Car won't start

Tom Messy

Ex. Club Member
Hi all,

As the title says, my '95 K11 won't start. It tries, but can never actually get the engine started - it nearly starts, but then cuts out before it can. My dad's first thoughts are plugs or HT leads, but does anyone else have any ideas? The cheaper the better!! :doh:

Cheers in advance,

Tom
 
OK cheers Frank I have just done that. The gap on at the bottom of the spark plugs is about 1mm too - isn't that a bit big? I can't find my Haynes at the moment as we're decorating, so can anyone confirm what it's meant to be?
Cheers,
Tom
 
Cheers Andy.

I've bought and fitted new plugs, rotor arm, diz cap, and HT leads but there is no difference. It still won't start. Is there anything I should look for now?

Cheers,
Tom
 
Yes. Before I changed them the spark was orangy in colour, but the new ones are much bluer which I'm told is better... But no change as to starting the engine
 
you could try a drop of fuel down the throttlebody tom, and if it runs for a few secs then injector fuse holder rusted maybe ?
 
Instead of putting it strait down the TB i usualy spray some fuel into the hole that the resonator pipe connects to the airbox so that it is soaked up by the air filter, or if you dont have a spray then remove the airbox, pour some in and replace it. that way the fuel is atomised better into the air as it passes through the filter...
 
Instead of putting it strait down the TB i usualy spray some fuel into the hole that the resonator pipe connects to the airbox so that it is soaked up by the air filter, or if you dont have a spray then remove the airbox, pour some in and replace it. that way the fuel is atomised better into the air as it passes through the filter...

last time i did that ed (a few weeks ago) mine backfired and the filter was a ball of flames lol :eek:
 
What condition is your battery in, as my micra was giving awful trouble before christmas. It was traced to a bad battery! it was sparking, but it wasnt strong enough to start the car without jump leads, then once a bit of charge built up it would run all day on its own. It lost the charge overnight, so it was same story for the next few days, until I fitted a new battery, problem solved in my case!
 
I'm new to the forum, but have constantly been reading as I had this prob mid Dec with my 99 K11. Car was turning over, just would not catch. After several days called in the "mechanic" who diagnosed coil failure and changed HT leads, spark plugs, dizzy cap,rotar arm and coil.(so he says) Car now starts. However, now the car wont run. Kangarooing, cutting out and generally really cannot drive. Took it to a second mechanic who has diagnosed dizzy as problem. Currently waiting for 2nd mechanic to fit the new dizzy. Its almost been 3 months without the car, but from what i've read there could be a prob with throttle body. Hope you have better luck.
 
Where do I find the injector fuse holder? I really need to find my Haynes but it's being evasive!

@k11micra - We tried jumping it yesterday but it didnt work :(
 
OK thanks I'l have a look, but I haven't primed it yet...

One thought... if it's the fuse box near the battery and behind the left headlight - the fuse for my left headlight has completely disintegrated and melted I noticed yesterday, and that light stopped working right before the car failed to start. Might there be a link?
 
lol!

Here's a pic of the fuse box:
IMG_4025hr3fyiw.jpg


And here's a pic of the inside:
IMG_4025hr3fyiw.jpg


The melted one is where the left-hand headlight fuse was. The injector one seems unaffected, as does the right headlight (which works) but I am hoping to get a new fusebox later today.

Tom
 
A common issue with K11s not starting is simply the ECU flooding the engine if you've had a long drive, then stopped, driven a short distance then stopped again.

Try taking out the fuel pump fuse (under the dash), keep cranking the car till it starts, then rev it until all the fuel is out and it dies, put the fuel pump fuse back in and try again.

Had this happen to both my K11 and my Primera!
 
Instead of putting it strait down the TB i usualy spray some fuel into the hole that the resonator pipe connects to the airbox so that it is soaked up by the air filter, or if you dont have a spray then remove the airbox, pour some in and replace it. that way the fuel is atomised better into the air as it passes through the filter...

I get shudders of fear when I read stuff like this!!!! That is without a doubt asking for an engine bay fire (not to mention stupid). If you ever want to put fuel in an engine, remove the plugs and squirt some into the cylinders from there. You don't cover soak or do it any other way unless you want to increase tenfold the chances of a DIY b-b-q.

Perhaps it would be wise to remind everyone that "Advice given on this site may not be from given from trained or experienced persons. And any advice given should not be relied upon or duplicated unless you know exactly what you are doing or have professional guidance. Following the examples on this site could result in personal or 3rd party injury or or even death."
 
Yes it is the fuse for the headlamp, so I'm not sure if it's the problem or not. I took the "INJ" fuse out, and nothing started at all, so I dont think the fuse box is the cause of my non-starting problem as that fuse definitely affects something. I haven't had a chance to try "feeding" it petrol yet, and I couldn't find any Micras in the two local scrap yards with any fuse boxes left. The only one I found appeared to have the same problem. So I'm still stuck here for now at least.

Tom
 
Before you try "feeding" it with very flammable petrol, try the fuel pump fuse (in the drivers footwell) as I suggested! :)

This one:
fuel..jpg
 
OK I've done that. It started for maybe 5 seconds with that fuse out but died again, so hopefully it's that it ran out of petrol, not some other problem. Now it seems the battery is too flat to do much at all, so it's on charge. Fingers crossed it might work!
 
OK I've done that. It started for maybe 5 seconds with that fuse out but died again, so hopefully it's that it ran out of petrol, not some other problem. Now it seems the battery is too flat to do much at all, so it's on charge. Fingers crossed it might work!
Sounds like it could be promising, 5 seconds is about right. On the Primera it took two goes of this, some people say to start it with the throttle wide open when the fuse is disconnected, so try that if you have no luck when the battery is charged again! :)
 
is fuel getting into the cylinders? is there fuel in the car? does the car bump start? best thing to do is take off the fuel feed pipe and put it in a bottle to see if its feeding fuel to the engine. if it is and your sure theres a spark. check the compression and if thats fine then go for battery/earths and let me know how you get on
 
James, you are a genius :) It run's now, well it does at the moment anyway!

Thanks everyone for the help and advice too :)
 
Right, well I've broken down 6 times on my 4.5 hour journey back from college, ending up on a tow rope 2 miles from the college. LOL! Fun times. And thanks go to Halfords for not helping me, when I was parked right outside their doors!

All I know at the moment is that it will jumpstart sometimes, but sometimes it only worked by pushstarting it in 2nd. But, it never ran for more than 100m at a time, before the revs dropped and there was no response to the throttle, and it cut out.

While I was being towed home, I found that in order to have any lights at all I had to be in gear (2nd or higher), and moving at a decent speed. I still had no heating, rear lights, break lights, wipers, indicators, high beams etc. I basically only had hazards and one headlight.

Does that give any more clues as to what might be the problem? It seems to me that the electrics don't work at all unless the car is moving and in gear, so might that suggest dead battery or alternator? Dad thought it might be the starter motor/solenoid but we're not sure at all.

Tom
 
fit a different battery temporary, it sounds like its not holding a charge

the car will still run even if you completely remove the battery tho eh stani :grinning: its gotta be a dodgy connection that feeds the engine electrics 12v supply imo
 
OK I charged the battery fully again last night, and it drove me approx 15 miles. Pretty much everything electrical worked, except indicators, but then they suddenly started working after I got my alternator tested. Aparrently the alternator was giving out 11.5 somethings, pretty much equal to the battery's reading. I was told the battery was fine but that it wasn't enough for the alternator so I got another one from the scrappy on the chance that it would be better than mine. The car then died on the way home. It seems it will drive for as long as the battery has charge, but will then grind to a halt.

I fitted the new alternator, but it sounds like the bearings have gone because it's making a very nasty noise! Anyway, we jump started it and I took it down the road, and it died again about a mile in. Jumped it again, and it lasted exactly the same distance, dying on my driveway.

Sooo... It's gonna have to go off to the garage tomorrow, but it definitely seems as something is stopping the battery from charging as whenever the car dies, the battery is totally flat. All fuses and fuse boxes should now be fine, and I we can't see any bad connections, but that doesn't mean to say there aren't any

Tom
 
if it happened with both alternators tom, then that fat white charge lead may not be getting through to the battery, can you check for continuity ?
 
if it happened with both alternators tom, then that fat white charge lead may not be getting through to the battery, can you check for continuity ?

Deffo sounds like the charge isn't getting back to battery, as frank suggested do a continuity test You'll maybe need to replace the charge cable!
If the alternator is charging, the voltage over the battery with the car running should be between 13.5v and 14.5v
I've also looked at Autodata for you and see no alt relay mentioned
 
I've done a continuity test, and it is all reading well. Both the battery and alternator were testing at 11.5v each yesterday, but I am taking them to an alternator specialist today to get them checked, and maybe get a refurb alt. if that is the issue.
 
Battery fuse is fine I'm afraid Stani - although the actual problem was just as simple!! Took it to have the alternator and battery tested by an alternator specialist, and it was all reading fine but obviously wasn't charging the battery. They took another look at all the connections, and found one of the fuse box plugs was dodgy, and so apparently the alternator didn't have a proper connection to the battery, hence it not charging. The plug was attached as it should be because I had checked and dismissed it, but something inside hadn't connected right. So there, I made it home from the garage without being towed which was always nice, but as always something had to go wrong - my driver's window fell out the runners! Small hitch in comparison!

But yeah, hopefully that's the running issues sorted for a while anyway, and it has loads of new electric bits and pieces which helps at the next service :)

Cheers again for the suggestions :)

Tom
 
Before you try "feeding" it with very flammable petrol, try the fuel pump fuse (in the drivers footwell) as I suggested! :)

This one:
View attachment 14836

Hi was just wondering is this the same fuse locations for a 1998 Micra Equation see post 27. Got a problem with the dashboard lights and want to rule out the fuses before pulling apart the dash. Got fuses in places where they are empty on the diagram above
 
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