can you fit a turbo to this?
- Thread starter blister
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Paul Smith
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With som eplaying the bodies should go on and there should be no reason why they wouldn't work with a turbo, as for the weakest point that will depend on individual engines and abuse. Also the amount of boost from the turbo. In my experience the piston rings are the common fault that occurs. You can run a standard block but i would not suggest more than 6 psi although it is known to run up to 10 psi. 5 should be fairly safe. A decompression plate can be used to use a higher amount of boost but how much will depend on the compression ratio, the engine tends to run hotter with the plate. Or you can spend alot with low comp pistons and go down that route. The most important part I would say is map the car when its done don't leave it because it runs ok, that ends to be a common mistake and although you may well be fine more often than not problems will occur.
plan with the throttle bodies is to use samco hoses and jubilee clips, whilst retaining the TPS and connecting this upto a megajolt unit so i can hopefully get rid of all of the micra engine wiring (except sensor etc)
engine i am chosing to use is the cg13 but what sort of thickness decompression plate is usually required?
in the future i will hopefully upgrade to fuel injected bike throttle bodies but that is more then likely when i go with megasquirt
is there a limit with power gearbox wise? say 150bhp / xx lbs torque and they go caplunk?
engine i am chosing to use is the cg13 but what sort of thickness decompression plate is usually required?
in the future i will hopefully upgrade to fuel injected bike throttle bodies but that is more then likely when i go with megasquirt
is there a limit with power gearbox wise? say 150bhp / xx lbs torque and they go caplunk?
Weakest point is the clutch for the 1.3 but there are stronger options out there, as for turboing bike carbs it's a fairly simple job (doesn't look it but it is 
) have a read of this and it starts to make sense
I do have some more reading material on my laptop so I'll post it up for you when I get a chance
) have a read of this and it starts to make senseI do have some more reading material on my laptop so I'll post it up for you when I get a chance
pollyp
Club Member
gr8 link karl
i'm running bout 160bhp on stock engine at 10psi with upgraded pump, injector & rail, MAF, intercooler, recently upgraded k11 thicker 25mm auto radiator, LSD, JUN ultralight fly and (was) 180mm helix 3-paddle clutch (cos it was the only direct fit on the flywheel that could take the 160ftlb)
and the weakest link i found so far is the clutch and stock thin 16mm radiator.
the 3 paddle clutch on the thin flywheel was able to initially withstand the 160ftlb for a few months but not the repeated abuse from trackdays & one dragstrip cos it overheated very easily and possibly glazed and began to slip badly above 4k bout 125ftlb. i'm in middle of upgrading it to a 200mm organic helix clutch on a stock flywheel before oulton park.
with this much power, if you goto trackdays, heat is a major issue. the stock thin 16mm radiator will only withstand 2-3 laps (3-4laps with heater & fan on full) when running a constant 10psi at WOT on a hot day. public road driving is no prob cos ur never pushing the cooling system.
i've now fitted a thicker 25mm rad thats for an auto k11 and will see if it works soon. for anyone turbo'ing but don't wanna fork £600 for a custom alloy rad yet, i'd highly recommend this as a first try cos its a real cheap easy direct fit that'll at least raise ur cooling capacity by 56%
if mine still overheats i'll have to consider an oil cooler and worst case is spend another £600 on a custom rad (or just live with the limited amount of lap runs which is free)
i'm running bout 160bhp on stock engine at 10psi with upgraded pump, injector & rail, MAF, intercooler, recently upgraded k11 thicker 25mm auto radiator, LSD, JUN ultralight fly and (was) 180mm helix 3-paddle clutch (cos it was the only direct fit on the flywheel that could take the 160ftlb)
and the weakest link i found so far is the clutch and stock thin 16mm radiator.
the 3 paddle clutch on the thin flywheel was able to initially withstand the 160ftlb for a few months but not the repeated abuse from trackdays & one dragstrip cos it overheated very easily and possibly glazed and began to slip badly above 4k bout 125ftlb. i'm in middle of upgrading it to a 200mm organic helix clutch on a stock flywheel before oulton park.
with this much power, if you goto trackdays, heat is a major issue. the stock thin 16mm radiator will only withstand 2-3 laps (3-4laps with heater & fan on full) when running a constant 10psi at WOT on a hot day. public road driving is no prob cos ur never pushing the cooling system.
i've now fitted a thicker 25mm rad thats for an auto k11 and will see if it works soon. for anyone turbo'ing but don't wanna fork £600 for a custom alloy rad yet, i'd highly recommend this as a first try cos its a real cheap easy direct fit that'll at least raise ur cooling capacity by 56%
if mine still overheats i'll have to consider an oil cooler and worst case is spend another £600 on a custom rad (or just live with the limited amount of lap runs which is free)
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