Anyone know the height of the main cap girdle?

Looking at the possibility of fitting a Micra engine on top of a mini gearbox, to avoid fitment issues and gear ratio mismatch from putting the engine/gearbox in complete.
Does anyone know the height of the main cap girdle from the bottom of the block? I'm assuming the cg10 and cg13 would be the same.
Overall height of the engine from bottom of block to top of cam covers would be useful too

Thanks
Tom
 

pollyp

Club Member
lower engine measurement.jpg
 
Can't answer your questions directly but may I ask what your plan is? I'm guessing you have a classic mini and want to fit a K11 engine.
Yep, classic mini van
Haven't got an engine, and price of them is a bit steep considering the lack of power and fuel economy, and whatever I might buy may need a rebuild
Thought I might try this route to avoid having to chop the front subframe, and mess around with other little bits
 
I know of one guy who fitted the cg13de head to the mini block but from what he said it was alot of work and more of an engineering exercise, easier to do the BMW K1100 head as it's a more of a well trodden path.
I have a cg13de in my mini, yes the subframe needs modifying but if careful that's about as far as the mods need to go.
The cg13de and gearbox is very good in a mini, if you were to put it on top of the mini gearbox I think the mini box and 4 speeds would be what you might want to change next.
 
I know of one guy who fitted the cg13de head to the mini block but from what he said it was alot of work and more of an engineering exercise, easier to do the BMW K1100 head as it's a more of a well trodden path.
I have a cg13de in my mini, yes the subframe needs modifying but if careful that's about as far as the mods need to go.
The cg13de and gearbox is very good in a mini, if you were to put it on top of the mini gearbox I think the mini box and 4 speeds would be what you might want to change next.
Yeah, been having a measure up today and think its a bit too tight to work anyway, only got 82mm of clearance above reverse gear, and would need to machine away a fair bit of the centre gearbox web to clear, and that's before trying to get clearance for the main cap nuts
The main reason I was trying to avoid putting the whole engine/gearbox in was because I heard the ratios weren't quite right, is that right? or is it not noticeable
 
The main reason I was trying to avoid putting the whole engine/gearbox in was because I heard the ratios weren't quite right, is that right? or is it not noticeable
I used to think the same I even went down the rabbit hole of looking for old Pulsar/ Almera etc gearboxes to find a better diff ratio, there was an extremely rare diesel engine with the ratio I was looking for but I never found one. About 3500 at 100km/hr and I think 3700 at 110km/hr, but the cg13de is totally happy there, doesn't seem loud or coarse or like it needs another gear. 1st isn't all that useful but not really an issue. With 5 gears it's better than the mini box in every way.
 
Yep, classic mini van
Haven't got an engine, and price of them is a bit steep considering the lack of power and fuel economy, and whatever I might buy may need a rebuild
Thought I might try this route to avoid having to chop the front subframe, and mess around with other little bits
As lots of other people are starting to point out there are easier solutions to your dilemma. To add my own limited experience the mini transverse gearbox is the weakest point in the whole mini concept. Issigonis was forced by Leonard Lord, chief executive, to use a four cylinder BMC 'A' series engine instead of his desired two pot. In order to get the engine into the limited space they put the gearbox under the motor and they shared the same oil, a fatal compromise. The gearbox architecture, including the drop gears linking the crankshaft to the 1st motion shaft, is all shades of wrong. If you try putting any sort of real power through it then it will grenade, been there, done that.
 
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