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Battery Drain

Hello,

I just purchased my first Nissan. Unfortunately, the new battery keeps draining.

It's been tested and the battery is in good health.

I've had a trickle charger on it till it's full.

But now it's dead again. (3 days later)

There's nothing on in the car, except immobilizer. Can't see anything that could be draining it.

The radio doesn't come on unless the ignition is on. Is that unusual? Could something be going on there?

Has anyone else experienced this? Did you find an fix?

Thanks.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Hello,

I just purchased my first Nissan. Unfortunately, the new battery keeps draining.

It's been tested and the battery is in good health.

I've had a trickle charger on it till it's full.

But now it's dead again. (3 days later)

There's nothing on in the car, except immobilizer. Can't see anything that could be draining it.

The radio doesn't come on unless the ignition is on. Is that unusual? Could something be going on there?

Has anyone else experienced this? Did you find an fix?

Thanks.
Well the radio isn't supposed to come on till the key is in either the ignition on, engine running or in the accessory position, first click when turning the key. Numerous things might be causing the drain but the first thing to check is the light in the boot, which if remaining on with the tailgate closed, would probably drain the battery in 3 days.......
 

St0rm91

Club Member
The radio doesn't come on unless the ignition is on. Is that unusual? Could something be going on there?
Thats how it should be or else it would be a constant battery drain.

If the battery has been checked then my three guesses would be an excessive parasitic drain (something is drawing power that shouldn't be), bad charging loop or possibly a defective alternator.

As John said, start by checking lights.
 
OP
OP
Skemoth
Thanks for the replies.

Theres no lights on when I leave the car, I've looked round all of them.

I'm hoping it's a drain that I can find myself with a multimeter. Fingers crossed. Is there anything that it typically is?

If it's an alternator issue, would there be other symptoms. What should I look for?
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Thanks for the replies.

Theres no lights on when I leave the car, I've looked round all of them.

I'm hoping it's a drain that I can find myself with a multimeter. Fingers crossed. Is there anything that it typically is?

If it's an alternator issue, would there be other symptoms. What should I look for?
But have you checked that the light in the boot goes out with the tailgate closed and the ignition off? Easily done by crawling into the back seat and lifting the parcel shelf to see.......
 

St0rm91

Club Member
But have you checked that the light in the boot goes out with the tailgate closed and the ignition off? Easily done by crawling into the back seat and lifting the parcel shelf to see.......
If you have a child you can put them in instead.
 

St0rm91

Club Member
Thanks for the replies.

Theres no lights on when I leave the car, I've looked round all of them.

I'm hoping it's a drain that I can find myself with a multimeter. Fingers crossed. Is there anything that it typically is?

If it's an alternator issue, would there be other symptoms. What should I look for?
I'm assuming you've checked all dash lights and signs of unusual noises so for alternator issues it would either be down to it not charging or under charging imo.

No charge can result from a blown fuse, a wire break, a slack belt or a damaged diode on the alternator.

An alternator thats under charging is generally down to a slack belt or poor connection.


An overloaded alternator is scrap and would need replaced in either of these instances.
 
Squeezing a sprog into the glove box or boot may not be advisable?

Removing the lamps ( bulbs) from the boot & glove box is the surest way of confirming that they are not remaining permanently or intermittently illuminated.

Having just purchased the vehicle, the dealer is legally liable to diagnose & repair any pre-existing & subsequent faults.

Happy fault finding (y)
 
Hi there.

I have the same issue. It's a 2003 Nissan micra (K12). Parked up on Friday and by Monday the battery is dead. The battery is new, so nothing wrong there. I gave it to Nissan, who couldn't discover the drain after 4 days and gave me the car back. I've just had it in with an auto-electrician over the weekend. He has replaced the ignition switch, but I'm quite dubious the drain has been fixed. It is a complete pita! Good luck finding it. :)
 
Hi there.

I have the same issue. It's a 2003 Nissan micra (K12). Parked up on Friday and by Monday the battery is dead. The battery is new, so nothing wrong there. I gave it to Nissan, who couldn't discover the drain after 4 days and gave me the car back. I've just had it in with an auto-electrician over the weekend. He has replaced the ignition switch, but I'm quite dubious the drain has been fixed. It is a complete pita! Good luck finding it. :)
Micra k12 1.2 - Micra battery drain problem

This issue is one of the many common problems with the K12 Micra.

This one often relates to the BCM (Body Control Module) & its interaction with the immobiliser & ECU.

The auto electrician would most likely have tested for this?

Should the issue recur, remove immobiliser fuse,( possibly No 7 ) to isolate it when parked up.

Make certain to remove only the correct fuse, (refer to Haynes workshop manual). Removing the wrong fuse risks isolating radio/cd unintentionally & losing its security code.

References:

https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/121597/micra-k12-1-2--

https://www.google.com/search?q=Battery+Drain;+K12+Micra&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b

Good will hunting. (y)
 
Micra k12 1.2 - Micra battery drain problem

This issue is one of the many common problems with the K12 Micra.

This one often relates to the BCM (Body Control Module) & its interaction with the immobiliser & ECU.

The auto electrician would most likely have tested for this?

Should the issue recur, remove immobiliser fuse,( possibly No 7 ) to isolate it when parked up.

Make certain to remove only the correct fuse, (refer to Haynes workshop manual). Removing the wrong fuse risks isolating radio/cd unintentionally & losing its security code.

References:

https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/121597/micra-k12-1-2--

https://www.google.com/search?q=Battery+Drain;+K12+Micra&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b

Good will hunting. (y)
 
plmval,

So if I am understanding correctly, this is a common gremlin... I have tried everything, my alternator is fine, my battery is 3 months old (the last one didn't even last 18 months, but the problem was only intermittent then) Last night I even left the car unlocked but battery didn't even hold a charge for 10 hours after driving it for an hour after the last jump start. I have put copper grease on the terminals which worked for a week and I feel like I am going insane. I would sell the car but cannot manage without it and a trade in is not even an option financially.
 
Have you measured the current drain with everything off and all doors closed. Disconnect the battery and reconnect through an ammeter. Should be around 25 mA if more, then there is a problem. Try removing fuses one at a time and see which if any maybe reduce the drain.
I had one hard to track down but it was caused by an incorrectly connected radio, there should only be one permanent live feed to maintain the station memory.
 
Battery drain consistently means the car has a parasitic draw condition and there is little to reason based on that information to assume the ecu or bcm is at fault... finding one or two hits on google doesn’t make a common issue!

Most common cause of a parasitic draw is faulty wire someone or something plugged into the obd port... check the load on the battery it’s key off and car locked with bonnet open...
 
That's the one I'm gonna do just got some clamps the other day.
Probably will happen tomorrow as its frosty again tonight.

edit - was fine this morning.
 
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