Changing Timing Chain Guide?
- Thread starter andy_con
- Start date
Sometimes members usernames are spelt...oddly
... I found a http://www.micra.org.uk/members/kennierobo.3888/ by putting in "Ken"...and clicking down
Is that the Guy Frank?
I can't check...as I'm not a full member i don't have access to that area
good luck
ETA:...it would seem that it wasn't posted in the guide area after all..this it?
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/changing-timing-chain.44522/
... I found a http://www.micra.org.uk/members/kennierobo.3888/ by putting in "Ken"...and clicking down
Is that the Guy Frank?
I can't check...as I'm not a full member i don't have access to that area
good luck
ETA:...it would seem that it wasn't posted in the guide area after all..this it?
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/changing-timing-chain.44522/
EDIT: Scratch that, though I was on the K11 side
it took us just over an hour to remove the w**ky bumper, but once that was off the rest started flying off.
found lots of other things wrong -
broken earth cable to the alternator
possible source to the oil leak
needs a new aux belt which is mega cracked
also the car needs a new air con pump, does anyone know which one is the correct replacement? been trying to fond one on ebay
its a 52 plate k12 1.4 micra
SuluR
Buy & Sell Member
it took us just over an hour to remove the w**ky bumper, but once that was off the rest started flying off.
found lots of other things wrong -
broken earth cable to the alternator
possible source to the oil leak
needs a new aux belt which is mega cracked
also the car needs a new air con pump, does anyone know which one is the correct replacement? been trying to fond one on ebay
its a 52 plate k12 1.4 micra
There should be a carlsonic? Green sticker on the side with part number. Or you can check on www.nissan4u.com
SuluR
Buy & Sell Member
Unfortunately there's about a million different types (well when I was looking for k11 one) eventually I thought I found the right one but the pipes are too big (yet the part number apparently fits. Grr)
wow what a difficult web site to use
am i in the right place
http://nissan4u.com/parts/micra/er_...l/fan_and_compressor_and_power_steering_belt/
am i in the right place
http://nissan4u.com/parts/micra/er_...l/fan_and_compressor_and_power_steering_belt/
SuluR
Buy & Sell Member
This is what you need mate (under 'body electricals' :S).
http://nissan4u.com/parts/micra/er_...mpressor_mounting_and_fitting/illustration_1/
SuluR
Buy & Sell Member
ok were a tad stuck
drained the oil and removed the bottom sump cover and there are two bolts on show which we have removed in order to get the timing chain cover off. all bolts have been removed from the timing chain cover but something is holding it on.
now when under the car and look up into the sump there is a third screw, but you just cannot get anything to it to undo it. does this need to be removed???
does anyone know how many bolts there are from the sump into the timing chain cover?
drained the oil and removed the bottom sump cover and there are two bolts on show which we have removed in order to get the timing chain cover off. all bolts have been removed from the timing chain cover but something is holding it on.
now when under the car and look up into the sump there is a third screw, but you just cannot get anything to it to undo it. does this need to be removed???
does anyone know how many bolts there are from the sump into the timing chain cover?
ok so some photos
here is a photo looking directly up into the engine with the sump panel removed.
the two red are bolts which we have removed as we believe these hold the timing chain cover on.
the green line is where the timing chain cover is
the blue bolt is the bolt we cant get to but and unsure if we need to remove this or not?
rest of the pics
a photo of the bolt which is blocked by metal
bolt again
oil strainer we believe the haynes manual says to remove
looking from the bottom of the engine at the timing chain cover
then my phone battery died
the haynes manual is a piece of wank, the biggest waste of £20 i ever spent. it simple says remove the bolts and remove the timing chain cover... yeah real helpful.
getting the timing chain cover off is the last part so any info or help would be really great
here is a photo looking directly up into the engine with the sump panel removed.
the two red are bolts which we have removed as we believe these hold the timing chain cover on.
the green line is where the timing chain cover is
the blue bolt is the bolt we cant get to but and unsure if we need to remove this or not?
rest of the pics
a photo of the bolt which is blocked by metal
bolt again
oil strainer we believe the haynes manual says to remove
looking from the bottom of the engine at the timing chain cover
then my phone battery died
the haynes manual is a piece of wank, the biggest waste of £20 i ever spent. it simple says remove the bolts and remove the timing chain cover... yeah real helpful.
getting the timing chain cover off is the last part so any info or help would be really great
frank
Club Member
frank
Club Member
the cover is wedged/sandwiched between the cyl head and intermediate sump surely ??? so you,re supposed to take the head off too iirc, because you will probably scar the head gasket when removing the coverdoubt! i need hard facts
frank
Club Member
he,s the one i mean, the old biker "split the chain" trick
I have done this job on several occasions and what Frank is telling you is correct. The upper aluminium sump has to come off to releases the timing cover. Even if you did manage to get the cover off with sump on, you would damage the front of the Head Gasket and you would never get the cover back on.
You need to undo the Bellhousing bolts, push gearbox away from engine slightly, then undo all bolts from sump to remove. This is why as Belly 93 has said alot of people remove the engine to do this job. It can be done with engine in situ but be very carefull as when front engine mount is off and gearbox is un-bolted from engine only your jack will be supporting the engine and it will move around loads!
The red arrowed bolts in your pic are not timing case fixings, there just the front fixing bolts for the upper sump (one just happens to go into the timing case) The blue arrowed bolt is one of the fixings for the oil strainer (it has two) they are bolted into the bottom of the oil pump, which is part of the timing case (again access to these bolts is possible after removing upper sump)
Sorry unless you can seperate chain and feed it through as has been previously mentioned, there is no quick way of doing this.
You need to undo the Bellhousing bolts, push gearbox away from engine slightly, then undo all bolts from sump to remove. This is why as Belly 93 has said alot of people remove the engine to do this job. It can be done with engine in situ but be very carefull as when front engine mount is off and gearbox is un-bolted from engine only your jack will be supporting the engine and it will move around loads!
The red arrowed bolts in your pic are not timing case fixings, there just the front fixing bolts for the upper sump (one just happens to go into the timing case) The blue arrowed bolt is one of the fixings for the oil strainer (it has two) they are bolted into the bottom of the oil pump, which is part of the timing case (again access to these bolts is possible after removing upper sump)
Sorry unless you can seperate chain and feed it through as has been previously mentioned, there is no quick way of doing this.
frank
Club Member
has this been ongoing for nearly 3 yrs andy ? http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/how-to-tell-if.37170/
thanks for the useful info.
have undone the sump and broken the seal, but it will not come off. something inside is preventing it from actually being taken off, not a bolt of anything as its completely loose
what a totally wank deisgn why the fook is the oil strainer bolted to the timing chain cover.
so currently the sump is loose and the timing chain cover is loose but i cannt get both off, how the hell do you do it?
have undone the sump and broken the seal, but it will not come off. something inside is preventing it from actually being taken off, not a bolt of anything as its completely loose
what a totally wank deisgn why the fook is the oil strainer bolted to the timing chain cover.
so currently the sump is loose and the timing chain cover is loose but i cannt get both off, how the hell do you do it?
I have done this job on several occasions and what Frank is telling you is correct. The upper aluminium sump has to come off to releases the timing cover. Even if you did manage to get the cover off with sump on, you would damage the front of the Head Gasket and you would never get the cover back on.
You need to undo the Bellhousing bolts, push gearbox away from engine slightly, then undo all bolts from sump to remove. This is why as Belly 93 has said alot of people remove the engine to do this job. It can be done with engine in situ but be very carefull as when front engine mount is off and gearbox is un-bolted from engine only your jack will be supporting the engine and it will move around loads!
The red arrowed bolts in your pic are not timing case fixings, there just the front fixing bolts for the upper sump (one just happens to go into the timing case) The blue arrowed bolt is one of the fixings for the oil strainer (it has two) they are bolted into the bottom of the oil pump, which is part of the timing case (again access to these bolts is possible after removing upper sump)
Sorry unless you can seperate chain and feed it through as has been previously mentioned, there is no quick way of doing this.
the issues started 3 years ago yes, we just ignored it and carried on driving till the car was not driveable anything.
the timing chain is so loose its unreal and the tension bar thing is fully out.
none of the 3 coloured chain links line up with anything
the timing chain is so loose its unreal and the tension bar thing is fully out.
none of the 3 coloured chain links line up with anything
Have you pushed the gearbox back?? It will not fully clear if the gearbox is bolted to the engine, even if it feels loose. Also sometimes they get stuck on the dipstick tube (the rubber seal goes dry and seizes in the sump.) The manifold bracket is also bolted to sump iirc so that will also need removing.
The oil stainer is bolted to the oil pump which is mounted in the front cover. It is done this way so it can be driven directly from a large keyway on the crank, instead of having a seperate chain to drive it.
The oil stainer is bolted to the oil pump which is mounted in the front cover. It is done this way so it can be driven directly from a large keyway on the crank, instead of having a seperate chain to drive it.
frank
Club Member
you might need a special chain splitter for those hyvo chains andy, its a lonnng pin eh !