Battery relocation

goldstar0011

goldstar0011

Ex. Club Member
Thinking about doing this to make use of the spare wheel well.

1) The batteries negative just connects to the chassis?
2) Whats the best wire thickness to use, I have a 1100watt amp wire (it's stupidly thick), this is connected to the positve already, I could just connect the end thats in the boot to the battery?
3) Is it that simple, have I missed anything?
 
Why do you want to relocate the battery? It might be better to run a split charge system........

And what amp are you running/wire? I'm guessing 4awg?
 
goldstar0011 said:
Thinking about doing this to make use of the spare wheel well.

1) The batteries negative just connects to the chassis?
2) Whats the best wire thickness to use, I have a 1100watt amp wire (it's stupidly thick), this is connected to the positve already, I could just connect the end thats in the boot to the battery?
3) Is it that simple, have I missed anything?
Click to expand...

i'm putting the battery in the 1.6 just behind the front seats to balance the car better :)

i am going to run the earth straight to bare metal.
i have 6 guage i think? i got it from the scrappy out of a big pile of off cuts ;) its about 1 cm diameter if that helps. that should be enough. really what you want to do is match or better the width of the wire going from the battery to the starter motor. that is the thickest wire in the car unless your Retepetsir then most wires will go to the sould system :p

you will need to mount the battery VERY well, i'm bolting it to the car floor using an old battery tray from a scrappy.

also think about the gasses that batties give off. they are poisonus and flamable... should be ok in the boot tho,

Think about getting access to it if you have to jump the car.

also i'd recommend an isolator switch on the battery because it's quite dangerous running a live wire straight from the battery down the full length of the car without a fuse etc. think what would happen if a bit of the insulation got damaged and made contact with the body of the car? you'd have one hell of an in car heater :D

i think thats everything,

if i fit mine first i'll let you know how it goes, and if you fit yours first let me know how it goes :D
 
Cheers Bud

26.DSCF0520.JPG

That look big enough?

What would you recommend to isolate it then?
This is the fuse I use

Was planning a hatch to get to the battery should I need to but the false floor comes out easy.
 
NeX said:
i'm putting the battery in the 1.6 just behind the front seats to balance the car better :)

i am going to run the earth straight to bare metal.
i have 6 guage i think? i got it from the scrappy out of a big pile of off cuts ;) its about 1 cm diameter if that helps. that should be enough. really what you want to do is match or better the width of the wire going from the battery to the starter motor. that is the thickest wire in the car unless your Retepetsir then most wires will go to the sould system :p

you will need to mount the battery VERY well, i'm bolting it to the car floor using an old battery tray from a scrappy.

also think about the gasses that batties give off. they are poisonus and flamable... should be ok in the boot tho,

Think about getting access to it if you have to jump the car.

also i'd recommend an isolator switch on the battery because it's quite dangerous running a live wire straight from the battery down the full length of the car without a fuse etc. think what would happen if a bit of the insulation got damaged and made contact with the body of the car? you'd have one hell of an in car heater :D

i think thats everything,

if i fit mine first i'll let you know how it goes, and if you fit yours first let me know how it goes :D
Click to expand...

Run thicker than 6awg, go for 4awg. Remember its running another couple of meters over what it used to.....

Also, make sure you fuse it near the battery. Also, with normal car batteries you need to vent it to the atmosphere, so unless you run a sealed gel type/yellow top then I'm not sure how you'd do this (the gasses need to be able to escape). Yes, an isolator,circuit breaker is a good idea.

Edit: Just read all of your post Nex, lol.

And about the wire thickness, yup, my 4awg is probably the thickest in the whole car. I'm upgrading to 0awg in the near future, good for 2-3kwrms and around 2.5cm diameter, just a ##### to run down the car :doh:

:)
 
Retepetsir said:
Run thicker than 6awg, go for 4awg. Remember its running another couple of meters over what it used to.....

Also, make sure you fuse it near the battery. Also, with normal car batteries you need to vent it to the atmosphere, so unless you run a sealed gel type/yellow top then I'm not sure how you'd do this (the gasses need to be able to escape). Yes, an isolator,circuit breaker is a good idea.

Edit: Just read all of your post Nex, lol.

And about the wire thickness, yup, my 4awg is probably the thickest in the whole car. I'm upgrading to 0awg in the near future, good for 2-3kwrms and around 2.5cm diameter, just a ##### to run down the car :doh:

:)
Click to expand...


cool, well i just double checked and it is 6 AWG, but it didn't cost me anything so thats ok :) where do you get your wire from Retepetsir?

OMG!!! 0AWG!!! you can't hide that kind of wire, your gonna have to just run it over the carpet lol,

i bet it ain't that flexable either...

Goldstar, Id get a bigger fuse than that an put it right next to the battery, also as Retepetsir mentioned because your running about 5 meters of battery wire you will probably need to go thicker than that...
 
i use 4Gauge for my Bass Amp and thats big. 0 Gauge will fit but will be hard. You will have to run it down the centre of the car i think.
 
I'm not sure where I'll get the 0awg from. If I need more distribution blocks, etc, I'll buy the Car Audio Direct package for around £60.

If not, I'll use welding cable (very flexible) which is VERY cheap and available from John Davies welding supplies (google for their website). Might be worth looking at for your project?

Otherwise I might end up just running 2awg instead :)

That cable looks like 4awg to me, which should be fine :)

Andy_S said:
i use 4Gauge for my Bass Amp and thats big. 0 Gauge will fit but will be hard. You will have to run it down the centre of the car i think.
Click to expand...

No I wont, trust me ;)

I've fitted it to a few cars before :)

I'm looking at over 2kwrms soon, so I'll need to upgrade anyway!!!
 
could you run some ducting from the pollen filter thing in the boot into the footwell to give some air flow
 
Retepetsir said:
I'm not sure where I'll get the 0awg from. If I need more distribution blocks, etc, I'll buy the Car Audio Direct package for around £60.

If not, I'll use welding cable (very flexible) which is VERY cheap and available from John Davies welding supplies (google for their website). Might be worth looking at for your project?

Otherwise I might end up just running 2awg instead :)

That cable looks like 4awg to me, which should be fine :)



No I wont, trust me ;)

I've fitted it to a few cars before :)

I'm looking at over 2kwrms soon, so I'll need to upgrade anyway!!!
Click to expand...


Could you run multiple 6 AWG? two down each side of the car and audio down the centre? that's kinda what i've done :)

or possibly running a solid bar of metal under the car that hangs from plastic clips? might corrode though but it would be more than enough...
 
I had 2awg and you couldnt measure any loss at over 200amps going through it so I wouldnt worry Peter.

Be warned that car batteries vent hydrogen. and they CAN explode. Trust me I have seen it happen and its not pretty, just ask my dad lol. So you should at least change the battery to a type that you can vent to outside the car.
 
Ed said:
I had 2awg and you couldnt measure any loss at over 200amps going through it so I wouldnt worry Peter.

Be warned that car batteries vent hydrogen. and they CAN explode. Trust me I have seen it happen and its not pretty, just ask my dad lol. So you should at least change the battery to a type that you can vent to outside the car.
Click to expand...

agreed, get one with a vent pipe and run it through the grommit in the bottom of the spare wheel recess.

or like Pete said get a solid state / gell battery either way, make sure you don't have loose hydrogen floating round your car!
 
Ed said:
I had 2awg and you couldnt measure any loss at over 200amps going through it so I wouldnt worry Peter.

Be warned that car batteries vent hydrogen. and they CAN explode. Trust me I have seen it happen and its not pretty, just ask my dad lol. So you should at least change the battery to a type that you can vent to outside the car.
Click to expand...

The problem is, I'm looking at running Class AB with a possible current draw of 350amps+ :wow:

I'll be running more batteries anyway though. Thr 0awg isnt any more expensive than 2awg, so I might as well go for it!

:)
 
Retepetsir said:
The problem is, I'm looking at running Class AB with a possible current draw of 350amps+ :wow:

I'll be running more batteries anyway though. Thr 0awg isnt any more expensive than 2awg, so I might as well go for it!

:)
Click to expand...

350AMPS!!! thats more power than my house!!

surly you are gonna have to start thinking about engine performance just to generate that kind of power! tripple altinator :D
 
NeX said:
350AMPS!!! thats more power than my house!!

surly you are gonna have to start thinking about engine performance just to generate that kind of power! tripple altinator :D
Click to expand...

Hopefully it'll never reach that amount :suspect:

Remember its at 12-14v, so you need the current in order to get the power. Class D amps would be more efficient, but I'm after proper SQ sub bass this time :)

I'd also be looking at a custom wound 200amp alternator.
 
Retepetsir said:
Hopefully it'll never reach that amount :suspect:

Remember its at 12-14v, so you need the current in order to get the power. Class D amps would be more efficient, but I'm after proper SQ sub bass this time :)

I'd also be looking at a custom wound 200amp alternator.
Click to expand...

oooh :) BTW i don't suppose you know where you can get custom Alts made up do you?
 
heres how i relocated the batter in dusks old wide arch k11...

4 gauge cable, modified original battery tray, a 'breaker' in the engine bay and another near the battery in the spare wheel well...

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NeX said:
oooh :) BTW i don't suppose you know where you can get custom Alts made up do you?
Click to expand...

I know a place that rewinds them for you (i.e. more amps in the same sized casing), but they are expensive. You really shouldnt need one tbh, I'm only going for one as I might be entering some competitions soon :)
 
Retepetsir said:
I know a place that rewinds them for you (i.e. more amps in the same sized casing), but they are expensive. You really shouldnt need one tbh, I'm only going for one as I might be entering some competitions soon :)
Click to expand...

its not so much the amps, i want someone to custom make me a really small Alt...
 
my battery is now in the boot of the 1.6 and fully working :D will have to get some pics up soon ;)
 
goldstar0011 said:
excellent!
Nex - do you actually work or just work on your cars?
Click to expand...


lol well i think my boss would say i work on my cars :) i'm always scribbling ideas on post-its and sneeking out to the carpark to bodge something :D
 
goldstar0011 said:
blast from the past! Splank to the rescue!

how do you set up the vent to work?
Click to expand...

indeedy!!! sorry for late reply but for some reason i dont have email reply function enabled on my account

the vent... most batteries i have seen have been vented but didnt have a place to put a vent pipe - however the one thats now sitting in my boot that I aquired from a guy at JAE last year did have a connector that i could attatch the vent pipe to. Some will do as some are standard fit in a boot - IE some BMWs for example.. It should be blatently obvious if it does have this connector.

so this may mean you will require a new battery - in which case get a sealed battery - saves a lot of hastle!
 

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