of the resistor on the top of this page ;)
Thanks chaps, putting the ignition wire on the big resistor makes sense, ill do that and it'll probably improve things. I dunno if there is any voltage drop on the coil + terminal.

Scott- ill leave the alternator how it is now, iam happy with it and it all works really nicely now :)

The pulley had a 17mm hole in the middle and the alt had a 15mm shaft :)

All sorted now!!

And yes ill make certain that nothing is touching the carbs, especially the clutch cable. It hasn't been cable tied back yet.

I think the timing is fine now, just needs a strobe put on it to dial it in, ill just set it so it runs nice and then get it optimised at the rolling road.

When I was trying it before I had a weak battery and the car was in gear (no drive shafts though) so iam not entirely sure it was kicking back at all.

I finished the manifold last night and now iam just waiting on some 50mm flanges so that I can finish the rest of the system. Can't wait to hear it with an exhaust. And also can't wait to drive it for the first time. I reckon test drive is gonna happen very soon.

I want be painting the engine bay for a month or two, I want to make sure that all the niggles are sorted first. Maybe do painting and 5speed swap in one hit :)
your thrust washers in the diff will dislodge if you run the g/box with no shafts in kev :eek:
:eek: well there's the answer to my problem :(

I had a feeling something was wrong with the gearbox because the engine wouldn't turn over even with the hefty battery. The diff must have fallen apart and jammed.

Tbh I didn't realise it was in gear until I checked lol

5 speed conversion will commence tonight then I guess :D


K10 Tuner
mine made an awfull noise, but you probably wouldnt have herd it ofer the carbs and exhaust lol, rip engine out, tidy it up chuck 5 speed on it and drop the whole lot back in
mine made an awfull noise, but you probably wouldnt have herd it ofer the carbs and exhaust lol, rip engine out, tidy it up chuck 5 speed on it and drop the whole lot back in
Yeah not gonna lose any sleep over it haha

Its just an excuse to actually get this done properly first time round :)

I may as well finish painting the engine bay whilst iam there. Also iam waiting on another silencer and a mate, who is bending up some bits of pipe for me. I think iam easily on schedule to get this ready for rolling road in the first week of march. Not 100% if it'll get taken to RR because I have my first drift comp round on march 13th. Really could do with it on the road very beginning of march though :)

Here's another few pics of the finished manifold.

It still needs cleaning up and rust treating, then ill VHT paint it. Followed by some heat wrap, maybe blue wrap. Would prefer some grey wrap if I can get it :)

Kev :D
Manifold re fitted.
Fuel regulator unions ptfe taped to stop leak.
Alternator re fitted, all perfect and good now :)

Got some corsa coilovers, but need to collect them!!

Won't take long now to get the last few bits sorted :D
Front steady bar needed a tweak to clear the manifold

Bonnet is starting to go ####ty atlast :)

Plenty of room for filtration :D

Rerouted clutch cable inspired by bias' build on retro rides

Clutch cable route over the master cylinder

200sx throttle cable is much longer and fits well

Alternator pulley has plenty of room now

Why don't you spray some sal####er on the bonnet? that should speed up the process
Haha iam very lazy :D I keep forgetting to pick up salt before going out to the garage

major progress there machi san (Y)
dont worry about the front mount tho, mine was binned long ago :wasntme:

Awesome that means if it causes me any problems it'll be straight in the bin lol

Thanks for the comment, its starting to move along nicely at the moment, got lots to do this weekend and my missus is in london all weekend.

Iam hoping to have the majority of the hard work done this week.
or #### on it. lol that would help

no seriously awesome progress. I like that I know there is update every evening :D
Cheers fella, i do try to update often because its good to keep these things well documented. I forget how much goes into cars sometimes so its good too look back through :)

Its not the pooping that would be the problem, but the cleaning it off later wouldn't be fun :D
Some supplies came yesterday :)

That's primer, thinners and wet and dry.

A nice new, small washer bottle kit arrived as well, this will be hidden somewhere as well, but not sure where just yet.

Also got these numberplate lights yesterday, not sure if I like them :?

They are smaller than the standard ones but a little too curvy I think. I reckon squarer ones would look better and fit the lines of the car more :)


Club Member (Trial)
Have you seen the measurements in my thread which you asked for?

Btw. I like the numberplate lights


Site Supporter
Only now i watched this project. Im getting ideas for getting a K10 and install a CG engine... :laugh:

Keep it going mate (Y)


Club Member (Trial)
If everything is running, can you please make a soundfile? I have the same cherrybomb but I don't know if it is too loud and the cops will stop me :D
Have you seen the measurements in my thread which you asked for?

Btw. I like the numberplate lights
No I haven't I will have a look now :)

The numberplate lights were £3 for the pair haha, they are growing on me :)

If everything is running, can you please make a soundfile? I have the same cherrybomb but I don't know if it is too loud and the cops will stop me :D
Ok ill get you a sound file as soon as possible. My friend has a decibel/sound level meter, ill ask hime if he knows where it is and whether he can test it for us.

I think I will run 2 x cherry bomb silencers and if its too loud I will make or buy an Apexi ECV to fit into the exhaust system.

good progress, what wrong with the original plate lights? why dont you just move them closer to the plate like march has it
Thanks mate :) I did think about using the original lights but fancied something slightly smaller and black.

Thanks for the image though, i am tempted to do that instead :)

Only now i watched this project. Im getting ideas for getting a K10 and install a CG engine... :laugh:

Keep it going mate (Y)
That's chap :) k10 are really nice to work on, my favourite car to modify so far. The engine swap is lots of fun and even my mate craig is enjoying the tinkering. He worries when he works on my 200sx or skyline as they cost lots of money and all the parts are expensive.

Just for reference. This project has cost me about £1000 so far BUT I spent about £300 repairing it after the little bump I had. Also the tyres (yokohama 539) cost me £200 brand new. So the actual mods haven't cost much really :D
Yesterday I didn't get a massive amount done. Doing lots of overtime and it wears me out lol

Anyways I started looking at the wiring loom and how I can hide it and all the other bits I don't want in the engine bay.

The coil and bias resistor is now on the inside of the bulkhead, behind the dash. There was actually only one section of loom with 2 fat wires to re route to the coil. Didn't take me long.

Then I took the remainder of the loom and worked out what was needed and what wasnnt needed.

There is a plug for the brake fluid level - not needed ( I can see the level by looking at the resevoir lol)
Also there was 2 plugs that went to the carb and inlet - also not needed

Then there were 4 more plugs left:
Water temp for gauge
Oil pressure switch
Starter motor
Reverse switch

All the above were wrapped in conduit and taped up then ran along the bulkhead, but much lower down!! This mean that the upper loom that ran across the bulkhead is now completely hidden.

Iam left with the huge, horrid section of loom that runs down the inner wing too the headlights ect. This will be pulled right back into the car and re routed on the outside above the arch liner. It will run back inside the bay right behind the headlamp. Then through slam panel to the other headlamp.

I think iam gonna put a fibreglass battery box where the original battery tray was bolted down. This way I will be able to hide the battery and the headlamp unit and remainder of the loom, inside the box :D

Today/tomorrows missions are:

Front suspension off
Engine out
Brake pipes ect
Shultz the inner wings
Clean engine bay
Remove seam sealer and rust from bay and inner wings
Try and fill some holes
Make new holes for loom
Add my special machi san touch (watch this space ;) :D )

I would like to be putting the engine back in this weekend but I can't see it happening, we will have to see :)
Big updates coming now. Haven't got any pics of how it is right now but the engine bay is PAINTED :D

Here the pics that I do have!!

Engine bay being cleaned

Pipes, elbows, flanges and silencer/tailpipe

Painted gearbox, the mounts don't fit this gearbox either, so back down the scrapyard I go

Bay is very clean and tidy

Sorted out the ugly bulkhead lip

The worst of the rust lol, wire wheeled back to bare metal and treated with kurust

Seam sealer cleaned off

More pics soon :D
All primed and also all the seams have been spotted welded. Spot welds about 20mm apart. I did it this way because quite a few modded cars from japan are done like this and I think it looks nicer imo.

Shultz the inner wings after good clean and rest treatment

And some colour

I let my mate craig have a go at painting, he don't look happy about it

He painted over the top of the shultz

Hopefully I will get pics of finished and laquered engine bay at lunch time today :D
ah they look good from here mate (Y) i am going to stitch weld mine but ive only got an arc welder at the min so i dont want to turn it into a siv :laugh:
Yes it is far too cold, you will see in the pics that iam posting now :(

I like the spot welds also, they look great, will help stiffen the car but won't be as heavy as stitch welding :)

Really happy with it until I went and looked this afternoon. The paint has srunk between the primer and laquer and left big beige stripes everywhere :(

I won't be trying to fix it, because its not that bad and its only an engine bay. Its clean, its painted and there isn't any rust anymore. Iam happy with that :)
Its the standard colour with blue/silver metalflake in the laquer. I was considering a lairy colour in the engine bay, then thought about flake. When I started to have problems with the blue paint I just decided that laquer would help and the flake may help cover up some of the imperfections. It kinda worked, looks ok I think. I guess its not too everyones taste!!

Hopefully I will have the frontend all back together by the end of this week. We will see how my time goes.