Clutch cable problems

radarcomp

radarcomp

Hi guys, first off I'm a relative newbie to this site although I have been reading through the many great posts on here for a while.

Now to my problem, I have had a new clutch fitted to my little 03 plate tempest as the previous one was shot. The problem is with the cable the wheel nut on the cable is tightened all the way towards the windscreen of the car and the biting point of the clutch is nearly on the floor. With the old clutch the cable but was wound a fair way back towards the radiator of the car. Coupled with this there is quite a bit of free play on the pedal if the clutch before I can feel the resistance on the clutch itself.

I'm inclined to think that the cable has stretched but wouldn't mind the opinion of others on here. If I wind the nut on the cable back towards the radiator the clutch pedal hits the floor without any effort and doesn't return without the use of my hand.

Apologies for the long winded post but as I say I'd appreciate any opinions or advice.
 
I can't really remember how the clutch arm looks. But if it has an arm attached to the axle/spindle that goes into the gearbox (know what I mean?), the arm could maybe have been placed in the wrong position, when the clutch was changed? I don't know if it's even possible, but that would surely make the distance from the outer position of the arm to the cable stop too short, thus causing this problem.

Maybe you can just loosen the arm, reposition it, and fit the cable back on?

Sorry, haven't got my car near me. Otherwise I'd have taken a proper look.

Cheers,

Ulrich
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I had a look at the cable this afternoon and the 10mm locking nut is right at the very top of the cable where the rubber sheath is protecting the cable and when i push on the cable there is lots of movement and you can hear it clicking at the pedal end as if it is coming away from the hook on the pedal. I'm going to take a guess that the cable is stretched given the amount of play there is.

I've included a pic of what it looks like now.
 

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yes the fitting looks ok eh, tho my plastic part is black not white, the adjustment will work to your favour as the clutch wears down tho
just fit an extra rubber washer for now :)
 
Thanks for the reply Frank. The new clutch feels great and a lot lighter to press than the older one, its just with the 10mm lock nut being wound so far up the cable it doesn't leave any room to raise the biting point . As it is its very low I would say just below a 1/4 of the way up.

I'm assuming and correct me if I am wrong but when the old ruined clutch was in the car the cable wasn't wound up so far because there wasn't a lot of meat left on the clutch. Funny thing is though I could raise the biting point on it. With the new clutch I can't raise the biting point any further than it is already.

Is it normal for to need a clutch cable change after fitting a new clutch frank? I have ordered a new cable and quite fancy fitting it myself, is it an easy job?

This car was the most unloved little thing when I bought it in June, needed new tyres and a good service. Had the gearbox oil changed and that was a nightmare as the filler plug wouldn't come out so the speedo drive needed to come out to fill it apparently . I'm no mechanic but find this the easiest car to work on.
 
a cable change is pretty easy once you have found the knack of slipping the end of the cable over the hook at the top of the pedal mate :) (by feel, not sight) then just refit the g/box end
 
The saga with my clutch cable continues. I ordered a new one from eurocarparts and it arrived today. Fitting it was a doddle to do however when I press the clutch pedal it doesn't return without the use of my hand or foot. Plus there is the most awful creaking sound when it goes down like its binding on something. Any ideas frank? The cable is made by pagid and is 1030mm in size.
 

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I refitted the original. There is a definite difference in the cables the original looks like the first pic below and the replacement looks like the second. It makes me wonder if the metal fitting on the pedal end of the replacement cable is getting stuck. You were absolutely right about how easy the cable is to fit frank.
 

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I've just replaced my clutch cable with blueprint too (the old cheapo plastic one snapped).

http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-114#post-699243

with a new meatier clutch, the PP fingers sit much further away from the gearbox therefore the release bearing, fork, clutch cable has to be tightened up all the way to raise the bite point so that when the pedals on the floor, it's pulled the cable assembly far enough to disengage the clutch.

as the clutch wears thinner, it begins to allow the PP to rest against the release mechanism & cable which raises the bite point, which is why you should periodically check n adjust the cable till the bite points below 1/2 way.

on my 200mm helix clutch, the PP requires alot of travel so even with the thumbscrew fully tight, the bite point was still too low cos some of the pedal travel was used to ccompress the soft rubber washers.
so I removed all the squishy rubber washers from the thumbscrew end and now the bite point is just about high enough.

another thing to consider imo is how much the flywheel face has been machined (distance from flywheel to gearbox bellhousing that holds the clutch arm).
a new meaty thick clutch plate moves the PP finger away from the release bearing. machining the flywheel too much will move it even further away so the release bearing, clutch fork, cable & pedal assembly will have to travel even more till there's not enough pedal travel to release the clutch.
 
I originally bought a pagid cable but I will be staying well away from them in future. The clutch I bought was a valeo one. I'm so glad the clutch was changed as the old one was right down to the rivets. Any ideas about the awful squealing noise. I posted a link to a video I uploaded to my drop box and the squeal can be clearly heard. The belts are original Nissan ones and I'm thinking that given the car is 11 years old they may be the cause.
 
sounds abit like a metal on metal squeally belt pulley bearing or metal cover rubbing.
remove the two belts, check if they're cracked or greasy contaminated. then check all the tensioners n all the pulleys for any slight worn bearing play
 
I did notice very slight fraying to the alternator belt it definitely sounds like a metallic squeal. The faster the engine is going the more it squeals and stops when idling
 
radarcomp said:
Hi guys, first off I'm a relative newbie to this site although I have been reading through the many great posts on here for a while.

Now to my problem, I have had a new clutch fitted to my little 03 plate tempest as the previous one was shot. The problem is with the cable the wheel nut on the cable is tightened all the way towards the windscreen of the car and the biting point of the clutch is nearly on the floor. With the old clutch the cable but was wound a fair way back towards the radiator of the car. Coupled with this there is quite a bit of free play on the pedal if the clutch before I can feel the resistance on the clutch itself.

I'm inclined to think that the cable has stretched but wouldn't mind the opinion of others on here. If I wind the nut on the cable back towards the radiator the clutch pedal hits the floor without any effort and doesn't return without the use of my hand.

Apologies for the long winded post but as I say I'd appreciate any opinions or advice.
Click to expand...

Hi
read all this thread with great interest
Having same problems here with my micra K11 from early 2003
New clutch from Valeo and a new cable fitted
Hard adjusting a bite point which is good enough to let me change the gears properly, problems going in reverse
Beer cap on cable is turned all the way towards windscreen not letting any adjustment possible
Tomorrow im trying to fit a spacer of plastic or something on the cable on the holding bracket just to shorten up the cable , - this is giving a shorter inner cable so you can adjust the beer cap more towards radiator.
By investigation of this matter i have discovered that there is a variety of cable lengts on the market ... it seems like there is 3 cables lenghts on the market . 623 mm and a 625 mm and even 655 mm !!!!
Even seen a 1030 mm :)
I should have installed a 623 mm cable but not shure :)
anyway ..... how did Things end up with your car ?
Regs Carsten
 
Carsten said:
Hi
read all this thread with great interest
Having same problems here with my micra K11 from early 2003
New clutch from Valeo and a new cable fitted
Hard adjusting a bite point which is good enough to let me change the gears properly, problems going in reverse
Beer cap on cable is turned all the way towards windscreen not letting any adjustment possible
Tomorrow im trying to fit a spacer of plastic or something on the cable on the holding bracket just to shorten up the cable , - this is giving a shorter inner cable so you can adjust the beer cap more towards radiator.
By investigation of this matter i have discovered that there is a variety of cable lengts on the market ... it seems like there is 3 cables lenghts on the market . 623 mm and a 625 mm and even 655 mm !!!!
Even seen a 1030 mm :)
I should have installed a 623 mm cable but not shure :)
anyway ..... how did Things end up with your car ?
Regs Carsten
Click to expand...
Hi Carsten,

I bought a blueprint clutch cable from my local motor factors who sourced it for me and that sorted my problem. The correct clutch cable according to the receipt I have for it has nissan part number 307706F710. Hope that helps you
 

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