Changing Clutch - What Do I Need?

I have a 1.3 super s, i cant afford to pay someone £250 to change it as i got the car for that so im going to do it myself, can someone please tell me what tools i need and what parts etc (i.e good place to buy clutch).

Will be much apprechiated, thankyou!! :D
 

C0llis0n

Ex. Club Member
Club Member
clutch from a breakers yards your best bet, if not then go for ebay.

Best to have a torque wrench on hand :p you'll need a clutch alignment tool aswell as spanners ect.

As a word of warning dont take the job as a piece of ####, it's likely that you'll need plenty of time ( a good weekend) and more info then the haynes manual. Good luck with it though.
 

Robb

Site Supporter
Agreed with the guide, my brain only works with pictures and the haynes is silly, it gives you more pictures on how to take the stock air intake off than to do the actual job! And mine's starting to shudder on the bite (early signs?) and i want to look at the fly too (and the cga is a bit different so i'd need extra help lol)!
 

jowley

Ex. Club Member
and watch out the dowel sieze like mad between gaerbox and engine, clutch from a motor factors is the best,
if its judeering its very liky the flywheel
 

Robb

Site Supporter
How do you mean likely the fly jowley? Ive just noticed it judder more when letting the clutch pedal out.
 

jowley

Ex. Club Member
if the flywheel has got a high spot it will bite slighty as ur relasing the clutch best thing is to get the flywheel checked and skimmed
 

C0llis0n

Ex. Club Member
Club Member
thats good to know for the future jowley, cheers, im pretty sure my clutch does that quite often aswell!
 
Hey, i just recently changed the clutch on my k11 1.0.
To be truely honest, it was a nightmare to do. but if you want a hand. i can try my best to give it on here
First off, get the car on axle stands, have the wheels off, (get someone to press the brakes in so u can take them off without them spinning.
then you need to remove the driveshafts,both of them, so its more bolt undoing.
once uve done that, ur gonna need a trolley jack to hold the engine up, since ur gonna have to remove a lot of bolts and the mounts, remember to drain your engine oil and transmission oil first before doing this, your battery and casing needs to come out.
the starter motor needs to come out too.
you'll then need to undo the clutch cable thats just under the battery casing.
once the bolts have been taken off, the casing just needs prising off, replace the clutch as required,
then just do all of the above in reverse.
but whatever you do, before you put the starter motor in, remove the speedo drive and place the transmission oil in (80w/90 Typically about £4 for a litre which is more than enough), then put the speedo drive back in, and then continue with putting it back together
 
Why drain the engine oil it should just be the gearbox oil.Also if you split the driveshafts by the inner cv boots/joints ie leave the inner cv joints in gearbox you will not have to drain the gearbox =it saves all the hassle and time refilling the oil via speedo drive.I hope this helps-Jon
 
wow that seem to be the hard way round heres how i do it at work.

osf wheel off

remove battery

remove air intake

remove starter

lossen all gearbox bolts at the top and remove

remove clutch cable

drain oil

pop osf driveshaft out

remove all cables underneath

pop nsf driveshaft out slighty so it isnt in gearbox

remove crank sensor

undo underneath bolts support box

on the bolts in the rubber boot that goes to the engine suport arm leave
them in the unit easier to refit then

pop the box out

remove clutch cover

remove clutch

inspect and refit new one

at work this takes approx 2/3hrs from start to finish this was done on a 98 1.3 micra but it all the same really even on the ga engines
 

frank

Club Member

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frank

Club Member
so you pull the engine out every time then? i cant see how this works if the engine is in, maybe im being daft i just cant see it

no, that was an engine change pic to show the starter and shafts etc in situ, the g/box will lower to the floor without touching the engine (enough to remove the clutch with ease)
cant find any pics tho :doh:
 
Hi sorry to but in on an old post but just about to do a clutch change on our K11. In order to do it with driveshafts in situ. is it as simple as unbolting. the bellhousing and lowering the gearbox ..sorry if that's a stupid question! Thanks in advance!
 

frank

Club Member
Hi sorry to but in on an old post but just about to do a clutch change on our K11. In order to do it with driveshafts in situ. is it as simple as unbolting. the bellhousing and lowering the gearbox ..sorry if that's a stupid question! Thanks in advance!
thats how i do it personally nelv, but i have the smaller pre-facelift 1.0 g/box and no sandwich plate between the engine and g/box :)
 
cheers for the reply Frank! i gather on the facelift model like we have you can still do it with everything in situ but you only get a 6 inch gap to change the clutch. which should be plenty? still seems easier than disconnecting everything! Do you know if the sandwich plate is a bugger to get in? Thanks!
 

frank

Club Member
i did a facelift one in the 6 inch gap no probs mate, the outer edge of the friction plate was the same dia as the outer edge of the inner pressure plate, so we just made sure they were level with each other to centralise it (there was no way of getting a centering tool in)
the sandwich plate went over the driveshaft too iirc, but it went back together fine :)
 

frank

Club Member
awesome! cheers fir the advice Frank. i shall tackle her with this method on Thursday. Least i got somewhere nice and dry to do it!
np mate :) the slam panel, battery tray and rad are easy to remove, then the access is pretty good for a FWD car :)
 
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