CG13DE timing off?

Hi all, Micra fans

I recently bought a 2000 Micra 1.3 with no maintenance history, unfortunately, and already changed and restored some stuff when time allows it.
To make a long story short, because of what I think was a misfire at low rpm when starting to move the car, I changed the spark plugs (really needed), then ignition wires but still there was that feeling so I turned to the distributor and found that it was leaking oil inside and couldn’t read some parameters to check it was fine. I decided to order a new one and while it didn’t arrived, I checked a lot of other components with a multimeter to see if their parameters match the Nissan service book / Autodata parameters.

There was some weird parameters that I may later describe but my main goal now is to install the new distributor and set the timing correctly.

I ordered a timing light also (asked for a digital one but the guy said it would not read well the Micra and the best would be a basic one, so I did).

Now, what I did:

Warmed up the engine
Stopped the engine
Hooked the timing light to cable 1 in the right direction
Disconnected the TPS
Started engine ( 2-3 min. later)
Blip the throttle 3x above 2500RPM
Let it idle (was at about 750rpm)
Checked the timing marks and it was far from 15 degrees, more like 30 BTDC
Turned the idle screw in the TB until having 600 RPM with the TPS disconnected
Checked timing again and its about the same. Turning the distributor make some change but never reach 15 degrees (maybe 20-25 degrees when retarded at maximum, can't remember exactly)

Now I’m a little lost and don’t know what should check next. Can it be a malfunctioning timing light, bad engine timing…? Have the disconnected TPS or the ICV some influence while setting the timing with the TPS disconnected?

Before checking the timing I took the ICV off to clean with carb cleaner and replace the oring. Does it need some kind of calibration to set the timing?

I also checked where the distributor rotor arm was pointing with the engine stopped but I’m a bit confused (or maybe not really want to believe there is a chain problem).

At TDC 0 (second mark from left) it is pointing cylinder 4

At TDC 15 (second mark from right) it is pointing cylinder 1.

My interpretation is: if it should be 15 degrees /600 rpm, it cant’ be 15 degrees/ 0 RPM.

What should I do next to get the correct timing?

Thanks in advance
 
Buy a cheap Nissan consult 14 pin to usb adapter and use software to lock the timing.
Warm up the engine. Set idle (650+-50 for a manual) then adjust the timing to 15+-2 degrees.

If the chain is so far gone that you cant get it to time up you'll defo hear it.
 
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I looked for software but I guess conzult (which was free, I guess) is not available anymore. Which ones are recommended?
Anyway, is it not possible to see if something is wrong with the chain just by looking at the timing marks and the rotor arm position?

The car sounds almost normal, idles nicely and revs with no problem. Just trembles a bit (like when having bad spark or coils) when starting to move.
 
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I use Nissan Datascan.
https://www.nisscan.com/NDSI/index.php

Theorethically you can check the piston TDC correlation to the camshaft lobes to see if the chain is stretched or not
Ok, thanks. I found ECUtalk too. I'll get a reader and try then.
But using the software to lock the timing is the same as disconnecting the TPS procedure, right?
And when software is reading the timing, is it reading some sensor directly from the crank or something or ECU? Because I read somewhere that we must match the software angle value and the 15 BTDC timing mark with the strobe. Am I right?
 
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I found that the markings on the pulley are not right. I checked the piston 1 TDC through the spark plug hole. It's TDC position is something like 25-30 BTDC on the pulley. When pulley shows TDC 0, the piston is already way down. Is possible that in the past someone replaced the pulley and put it back on incorrectly or it just fits one way? What can be done to solve this?
 
I found that the markings on the pulley are not right. I checked the piston 1 TDC through the spark plug hole. It's TDC position is something like 25-30 BTDC on the pulley. When pulley shows TDC 0, the piston is already way down. Is possible that in the past someone replaced the pulley and put it back on incorrectly or it just fits one way? What can be done to solve this?
They have a rubber sleeve that forms the harmonic balancer, I've heard they can move and effect timing that seems like what's happened here. Your best bet would be to get a replacement harmonic balancer either new or a replacement 2nd hand item.
 
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In the mean time, I was thinking about making temporary marks on the pulley to be able to set timing to make a few miles. Is it ok if I can do it right?
 
Yeah, probably see how long it'd take to get a replacement first, trouble is going to be marking 5 degree offsets accurately and if it's moved once it's likely to move again.
 
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I marked the pulley with a new TDC 0 when the piston was actually on top and the dizzy rotor pointing to cylinder #1 and then used the existing marks to see the difference between them and get a new TDC 15 BTDC. Strobe and dizzy rotation and I guess it's fine for a temporary "healing". I will check once in a while if it still fine. But even if it moves again, it will not affect the real relation between the crankshaft and the dizzy, right? It will just show a wrong timing which is not real.
Anyway, that little shaking/misfire is still there. I suspect maybe the harness is not delivering all the energy it should. Some time ago I checked the TPS voltage and it was wrong. After shaking the harness, it got right. And the ground was not there. I made a shunt to the engine ground point. No difference, anyway.
I must check the harness again and the engine mounts. Could be the cause of that shaking, right?
I guess the steering is very stiff too sometimes. Something is wrong with the power assistance.
 
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Buy a cheap Nissan consult 14 pin to usb adapter and use software to lock the timing.
Warm up the engine. Set idle (650+-50 for a manual) then adjust the timing to 15+-2 degrees.

If the chain is so far gone that you cant get it to time up you'll defo hear it.
Isn't the bluetooth android version available anymore, somewhere? It would be better than using a laptop.
 
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