BC Suspension - Rear setup?

[Vulture20]

Hi Folks

The car build is going well, should be ready for pics in the next week or so. I'm looking for some advice from anyone who has fitted and used the BC Suspension kit.

On the rear I am not happy with the fit. Specifically I have two issues:

1. The original dampers were removed by someone else, so I am not sure of the bumpstop - washer - bush sequence. Can someone give me a definitive part sequence? I am getting clunks & rattles so I think it's not right.

2. The rear coils. While they sit nicely on the billet that is bolted to the bottom cup, the top doesn't seem to locate at all. If you jack the car the springs fall sideways and I'm not sure they are held properly when cornering hard. Anyone sorted this, or not found it?

All help appreciated, specifically from folk who have used this kit in anger!

Thanks
Jools

 

[Low Rider]

Providing the damper travel keeps the springs captive it should be ok. While I don't like these aftermarket setups it does seem to be the way many kits are done, so it's pretty proven. There's also some rally school who sell coilover kits on ebay which look like BC kits with the same rear spring setups. If they can get away with it on a rally stage then anything on tarmac should be fine.

I think there are a few people on here with BC / MeisterR who will comment

 

[pollyp]

check my blog page 32 post 1571 for details on how to setup and balance the BC V1 coilovers

http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/35251-PollyMobiles-Rebuild/page32

in summary:
-try to sit the car on a flat level ground
-place chassis on stands
-remove the front/rear springs
-set the top camber mount eually (mines bout 25mm from the damper knob to the lip edge)
-set the front bumpstop point by adjusting the lower ring (equally L/R) till the tyre just misses the arch when the damper hits the bumpstop as u raise the wheel with a jack underneath with the steering at full lock
-set the rear bumpstop by adjusting the damper-lower mount length (equally L/R) till the rear tyre just misses the arch or the axle hits anything when it hits the bumpstop ass u raise the rear axle beam
-fit front spring with 0 preload. fit rear spring set at 3/4 high (beware of stretching brake hoses when lowering the rear axle to fit spring)
-rest car on its wheels. measure the wheel rim to arch distance. adjust the spring preload ring (equally L/R) till u reach ur ideal ride height
-adjust ur panhard rod till the rear axles centered
-align ur camber, steering and toe

 

[Vulture20]

Brilliant info - thanks.

Basic question - in the pics where you are changing the new rear bumpstop for the original: What is the sequence of parts? There is a metal washer that sits on a shoulder on the piston. Is that below the bumpstop?

If (from the damper body upwards) I have the sequence ... Bumpstop, washer, (through body turret), top bush, washer, nut... there is too much thread on the piston to be taken up.

If (from the damper body upwards) I have the sequence ... washer, Bumpstop (supplied with kit), (through body turret), top bush, washer, nut... there is not enough thread showing to get the nut on.

What am I doing wrong?

Ta

Jools

 

[pollyp]

the rear damper should be:

-little yellow bumpstop on the shaft
-optional, i put a red ziptie just on the end of the shaft just below the step, see blog pic, the tie will catch on the hole of the cover so that the dust boot doesn't just drop and expose the shaft to muck.
-slide dust boot over bumpstop, push the bumpstop through so its right at the top of the boot, ziptie the boot to the damper body so it doesn't get pull up and unseat, exposing the damper seal
-washer on the stepped shaft
-that metal cup with rubber cusion on top from the stock damper
-insert through the chassis hole
-top rubber donut cusion
-metal cup over the rubber
-nylon locknut
-tighten down nut till they equally have bout 5mm thread exposed

 

[pollyp]

btw with the upcoming winter i'd recommend thinking bout making coilover covers like mine to protect the threads from the harsh elements