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Agent_Sm1ths Activ

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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

It's been leaking since I got the car, so that'll be a couple of years :eek: lol.



Looks like its had a prang at some point in its life.



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Jak Fuller

Jak Fuller

Loving this mate! A great blog for an awesome looking car!! Is your 'spare' car in century green? Rare colour and one of my favourites, which is why I bought one!! ;) black definitely suits the K11, though. :)
 
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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

Thanks. Yes that's the colour. We're going to have to agree to disagree with century green being a great colour though. ;)

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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

So now to remove the slam panel. The bolts were rusty so took a while, kept screwing them out and in little bits at a time so they wouldn't snap. Had run out of WD40. The two front support bolts just below the bonnet catch were easy to remove as they were covered in grease





Undo the top hose, unclip the fan connector, and lift the rad out.

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1275

1275

One of my cars had in the past had a bump and the repairer must have snapped a bolt so they actually just glued the bolt head back in place during the repair!
 
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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

Swap the fan assembly over to the new radiator.



Drop the new radiator back into place, and connect up the fan plug and pipes.



Grease the slam panel bolts so they'll never cease up again.



Fill up the radiator and expansion tank with the removed coolant (don't put the radiator cap back on yet), then run the engine and put the heater on hot till warm to remove any air. Then top up if required and pop the cap back on.

All done in less than an hour, and for just £17.



You can drop the rad from below, but mine has aircon so it hits the dryer/pressure switch canister.


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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

1275 said:
One of my cars had in the past had a bump and the repairer must have snapped a bolt so they actually just glued the bolt head back in place during the repair!
Click to expand...
Haha. Unbelievable what ppl will do eh!

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nissan boy

nissan boy

Those later radiators the coil packs use seem to corrode and leak alot, dizzy or after market are much better and seem to last longer
As well as not having the external frame like the older or aftermarket they seem to take more damage
 
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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

When I first wired in the Megasquirt MS3X ecu I used bullet connectors for ease and testing purposes. Me being lazy meant that they've been there ever since as it's awkward to replace them with proper connectors.
Thought I better make a start before I get issues.



You can just about see one of the new connectors behind the blue map pipe.

And the other side where the wideband connects. This side still has the temporary bullet connectors.
You can also see from both pictures how the new ecu fits perfectly under where the original one goes.



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addamf16

Agent_Sm1th said:
Now I don't know about you lot out there, but I like to know what revs I'm doing. Not for any real reason other than interest.
So stuck one of the Rev Counter clocks in.
Looks much better aesthetically.



Five dashboard screws later and its fitted.

Click to expand...
Hi, sorry to ask a Noob question but, does this come out of a K11 and if so, which one?
 
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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

I don't know specifically which k11 model the green clocks come from. It'll probably be something like the SR. You can get the standard black rev counter clocks from any of the higher spec facelift Micras such as GX, SE, etc.

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LiamC

LiamC

I've ruined my car 🙁
Agent_Sm1th said:
I don't know specifically which k11 model the green clocks come from. It'll probably be something like the SR. You can get the standard black rev counter clocks from any of the higher spec facelift Micras such as GX, SE, etc.

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Click to expand...
I think it was only the Si model that has green clocks for a facelift

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addamf16

Agent_Sm1th said:
I don't know specifically which k11 model the green clocks come from. It'll probably be something like the SR. You can get the standard black rev counter clocks from any of the higher spec facelift Micras such as GX, SE, etc.

Sent from my WAS-LX1A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Thank you, will head off to the scrappy near us.
 
flyboypuoi

flyboypuoi

Agent_Sm1th said:
So now to remove the slam panel. The bolts were rusty so took a while, kept screwing them out and in little bits at a time so they wouldn't snap. Had run out of WD40. The two front support bolts just below the bonnet catch were easy to remove as they were covered in grease





Undo the top hose, unclip the fan connector, and lift the rad out.

Sent from my WAS-LX1A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Well crap, I snapped all four of the slam panel bolts during my engine swap. Will try your method next time I have to undo something. There are many snappy bolts on mine.

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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

Time to fit a new coilpack ignitor module to replace the one I made.
You can see the original ignitor unit in the top right.

I love rivnuts.



Ignitor module temp fitted. These are Bosch units used by VW/Audi, so easily available and cheap.
Pt No: 0 227 100 211



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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

Got the wires all sorted. Sleeved them and made off the end connectors. Looks much neater and oem now.



Tested each coilpack to make sure they were all firing, and in the correct order!



Also testing out my Bluetooth connection that I made earlier on. No more wires. So much easier tweaking the ecu now. The wired connections are still available though.

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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

Decided to see if I can make the Bluetooth adaptor more compact, and also add the voltage divider onto the main pcb.
Managed to fit the modules over the top of each other. Just need a box now.



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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

Aircon re-gas time after replacing my front crossmember I had to have it degassed.





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addamf16

Agent_Sm1th said:
I decided that as all my interior is blue along with the electronic stuff, that I'd fit blue leds to the dash. First attempt. There's not enough light spread to light up the needles properly and also the resistors that are fitted are to small in value. The leds kept failing after about a week or two.


So after a rethink I fitted white leds (which are closer to the blue spectrum than normal filament bulbs) in blue holders with the correct value resistors (620ohms).
Much better. You can't tell from the photo very well as the camera corrects the blue hue somewhat. But suffice to say it's better and blue.

Click to expand...
Silly question time :)

Did you get a standard kit from Ebay or how did you go about this?
 
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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

I just bought the T5 led holders as I've got everything else due to me messing with electronics a lot.

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addamf16

I figured you might not have gone the kit route :) The T5 led holders being the black led holders right? EDIT......Just looked online and answered my own question :)
 
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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

It was never designed for mine so the wiper cutout doesn't line up.



I'm going to get the body shop to fill it and make it flush before spraying it up.

 
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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

Dropped off the mid spoiler at the bodyshop earlier, so now we'll have to wait and see how long it takes to fill and spray.

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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

Got the spoiler back from the body shop. So rather than just bond it on, I thought id bolt it on to strengthen it.

Opened up some existing holes and also where the body shop had to drill to put pins in to hold it whilst spraying.

 
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Agent_Sm1th

Agent_Sm1th

Then pressed in and bonded some nuts with black epoxy resin.



Put some temporary bolts in with some silicone release agent on to keep the threads clear whilst it hardens.





Now all I need to do is wait for the pu adhesive to turn up and the weather to get a bit better.
 
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