Corsa piston build with throttle bodies

[pork]

What you thought no about tension in second video? Would I need the half link


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[frank]

chains need to be tight mate, else you get spark scatter and cam noises at low rpm
half a link will probably be too tight with new chains (i only ever used partworn stuff)

 

[wehey]

I have a 60K upper chain, lower chain and idler sprocket sitting around here if you need them for experimentation purposes

 

[pork]

Haha, I've just bought a brand new chain kit for it

Oh well, il have a play with it


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[frank]

i removed a full (2 piece) 1 link tho neil

 

[pork]

Guess il have to see what it's like once I've fitted it, as I don't really know what metal has been shaved of and where


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[pork]

My inlet stuff won't fit a k11, unless I cut this section

As I dint have a k11 to inspect, am I ok cutting and welding this part, what's behind it?


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[frank]

stani cut his out to fit the sr20 neil, dash-out job tho, would,nt tilting the engine forward be easier ?

 

[pork]

Finding a k10 that ain't silly money now would be easier

Hmmm, possibly I guess

Would it just be a case of raising up the rear mount? (Remove the front too)


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[frank]

yes the front mount does bugger all neil, you can tilt the engine quite a lot on the rear mount

 

[frank]

yes the front mount does bugger all neil, you can tilt the engine quite a lot on the rear mount

 

[pork]

Might be worth a shot then

Got my eye on one last reasonably priced k10, if it goes to much....il just pick up a cheap k11 and crack on


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[pork]

Might be worth a shot then

Got my eye on one last reasonably priced k10, if it goes to much....il just pick up a cheap k11 and crack on


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[pork]

Got my half link on, I've removed the top left guide, and the chain fits nicely

Should I leave it like this?
Looks ok to me, the tensioner is all the way in at the moment, and can only see it pushing the chain further away from the old guide bolt hole

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[pork]

Got my half link on, I've removed the top left guide, and the chain fits nicely

Should I leave it like this?
Looks ok to me, the tensioner is all the way in at the moment, and can only see it pushing the chain further away from the old guide bolt hole

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[frank]

i slotted the boltholes on that lh guide neil, cant remember if it was to tighten or slacken tho

 

[pork]

It's pretty tight now


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[pork]

It's pretty tight now


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[l_jonez]

I had to remove the guide and even remove a bit of metal from the bolt hole it was that tight

 

[frank]

I had to remove the guide and even remove a bit of metal from the bolt hole it was that tight

was that with a full chain link tho ?

 

[l_jonez]

was that with a full chain link tho ?

Yep full link removed, half link wasn't enough

 

[pork]

Bought this!!

43k no rust......£200

z


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[1275]

woo woo

 

[pork]

At least I can get it all working......then find a k10


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[John_D]

woo woo

This perhaps (very pre PC)

 

[pork]

Can you take engine out with gearbox left in place? Can't remember


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[frank]

Can you take engine out with gearbox left in place? Can't remember


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yes, but you need the bumper off and no sandwich plate preferably

 

[pork]

Under 2 hours

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[pork]

Getting it back in like this will be a pain though


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[1275]

It takes me about two hours just to take the lights and bumper off

 

[pork]

Just building up rest of the engine, swapping over bits from this cg10, lighter crank pulley and lightened flywheel

Flywheel differences

Just need few spare hours to put it all in


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[pork]

Got the engine back in, I'm gunna need to raise the rear mount a bit to pivot it enough to clear the itbs from the firewall, and I'm gunna have to do something about the mount/crossmember bar thing......coz the exhaust i made lives in its place now lol

Eeeerrrr, why does the engine look on the piss......

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[frank]

the cg was always slanted neil, looking good mate

 

[pork]

Really? Whys that, or just a accident


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[frank]

to keep the diff low and shafts straight i guess mate, and just cut the support bar away and fit through-bolts eh

 

[pork]

So just cut it here?
Don't I need it to hold onto the front of the car?

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[frank]

i would cut it at the front neil, like a z shape in 1" x 2" box, with 2 bolts redrilled in the cross member and penny washers ontop

 

[pork]

Went to put the bar back on......and the captive nut has broken off!!! What do I do !

Dam!!!!


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[frank]

cut a letterbox flap in the floor neil ? i usually drive a spike up the hole and through the floor to locate where to cut the flap

 

[John_D]

A better option is to fit one of these (Rivnut),. What size is the bolt, M8, M10?

You can fit them without special tools like this:-

 

[pork]

cut a letterbox flap in the floor neil ? i usually drive a spike up the hole and through the floor to locate where to cut the flap

Can't I just weld it to the body?


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[frank]

Can't I just weld it to the body?


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usually easier to access the captive nut mate

 

[pork]

Cool,

Got most of it back in today

Had to mount the itbs the other way round, don't look as nice, but loads more clearance

And been having a play with the actuator and where to place it, originally it was all gel together inside the bike air box

Quick question aboiut the actuator motor, all you do is put power on and it moves, then stops itself, then reverse the poles, and goes the other way then stops

.......what's limiting its movement? Only wondering because I need to think of a way to operate it, and don't want to burn it out by keeping constant power to it if it's not meant to have it......if that makes sense


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[pork]

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[frank]

stepper motor aint it neil ?

 

[pork]

So I don't have to break the power feed?


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[fuzzy-hair-man]

Could you do it with a multimeter in there if it stops but is still drawing current there's a problem, if not looks like it's got a micro switch in there somewhere.

 

[frank]

praps needs a driver ? are they drive-by-wire throttle bodies ?

 

[pork]

They are, but I've taken the motor out, and converted it to just cable for now




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[pork]

Could you do it with a multimeter in there if it stops but is still drawing current there's a problem, if not looks like it's got a micro switch in there somewhere.

Il give that a try


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[pork]

I was thinking maybe once it's all running, figure out the fly by wire throttle

On the bike, the cable pulls the tps on the itbs, sends signal to the ecu, then powers the motor

.....so shouldt be to hard to make something to do that


...is it worth it though, I don't really know the benefits of having it fly by wire, (can anyone explain)
but thought it'll be something cool to play/figure out


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