Anyone has idea why radiator pipes have changed shape?

funky2nite

funky2nite

Ex. Club Member
I've noticed recently that the radiator return pipe has shrunk, also a similar pipe that runs into the cabin also seems to have shrunk behind the battery. hope can be seen in images. anyone has any clue? also if these pipes need replacement, any specific size and name of such pipes?

20140407_074309_zps8188e3f1.jpg

the above picture shows the pipe coming from the bottom of the radiator into the engine


20140407_074334_zps2a7e8def.jpg

the above picture is not so clear but the thickest pipe running into the cabin has shrunk also noticeably. IT's not seen clear due to the plastic connector with the pink wirerunning into it at the left bottom corner of the image.

any clues why this happened?

car's a prefacelift k11 '95 1.0L 5dr , also temperature has never gone past 'medium' range. Never ever had any issues with temperature or heat. but still that shouldn't overrule the fact that these pipes have shrunk.

Thanks guys,
Ian - Malta
 
pollyp said:
Blocked radiator flow?
Click to expand...
How Would I know mate? I presume I can unbolt the pipe from the bottom of the rad and see what comes out, and a refill after. but possibly is the micra that solid that with a blockage no sign of overheating? if so, another solid proof of bullet proof engine!
 
Surely there must be some kind of blockage somewhere in your system.You could try flushing everything(meaning every pipe and radiator) and see what comes out..probably something has built up..
 
open your rad cap to relieve the vacuum pressure, allowing the system to equalise in ambient air, make sure the hoses fo flex back out, brim the rad with coolant, close rad cap, go for a drive and reassess if those hoses have continued to be sucked inwards again.

a restricted rad causes a hydraulic pressure difference on each side. the high pressure feed from the block/thermostat end is trying for "push" coolant through the rad while the waterpump return side is trying to "suck" the coolant back. since not much coolant is allowed to return back to the pump, the softer rubber hose begins to deflate instead.

to test the rad. unplug the upper & lower rad hose, stick a garden hose full flow at the top hose port and see if it either flows out the bottom quickly (no resistance), or if it just trickles slowly out the bottom and also eventually overflows out the top hose port (highly restricted).

if the rad was blocked, the engine would eventually overheat (assuming your temp gauge sensor was working correctly)

another cause could be both a stuck rad cap and blown HG sucking/burning coolant. when the engine cools and coolant volume shrinks, the rad cap should allow excess coolant from the expansion tank to flow back into the system to replace the lost fluid.
if the engine is both consuming coolant and not allowing extra coolant back into the system, then it'll cause a vacuum.
check if the exhaust is smoking white or if the oil is going milky
 
funky2nite said:
thanks man for the heads up, flushing can't be done DIY, am I right? what do you mean bypassing thermostat, I'm aware the car has one but have no clue where it's at.
Click to expand...

disconnect rad hoses, remove thermostat valve then reinstall the thermostat cover, then simply flush a garden hose into the top hose-engine block-out the bottom hose till the waters clear
 
pollyp said:
open your rad cap to relieve the vacuum pressure, allowing the system to equalise in ambient air, make sure the hoses fo flex back out, brim the rad with coolant, close rad cap, go for a drive and reassess if those hoses have continued to be sucked inwards again.

a restricted rad causes a hydraulic pressure difference on each side. the high pressure feed from the block/thermostat end is trying for "push" coolant through the rad while the waterpump return side is trying to "suck" the coolant back. since not much coolant is allowed to return back to the pump, the softer rubber hose begins to deflate instead.

to test the rad. unplug the upper & lower rad hose, stick a garden hose full flow at the top hose port and see if it either flows out the bottom quickly (no resistance), or if it just trickles slowly out the bottom and also eventually overflows out the top hose port (highly restricted).

if the rad was blocked, the engine would eventually overheat (assuming your temp gauge sensor was working correctly)

another cause could be both a stuck rad cap and blown HG sucking/burning coolant. when the engine cools and coolant volume shrinks, the rad cap should allow excess coolant from the expansion tank to flow back into the system to replace the lost fluid.
if the engine is both consuming coolant and not allowing extra coolant back into the system, then it'll cause a vacuum.
check if the exhaust is smoking white or if the oil is going milky
Click to expand...

Wow man that's some detailedi nfo right there as always mate! much obliged! will go through it tomorrow or if not the weekend.

A quick update, yesterday after I drove a substantial trip back home I rechecked the hoses and they both ( the one running into the cabin and the one running from the bottom of the rad to the engine block) seemed noticabbly less shrunk. The overflow container or what's it called was empty. infact I topped it up with tap water there and then.

This morning I checked the rad cap opened it up and found the below:

20140409_074402_zps79f55f2c.jpg

20140409_074432_zps160e2260.jpg


I''ll flush the damn rad with a garden hose and see what comes out the bottom. I'm concerned if the rust fragments might have flown the bottom of the rad into the system? can that be flushed too?
 
funky2nite said:
A quick update, yesterday after I drove a substantial trip back home I rechecked the hoses and they both ( the one running into the cabin and the one running from the bottom of the rad to the engine block) seemed noticabbly less shrunk.
Click to expand...
nothing to worry about then ian, and get some (rust inhibiting) antifreeze in there !
 
Blimey I thought mine was bad I overhauled the system... 2nd hand rad but was practically brand new, new thermostat and hoses to rad and a new water pump.
 
jeez christ look at all that muck:eek:

as tom said above, I thought his "radweld" blocked overheated engine at JAE show was bad, yours look like a very bad case of rust and radweld.

just look at the rad cap. all that thick mud is caked over the vacuum relief valve in the centre so no wonder it's causing a vacuum and buckling the soft hoses during cooldown.
won't be surprised if the rad, thermostat, narrow water jackets and heater matrix are also clogged and eventually cause overheating.

purely guessing it could've:
- had gas bubbles in the cooling (blown HG or external coolant leak) till not enough fluid was left
- lack of antifreeze in fluid (diluted or lack of service or user just poured straight water)
- both will cause the steel return pipe to rust, flake off, block galleys and possibly overheat
- user might have also used radweld to bandage a leak but will cause a bigger issue like microPros blocked water jacket

the whole system needs a thorough complete flush/clean and then assess the cause.

so as metioned before, remove hoses & thermostat and fully flush the cooling system and radiator both ways with garden hose till its clear,
test if rad is blocked
clean/test/replace thermostat
clean/replace rad cap
clean/rinse expansion tank
refill & bleed system with fresh coolant

check if coolant sensors within spec,
check for water leaks, smoking exhaust, bubbling expansion tank
 
Guys you're amazing! I still have to go through pollyps instructions carefully. but have just flushed the radiator as insttructed and here's a quick video for anyone in the future thinking of doing it.. I know it's nothing too difficult but it helps guys like me! thankyou all guys!
 
pollyp said:
jeez christ look at all that muck:eek:

as tom said above, I thought his "radweld" blocked overheated engine at JAE show was bad, yours look like a very bad case of rust and radweld.

just look at the rad cap. all that thick mud is caked over the vacuum relief valve in the centre so no wonder it's causing a vacuum and buckling the soft hoses during cooldown.
won't be surprised if the rad, thermostat, narrow water jackets and heater matrix are also clogged and eventually cause overheating.

purely guessing it could've:
- had gas bubbles in the cooling (blown HG or external coolant leak) till not enough fluid was left
- lack of antifreeze in fluid (diluted or lack of service or user just poured straight water)
- both will cause the steel return pipe to rust, flake off, block galleys and possibly overheat
- user might have also used radweld to bandage a leak but will cause a bigger issue like microPros blocked water jacket

the whole system needs a thorough complete flush/clean and then assess the cause.

so as metioned before, remove hoses & thermostat and fully flush the cooling system and radiator both ways with garden hose till its clear,
test if rad is blocked
clean/test/replace thermostat
clean/replace rad cap
clean/rinse expansion tank
refill & bleed system with fresh coolant

check if coolant sensors within spec,
check for water leaks, smoking exhaust, bubbling expansion tank
Click to expand...
When you mentioned flush radiator both ways, I should feed in the hose pipe not just through the top of the rad?

thermostat where is it and once located, what should I look for? and which stuff should I put in now that it's flushed? I mean just coloured coolant? any good stuf? I don't like to buy gimmick ****e. I've heard of a particular gel now has anyone heard of it. I've cleaned the rad cap rather than replace it, cleaned reservoir and refilled. IIRC it had been flushed with water but only by emptying tap water bottles of the top this was quite some time ago, not with the hose forcing water in.. and I'm still in doubt but I think then I refilled with colored coolant..no natifreeze added though.

thanks guys.
 
r-reg-sr said:
ergh, if you didnt live abroad i would guess'd chris visited you and dump :) in the rad :) secretly
Click to expand...
I miss not living there mate, I honestly do. love your roads, the people and quality of service. I dislike indians everywhere though, I dont care how racist this makes me. Just been chatting with an ebay guy who just put up his k11 for sale for just GBP100 it's complete and seems in good nick, it's tranny is the only problem. Surely if I live there I'll go and tow it. but it wouldn't make any sense to consider getting it all the way here..
 
ahhhh man them indo's done you,,,,,:) why you didnt fling them a soap bar or they where trying to sell you one or two
 
funky2nite said:
When you mentioned flush radiator both ways, I should feed in the hose pipe not just through the top of the rad?

thermostat where is it and once located, what should I look for? and which stuff should I put in now that it's flushed? I mean just coloured coolant? any good stuf? I don't like to buy gimmick ####e. I've heard of a particular gel now has anyone heard of it. I've cleaned the rad cap rather than replace it, cleaned reservoir and refilled. IIRC it had been flushed with water but only by emptying tap water bottles of the top this was quite some time ago, not with the hose forcing water in.. and I'm still in doubt but I think then I refilled with colored coolant..no natifreeze added though.

thanks guys.
Click to expand...

to flush the rad, what I'd do is take the radiator out, turn upside down and reverse flush all the blocked crap backwards full force till the water comes out clear. this should dislodge and drain all the sludge particles that could be collecting & blocking the top of the rad.

to flush the engine, remove the thermostat (#6 in pic)
http://nissan4u.com/parts/micra/el_...rmostat_water_hose_and_piping/illustration_1/

fit the cover back on (#7 in pic) then stick the garden hose onto that thermostat cover and flush away till it all comes out clear.

remove the expansion tank and give it a good rinse till its clean n clear.

any coloured coolant mixed to the right concentration is better than plain water (the return pipe is steel, remember). imo the original green coolant from dealers is the best stuff.
 
My god... That is one duty radiator... That.... I have never seen such a bad example!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
 
pollyp said:
to flush the rad, what I'd do is take the radiator out, turn upside down and reverse flush all the blocked crap backwards full force till the water comes out clear. this should dislodge and drain all the sludge particles that could be collecting & blocking the top of the rad.

to flush the engine, remove the thermostat (#6 in pic)
http://nissan4u.com/parts/micra/el_...rmostat_water_hose_and_piping/illustration_1/

fit the cover back on (#7 in pic) then stick the garden hose onto that thermostat cover and flush away till it all comes out clear.

remove the expansion tank and give it a good rinse till its clean n clear.

any coloured coolant mixed to the right concentration is better than plain water (the return pipe is steel, remember). imo the original green coolant from dealers is the best stuff.
Click to expand...
Man you're the Micra forum GOD! I'll follow your advice, your detailed advice as always! thanks man for finally pointing out where the heck is this thermostat.
 

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