Car turning over but not starting after battery disconnect

Had to disconnect the battery for a few mins, then reconnected.

Car would not even turn over, but all lights on dash coming on.

Disconnected the battery again for about 45 mins.

Car now turning over but not starting.

I've tried the following:

Use key to lock passenger door, use key to unlock passenger door, use key to turn in the ignition for 5 mins (tried to the point the dash lights come on, and to the point just before they come on)

Anyone got any other suggestions? would really appreciate any help.
 
Sounds like insufficient voltage to both turn the engine over and start it. My guess is a dodgy battery connection, do the clamps, cables and vehicle connections look in good order? A long shot is a failing battery, get your multi meter out and check voltages and resistances throughout.
 
The battery is 2 years old and looks great, the live connector on the car looks like it has some cream sludge on it
Definitely clean up all connectors as suggested. A poor connection may have allowed enough current to pass for dash lights but not the starter. Reconnecting may have given a good enough connection. Charge the battery just in case.
As the problem happened after replacing the sensor I would then check all the connectors you may have disturbed, and then put the original sensor back on to rule out a fault with the new one.
Good luck
Joe
 
Definitely clean up all connectors as suggested. A poor connection may have allowed enough current to pass for dash lights but not the starter. Reconnecting may have given a good enough connection. Charge the battery just in case.
As the problem happened after replacing the sensor I would then check all the connectors you may have disturbed, and then put the original sensor back on to rule out a fault with the new one.
Good luck
Joe
Thanks Joe, I ended up putting the old sensor back in and it started.
 
why question fitting a new one that did not start, over fitting the original one again for it to start.
a very high percentage on all brands need coded in.
put in the new one and watch the rev counter as you crank it. if it stays at the bottom it needs coded/paired.
if it lifts to 300rpm as you crank, you have a different problem. (guess- ya need it plugged in)
a ignition key for a quasqui can be coded with key turns and magic pedal puses of the tube chanel, yet a micra k12 needs the key coded.
they're just wee buggers.
ps, i'm a 35yrs experience lorry mechanic thats worked on a lot of chit from strimmers to bentleys and excavators over my life(now 54) i'm having a guess best i can with the information given to me.
i'm not making a claim of being a keyboard mechanic, because 99% of them come back with "i got it fixed, you were wrong", difference is, i dont care # hope you get sorted
 
It wasn't a criticism or a question of your ability and knowledge, I was simply saying I had seen no mention of it anywhere else, and wanted to be sure I didn't have a new sensor which was a dud. Thanks for your help.
 
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