Crank and Cam Sensor Location

Antmac01

Antmac01

Hi everyone, I have a 2010 Micra 1.5 dci n-tec and I was wondering if anyone knows if it is easy to locate both the cam and crank sensors as I am thinking of changing them myself or is it more of a job for a professional mechanic?

Also just one other question, my clutch has a fairly high biting point and when I move off in first gear and change into second I get a kind of rumble/chatter, which doesn’t happen every time but it does happen more often than not. Is it a sign that the clutch is on its way out? It doesn’t seem to be slipping but the chatter in first and second is some that has developed quite recently.

Any advice would be gratefully received and thank you in advance.
 
How many miles has the dirty diesel done? :p

If you haven't already, flush and change the gearbox oil this may cure the issue.

Clutch and or flywheel may be worn!

Check yourself or run in it in to a competent garage to have the gearbox mountings checked for play etc.

Why are you looking to change the crank / cam shaft sensors?
 
Thank you for your reply, I really do appreciate it.

I will probably take it to a garage as my knowledge of clutches is a bit non existent.

The old dirty diesel has only done 47,000 miles and have only purchased it 3 months ago with the last owner only doing 1,000 miles in the last year, which I have done in the past few months.

So I do think that things like the egr valve needs cleaning and check over the sensors to make sure that ain’t all gunked up as the mpg on the motorway seems a bit low, around 50mpg cruising at about 2700 revs.
 
I'd be tempted to do the following.

Oil and filter
Gearbox oil
Air Filter
Pollen filter
Coolant
Brake Fluid

Fill up on shell nitro diesel and chuck in some fuel system cleaner and have a good run using all the rev range. Reset trip / mpg and see if it increases. my on-board mpg never dips below low 70's with a heavy foot. I also tend to reset every time i fill up.
 
Quote; “my clutch has a fairly high biting point and when I move off in first gear and change into second I get a kind of rumble/chatter, which doesn’t happen every time but it does happen more often than not”.

Get the clutch clatter/rumble diagnosed professionally by your local competent trusted mechanics workshop asap.

Clutch clatter rumble & high biting point could indicate pending dual mass flywheel/clutch failure.

Recently purchased three months ago, the supplying dealer is legally responsible under Sale of Goods act consumer protection UK law to rectify all faults for up to six months.

Changing sensors, fluids & filters will not address nor remedy the indicated clutch & DMF expensive issues here.

Good luck.[/QUOTE]
 
Last edited:
Immy said:
I'd be tempted to do the following.

Oil and filter
Gearbox oil
Air Filter
Pollen filter
Coolant
Brake Fluid

Fill up on shell nitro diesel and chuck in some fuel system cleaner and have a good run using all the rev range. Reset trip / mpg and see if it increases. my on-board mpg never dips below low 70's with a heavy foot. I also tend to reset every time i fill up.
Click to expand...


Thank you for your comment above, a lot of the service items should have been changed before purchase but I will check them out to see if all of them have happened. My computer indicates 58-60mpg, even driving 70mph on a 200 mile run it never goes above 60mpg, so I still think there is an issue that may be more clutch-related as I feel that the engine may be using more power to get up to speed, not sure though.

As a matter of interest when even you get the chance to drive at 70mph could you make a mental note of the RPM? As to get up to 70 it's about 2600rpm and if I go near 75+mph to overtake for a few minutes I have to do nearer 3000rpm which seems a little high to me.
 
plmval said:
Quote; “my clutch has a fairly high biting point and when I move off in first gear and change into second I get a kind of rumble/chatter, which doesn’t happen every time but it does happen more often than not”.

Get the clutch clatter/rumble diagnosed professionally by your local competent trusted mechanics workshop asap.

Clutch clatter rumble & high biting point could indicate pending dual mass flywheel/clutch failure.

Recently purchased three months ago, the supplying dealer is legally responsible under Sale of Goods act consumer protection UK law to rectify all faults for up to six months.

Changing sensors, fluids & filters will not address nor remedy the indicated clutch & DMF expensive issues here.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]


Thank you for your comment and concern. I will get them checked straight away as I know there is an issue there and it has already been in with the Honda dealer with them checking it out and saying that though the clutch is a little high it is ok. I have a feeling that I was being fobbed off a little here but with the slight chatter that sometimes now happens when either I move off in first of change from first to second, I will get onto the dealer again and finance company and push them until it is fixed. Watch this space...
 
Quote: “I know there is an issue there and it has already been in with the Honda dealer with them checking it out and saying that though the clutch is a little high it is ok”.

Get your local mechanics professional opinion & written quote to repair the clutch issues before formal Email communicating to the supplying Honda dealer to repair at their cost as per UK consumer rights protection law.

Depending on their response it may be necessary to get an AA/ RAC or a professional motor engineer’s inspection assessment report of all your vehicles defects to support your claim in the small claims county court. Time is of the essence & act asap.

As you appear to have already been fobbed off by the supplying Honda dealer, it is necessary to establish a traceable documented audit trail of all your communications & the dealers responses regarding your claim. Formal Email two way comms is sufficient for small claims county court action.

NB: No informal discussions or telephone unrecorded comms to further fudge/waffle fob you off as they know how to play the system.

Do your own research on UK consumer protection law & the small claims County Court claims procedures on line where you state your case & substantiate it with your documented traceable audit trail evidence attachments as above.

WHAT CAN YOU DO IF YOUR NEW CAR OR YOUR RECENTLY PURCHASED USED CAR DEVELOPS MAJOR FAULTS?

Reference: https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/consumer-rights/

Enforce your legal rights to foc repairs against the Honda dealer for supplying a vehicle with major expensive faults.

Reference; https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/k13-manual-gearbox-problems.67811/#post-751594

Good luck. :)
 
Last edited:
plmval said:
Quote: “I know there is an issue there and it has already been in with the Honda dealer with them checking it out and saying that though the clutch is a little high it is ok”.

Get your local mechanics professional opinion & written quote to repair the clutch issues before formal Email communicating to the supplying Honda dealer to repair at their cost as per UK consumer rights protection law.

Depending on their response it may be necessary to get an AA/ RAC or a professional motor engineer’s inspection assessment report of all your vehicles defects to support your claim in the small claims county court. Time is of the essence & act asap.

As you appear to have already been fobbed off by the supplying Honda dealer, it is necessary to establish a traceable documented audit trail of all your communications & the dealers responses regarding your claim. Formal Email two way comms is sufficient for small claims county court action.

NB: No informal discussions or telephone unrecorded comms to further fudge/waffle fob you off as they know how to play the system.

Do your own research on UK consumer protection law & the small claims County Court claims procedures on line where you state your case & substantiate it with your documented traceable audit trail evidence attachments as above.

WHAT CAN YOU DO IF YOUR NEW CAR OR YOUR RECENTLY PURCHASED USED CAR DEVELOPS MAJOR FAULTS?

Reference: https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/consumer-rights/

Enforce your legal rights to foc repairs against the Honda dealer for supplying a vehicle with major expensive faults.

Reference; https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/k13-manual-gearbox-problems.67811/#post-751594

Good luck. :)
Click to expand...


Wow! A massive thank you for taking the time out for the reply above I really do appreciate it.

I still have some time on the 3 month warranty I have when buying the car so i am going to book it in today to get it relooked at and in between the time I book it in and the time they will want it to be dropped off at the dealership, which I am guessing will be early next week, I will get it looked at by an independent as well. So if they tell me that in their opinion there is no problem with the clutch then I can present evidence that says otherwise and I will do everything with a back up email to the person who sold it to me and anyone else I communicate with at the dealership from now onwards.

The funny thing that the service manager said as I was picking it up from getting looked at last time he said that it is actually a good little car and in really good condition which I would agree apart from the clutch, low mpg and taking a while to start!
 
@Antmac01 driving at 70mph on the motorway im a smidge over 2500rpm, 75mph sees around 2800rpm.

With regards to many service items such as gearbox oil, some manufacturers see this as a life time oil, feck that change it.

On my bmw 320d 2010 the manufacturers service interval is set at 18 / 20k. I think that's a load of tosh and service it every 10k!

My advise would be to do the following,

Change
Oil and filter
Gearbox oil (Chuck in some Moly slip)
Brake fluid
Air filter
Pollen filter
Fuel filter
coolant

Check tyre pressures all round, i stick to 35psi.
After a 15/20 minute drive pull over and feel each alloy, if one or more is hot then you have sticky caliper(s)

Throw in some decent fuel system cleaner and fill up on shell nitro diesel, driving using the full rev range once warmed up. You may see some soot kicking out the back end. Shell nitro burns cleaner and has enhanced lubricating properties which will also help your high pressure fuel pump / prevent injectors clogging up in the long run.

Do you see any black smoke out the exhaust? (Running lean, dirty burn )


Remove and clean egr & inlet manifold.

Hook up a code reader to see any faults registered, my car fires up pretty much straight away, if yours is struggling it could be down to glow plugs or the module itself, sometimes the only way you can find the culprit is by finding a place which can read live data as opposed to just reading codes stored.

On a side note what tires do you have on it? I'm currently on Michelin primacy's. Different tires have different eco rating / grip levels as well as noise measured in decibels. However i would not think tires alone would cause a large difference in mpg unless they are really under inflated.

do let us know how you get on and good luck.
 
Immy

This Renault engine diesel (2010 Micra 1.5 dci n-tec) would/should have had a major service & cam belt change by the car dealer before it was retail sold just three months ago?

If not, then that is another defect omission by the supplying dealer & another add on actionable item for the small claims court case action. :cool:
 
Last edited:
@plmval

I agree with you 100% however i always do a major service myself once i get hold of a car, i can then sleep easy knowing it's all been done and more importantly correctly done by my fat fingers! :p

I would not tackle the cambelt aka timing belt. That i would leave to a garage, however i love watching and my indi garage mechanic doesn't mind me watching and getting in the way.
 
Immy

When I was young standing in the way watching my trusted local mechanic, who became a friend, work on my early vehicles was together with Haynes books the way I learned this lifelong third skill.

Lifelong this enabled me to avoid wasting a shed load of money never buying a vehicle from a dealer or subsequently paying for servicing or simple repairs to this day.

Independent & self-reliant, I always checked, inspected & tested my bangers prior to purchase & bought them privately for knock down cash prices. (y)
 
Immy said:
@Antmac01 driving at 70mph on the motorway im a smidge over 2500rpm, 75mph sees around 2800rpm.

With regards to many service items such as gearbox oil, some manufacturers see this as a life time oil, feck that change it.

On my bmw 320d 2010 the manufacturers service interval is set at 18 / 20k. I think that's a load of tosh and service it every 10k!

My advise would be to do the following,

Change
Oil and filter
Gearbox oil (Chuck in some Moly slip)
Brake fluid
Air filter
Pollen filter
Fuel filter
coolant

Check tyre pressures all round, i stick to 35psi.
After a 15/20 minute drive pull over and feel each alloy, if one or more is hot then you have sticky caliper(s)

Throw in some decent fuel system cleaner and fill up on shell nitro diesel, driving using the full rev range once warmed up. You may see some soot kicking out the back end. Shell nitro burns cleaner and has enhanced lubricating properties which will also help your high pressure fuel pump / prevent injectors clogging up in the long run.

Do you see any black smoke out the exhaust? (Running lean, dirty burn )


Remove and clean egr & inlet manifold.

Hook up a code reader to see any faults registered, my car fires up pretty much straight away, if yours is struggling it could be down to glow plugs or the module itself, sometimes the only way you can find the culprit is by finding a place which can read live data as opposed to just reading codes stored.

On a side note what tires do you have on it? I'm currently on Michelin primacy's. Different tires have different eco rating / grip levels as well as noise measured in decibels. However i would not think tires alone would cause a large difference in mpg unless they are really under inflated.

do let us know how you get on and good luck.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your comment and the wealth of information. Glad that you wrote about your rpm as I was a little worried that mine is a bit high but it seems normal.

I will have a look at the things you have mentioned plus I am going to plug in my obd2 sensor and try a few apps that offer live data and see what‘s happening and try and work out anything that I feel is a bit of an issue, but I will admit that I am no mechanic.

I did get the dealer to change the glow plug circuit module as it was throwing up a code for that issue and got their mechanics to look at it over a few days which they managed to go through a 1/4 tank of diesel in their testing and them saying that they can’t find any faults so I am at a bit of a loss there. Therefore I am looking at the cheap things I can look to do first which would be cleaning the egr valve/inlet pipe and then slowly move around the engine cleaning and changing stuff like air filters and the like but luckily the fuel filter was changed when I had bought it.

Regarding the other service items I will wait until it is due it’s next service and get the fluids changed. I did check the alloys for different temperatures, to see if any of the brakes are binding, and all seems well there but thank you for suggesting it.

I took it to the dealers this morning and typically it wasn’t showing any sort of clutch problems that I have been experiencing. They had a drive in it and then I drove it with them in it and nothing, no vibration/chatter when driving off in first or second. So he sent an email to the manager logging the fault and have said that if it goes outside of the warranty period they will sort it for me. I will be sending an email to them later on today with what was agreed so there is a form of paper trail in place, just in case they say that they have no log of what was discussed.

Exhaust wise I don’t see any smoke on start up or acceleration which is good but it’s just the 50 mpg on a long run that bothers me as I know it should be getting more that that as it cost £20 to drive 230 miles and I managed to do 330 for the same amount in a 1.9tdi Golf that I had before the Micra which was epic at the time.

For the tyres it is currently running on Matrac Xm on the front and greenlaner on the back, all of which are 185/50r16 and I will check the psi later on this evening.

Finally I am going on a 200mile journey in the Micra tomorrow so I will try some shell nitro and give it the beans (Italian tune up) and see what happens and update you with my findings.

Again thank you for your help!
 
Ant.

Quote: “got their mechanics to look at it over a few days which they managed to go through a 1/4 tank of diesel in their testing”

Testing? How many extra miles were on the clock after they had it?

They took it home showboating & running errands to get through a quarter tank of your diesel more like?
 
plmval said:
Ant.

Quote: “got their mechanics to look at it over a few days which they managed to go through a 1/4 tank of diesel in their testing”

Testing? How many extra miles were on the clock after they had it?

They took it home showboating & running errands to get through a quarter tank of your diesel more like?
Click to expand...


I know, did seem a bit excessive at the time but I managed to go through the same about of petrol in their courtesy car, brand new Honda Jazz which was very gutless compared to a Micra DCi, and not pay for it so I wasn't too annoyed.
 
Immy

Two local Exeter workshops quoted £100 + incl VAT to change CV boot on my K11, they are having a giraffe as usual.

Needless to say, I am about to spend about two hours DIY entertainment on my backside, hands & knees fitting a universal stretch boot from J&R for a total cost £4 delivered.

At the same time as keeping my hand in & to see if I can still do it. ;)

Reference: https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/nis...998/product/bootkits-511/cv-boot-kit/JRBKUV03[/QUOTE]
 
Last edited:
plmval said:
Immy

Two local Exeter workshops quoted £100 + incl VAT to change CV boot on my K11, they are having a giraffe as usual.

Needless to say, I am about to spend about two hours DIY entertainment on my backside, hands & knees fitting a universal stretch boot from J&R for a total cost £4 delivered.

At the same time as keeping my hand in & to see if I can still do it. ;)

Reference: https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/nis...998/product/bootkits-511/cv-boot-kit/JRBKUV03
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]


Ha ha cool! Good luck with the fitment of the CV boot and I hope you enjoy the rest of your weekend!!
 
Ant

CV stretch boot DIY fitted all ok.

The 21 year old K11 fixings corroded in place fought me all the way & it took 3 hours on my backside & hands & knees just to get it all apart & the CV joint off the shaft.

But it was worth it to save £100 to spend on better things. You bet it was.

How are you getting on with your K12 & its various issues?
 
Last edited:
Great to read that you got everything sorted and I bet it was worth all of the effort when it was up and running.

My Micra isn't too bad. It still takes a couple of turns of the starter motor to fire up the Dci engine but I have gotten used to it now. The clutch is still high but the chatter when I change gear has gone after my last visit to the dealer so not sure what they did but it is fixed for now with the promise of if the clutch does start to slip any time soon then they will sort it FOC.

Took it on a 250-mile drive yesterday and it is still averaging 50mpg so I am going to take the EGR Valve and associated pipe off soon and see if they are all gunked up and then give them a good clean and then try and locate the MAF and give that a clean, just got to find it!

Checked the air filter and it was brand new and clean, quite surprised how it easy it was to get at so no problems there and the oil level was fine, hadn't dropped or anything.

Overall, all ok it's just the MPG on a road trip that's putting me off the car a little as I still feel that I should be getting more miles to the gallon but will see if the things I am looking to do in the next few weeks make a difference. If you can point me in the direction of where the MAF is situated that would be a massive help!
 

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