Common MOT failures?

[fooby]

My K11 is due its first MOT with me as its owner next week. What are the common failings that I should check? So far I've found a split CV boot and an outer track rod end needs replacing which I believe would both be failures.

I do have a small leak in my back box, would this usually pass? Front crossmember is a bit off too, I poked a couple of small holes in it when I was underneath doing the drive belts. No other bad that though.

I've never actually owner a car long enough to have to MOT it!

 

[RyanSk11]

Sills, if they look a bit rusty from the outside chances are they're completely rotten! Heard a few people having issues with rear seatbelt mounting points too.

 

[fooby]

Apart from my front cross member, I'm near enough rust free I've heard the front x-member isn't a failure as it's not near suspension components, hopefully this is true!

 

[Agent_Sm1th]

A hole in the exhaust will fail, as will holes in the cross member if its within about 30cm of suspension iirc. Someone will know more about that. If one track rod ends gone I'd replace both. They're only cheap, as are the CV boots.

 

[Se@n]

I've just done my crossmember.
It depends on the garage but the one I use to work at says its a fail. As its main structural part of chassis.

My MOT due in December so thought I'd start getting to work before the bad weather comes. This may help give you a ruff idea what your car needs aswell.

Crossmember = Done
R/H trackrod = Done
R/H ball joint = Done (changed full arm its easier)
Both Outer C.V boots = To do
Handbrake adjustment = To do

Obvs check your sills, floor etc. for rust. I'm going to paint the hole under body with anti rust under body paint Helps protect and if your car has rust ( obvs not holes in it lol ) it will hide it as the MOT tech isn't aloud to touch it.

 

[fooby]

I haven't got time to do the x-member before the MOT. It's more than 30cm away from any suspension components an it's not the strictest test centre in the world so hopefully it'll be an advisory. It's not much worse than it would have been for it's last MOT. I've checked and checked again for exhaust leaks and still can't find anything. Starting to think the aftermarket (designed to be same as OEM) silencer is just a bit crap.

 

[Se@n]

Aww okay. Well best of luck hope it passes

 

[Agent_Sm1th]

To check your exhaust, just put your hand over the end of the pipe whilst it's running. You can hear leaks if there are any when the pressure builds up.

 

[fooby]

To check your exhaust, just put your hand over the end of the pipe whilst it's running. You can hear leaks if there are any when the pressure builds up.

I have done that, did eventually find a tiny pin hole leak where the pipe joins the back box, so there's a new one on the way It's odd because the whole exhaust system from the cat back looks pretty shiny, bar the back box which was rusty underneath. Must be a water buildup, maybe the breather hole was blocked?

 

[alfantasti]

My MOT due in December so thought I'd start getting to work before the bad weather comes. This may help give you a ruff idea what your car needs aswell.

Handbrake adjustment = To do

Hi Se@n, reference the handbrake. Can a poor adjusted mechanism cause a brake shoe to stick on releasing the handbrake, or would that more than likely be a sticking cable?

 

[andy]

Hi Se@n, reference the handbrake. Can a poor adjusted mechanism cause a brake shoe to stick on releasing the handbrake, or would that more than likely be a sticking cable?

best to strip it down and find the problem.

 

[fooby]

So it failed! Not on anything I wasn't expecting. A CV joint was split and the drivers side brake pads were worn right down.

I tried the CV yesterday but couldn't break it free from the hub and didn't want to destroy the nut to drive home. I have a new joint on the way as I think I'll destroy the old one removing it. Welded in by rust! Brake pads were a surprise as I only checked one side and they were nearly new, must have been replaced unevenly by previous owner.

The garage was nice enough to let me underneath to inspect everything while the car was up on the lift, the bodywork is exceptional for a K11. No rust anywhere on the body, this is the first time I've been able to actually have a proper good look and poke around in all the nooks and crannies so that's a big relief. He didn't even mention the front crossmember, not an MOT item as its not within 30cm of suspension. Just a good idea to sort it out ASAP

 

[K11 Luke]

I've just ordered some universal CV boots, they come with a cone that you slide over the drive shaft and then you lube it up and slide the new boot on. Really good little bit of kit, I think I paid £7 delivered for two on eBay. If you can crack the hub nut off and then put it back on a few threads (I do it till the center of the nut is level with the threaded part) you can smack it with a soft mallet or something to dislodge it!

You may find they did the pads at the same time, I can't think why someone wouldn't, and that the caliper is seized. When you pop it off you'll soon be able to see whats going on, you'll need a 12mm and a 17mm at least in my case I did. The 17 is on there good!

As for the sticky handbrake another person mentioned it could be that one of the springs has broken or hasn't been put on properly, so it doesn't back the shoes off until the car moves and forces it off. Again the only way to know is to take it apart and have a look. While you're there gently pull the rubber caps off the end of the brake piston, there should be no brake fluid at all, if there is any its well worth getting some new ones, they will be really cheap to buy.

 

[fooby]

Okay so we actually had to GRIND the old CV joint off. Neighbour is a TVR mechanic, ex. Land Rover mechanic who has a number of old battered 4x4's and he said it's the most stuck one he's ever seen. All sorted eventually! You know you've had a hard job when replacing all of your brake gear in the dark by iPhone light is relaxing.

For the record, to actually get the axle out from the hub, we ended up succeeding with a punch and a massive hammer to the center of the axle. Only do this if you are replacing the whole CV joint, not just the boot as we destroyed the threads. Threading the bolt back on to the end just destroyed the bolt, didn't come close to knocking it out.

Here are the culprit brake pads. One side had seized into the metal holders. Make sure you apply some anti-seize to the mounting points on the pads and the back of the pads to stop the same thing happening and reduce squeal.

 

[K11 Luke]

Dannnngggg, sorry to hear what a pig it was, its a shame the bolt trick didn't work either

At least you got there though, soon it will be ready!