cylinder head prob

a socket and amallet, and no, you have to take the head off im affraid.


well, after fitting the origonal head back on with the standard cams the cam chain has tightened again... seems the head that raceworx sold me was out of spec... ish..lol

but..

oil pressure.
GRR
at idle from cold (1500rpm) it runs silent, better than new...
but when warm, (850 rpm) the top tensioner slackens off soo much that it sounds like a bag of spanners falling down the stairs.

HELP..lol
 
Kudos

Kudos, pollyp, you seem absolutely fearless when it comes to getting stuck in and sorting out your Micra's various problems. I have learned a great deal about what to do, and, perhaps, what not to do when rebuilding an engine.
Thanks for sticking with this thread and also to the other members who have posted suggestions and information.

S
 
yes fascinating reading !, but the words "flogging" and "dead horse" spring to mind, i can,t see the sense in paying a hundred odd quid for chains and head gasket etc when engines that run ok are being offered for about 50 quid ?
 
antony: ah bummer, i think i'll leave this big job till next year n settle with topping up oil. socket n mallet sounds like a descructive way to remove the collets. thinking wether i should try it on the old head or reassemble and ebay the old head? unless someone needs it?

thx soixantaine, i just like to get my hands dirty and get things sorted there n then, driven by desire to fix things :)

frank was that bout anthony or mine?
 
pollyp

my comment was pretty general, my hat,s off to what you,ve done, been there,done that myself ! but when decent engines are so cheaply/readily availiable, you,ve gotta draw a line somewere.
the socket trick works a treat btw (a ball of rag under the valve heads and a sharp tap with a small hammer)
 
can you recommend a cheap 1.3 source as future reference cos i remember the cheapest online i found during my rebuild was round £500-600 from refurbishers (refurbed head was £200 odd), never checked scraps/wreckers yet.

btw could ya explain in detail how to get those valve stem seal collets off the head? seems as though they're pushed on. so do i tap a socket over it to grip then twist & pull to loosen the collet off it's seat?
 
pollyp

best source is on here i think.
that socket trick is for flicking the collets out
the seals just push on/lever off iirc
 
wow that's gr8 bargain to keep in mind whenever the engine's had it.
only reason i never brought a new eng was i didn't have a crane, no space in garage, £££ to buy, dunno bout hire rate.

i'll try leverin the collets off the old head to test, frank..
 
pollyp

you can get away without a hoist if you drop the g/box on the floor (shafts etc still connected iirc) then lift the engine out on your own (billy no mates me :blush: )
 
lifting a whole engine block out? or even the car? lol

the cylinder head & inlet & exhaust was enough to break my back!

though me uncle once mentioned he used to lift out his old ford cortina engine with a diy wood A-frame and couple family members back in 80s hehe
 
just had a word with nissan bout the valve stem seal collets and they're over£3 each = bout £49 coupled with £40 head gasket, it's well over £100

cars roughly burnin 3/4 litre per 270miles
4L castrol oils bout £12
prob do upto 4000miles till april so'll use £33 of oil

i think'll i'll leave this engine till next year
 
my car's fixed itself....

the engine rattle has gone, it started first time, and it idles silently.....

im confused?

its been stood for a month or two....
videos with sound soon on my blog!
 
pollyp

its just a gesse (danm brain cells are dieing by the second), we,ve had this problem with the kart engines, the compression rings have a lot more "spring" than the oil control rings, so when you,ve got a bit of bore wear the oil rings are barely touching the bore, so the compression is ok but they still drink oil !
we never had this problem with the old 1 piece oil rings coz they were as springy as the compression rings, but the 3 peice ones are really weak !
the only way we got round it was to fit o/s rings and file the ends to a 10 thou gap !
 
neone know if/how the valve stem seals can be tested?

i think re-doing the piston ring's uneconomical cos of the time & money i've already spent. i think before any major work, maybe take it to a garage next year for a professional diagnostic to be 100% certain, rather than taking guesses.

how can the engine use so much oil when it only smokes few secs during warm up only after parking it from a long drive? never smokes when warm or even accelerating hard from standstill. or could it be burning tiny amounts over time that it's not visually noticable?
 
pollyp

if the seals are worn, you should see black snot around the valve stems when you look up the inlet ports
 
now if only i could hire an endoscope to prevent taking the head off..

yikes, a flexiscope's £52 from HSS. i'll leave this one alone.
 
pollyp

yes the smoking on startup puzzled me too, i tried fitting "knowed good" different heads on ours, thinking it might be the valve guide seals, but the poxy thing still did the same !
at the risk of sounding critical the bores should have a "matt" crisscross finish when you glazebust it, that glaze is a high carbon skin (carbon soak from the burnt fuel akin to case hardening i think) and if not busted fully the new rings wont bed in properly i think.
 
hey guys
long time i haven't updated here.

i eventually fixed the smoke & oil consumption prob by replacing the PCV valve and all was good.

got the valve off nissan for £22

dsc00291wx5.jpg
 
during the freezing periods in feb, the car did refuse to startup one night, dunno why.

i checked air, fuel, ignition. all fine
filter was good. all 4 sparks worked. disable fuel pump n cranked out the vapours incase it was flooded.

reassembled, it struggled to start. after trying hard i heard it trying to fire, then sputter, floorin the pedal helps, sputters faster n faster before eventually it runs n clears its throught.

only done this once. tis ok now

i just MOTed her and little concerned the emissions test shows it's emitting 0.19% CO2 when the limit is 0.20%
would both the original 10yr old cats be on their last leg? or maybe the ecu's overfueling and needs remapping? (O2 sensors kinda new though)
 

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