Adjusting The Idle Speed

Martin S

Martin S

Been ripping my hair out again. The engine is idling low when warm and shaking the whole car. Been vigorously searching the forum, can't see any way to adjust the idle speed. I've seen the 'so called' Idle screw in pictures on here but my throttle body looks different and I cannot see any idle speed screw anywhere on it. The first picture I have uploaded is a pic of the throttle body like I have, the second pic is one of the other type, which has an idle screw on it. How on earth do I adjust my idle speed on my tb?
 

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Thank you but, as I already said, I'm aware of that screw on that tb. I have a different one though, the first picture. There is no air bypass screw as far as I can see. Does anyone have any idea how to adjust the idle speed on that first pic tb?
 
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sorry guys to bring this up, but has jsut gone over this thread. How do you exactly get to the ICV? dismantle the t/b? or spray inside the mesh carb cleaner lots of it? my rev meter keeps jumping, but this happened after I replace the oem dizzy cap with an aftermarket one IIRC.

thanks mates!

Ian - Malta
 
funky2nite said:
sorry guys to bring this up, but has jsut gone over this thread. How do you exactly get to the ICV? dismantle the t/b? or spray inside the mesh carb cleaner lots of it? my rev meter keeps jumping, but this happened after I replace the oem dizzy cap with an aftermarket one IIRC.

thanks mates!

Ian - Malta
Click to expand...
Take the airbox off and it'll be looking right at you :)

If you remove the IACV, be gentle putting it back. There's a small O ring that can get trapped and leak air.

You don't want a busted ring,
 
skymera said:
Take the airbox off and it'll be looking right at you :)

If you remove the IACV, be gentle putting it back. There's a small O ring that can get trapped and leak air.

You don't want a busted ring,
Click to expand...
N73photo3674.jpg


So I should get to the below pic, right? :
throttle2.jpg


had to go through the old library of micra pics to get to this one.. hehe, then should I remove the mesh and dig deeper to that butterfly like metal flap that opens and closes or should I just spray carb cleaner into it? or am I rushing..as always?
 
funky2nite said:
So I should get to the below pic, right? :


had to go through the old library of micra pics to get to this one.. hehe, then should I remove the mesh and dig deeper to that butterfly like metal flap that opens and closes or should I just spray carb cleaner into it? or am I rushing..as always?
Click to expand...

Brown plug at the front of the TB is the IACV

You can spray carb cleaner into the TB but I found it rarely helps.
 
r-reg-sr said:
unplug it and 2 screws either side then gentle wiggle out--gentle wiggle back in-mind the rubber washer
Click to expand...
thanks man for the details, haven't had time to go through pollyp's detailed guide. but have noticed datasomething. would I need to hook something up? since I haven't got the obd stuff. any workarounds to doing it through manual cleaning after unplugging? btw if washer gets perished, seeing mine's a 19yr k11 would I be able to drive it around wihtout one until I get a new one from d net?
 
You can get a pack of o rings the right size from B&Q for about £1 or £2 :)
Given its age i would change it ....mine was brittle and a new o ring made a big difference to tickover.
Also I dabbed a little oil from the dipstick on the o ring so it seated nicely.
 
TonySLX said:
You can get a pack of o rings the right size from B&Q for about £1 or £2 :)
Given its age i would change it ....mine was brittle and a new o ring made a big difference to tickover.
Also I dabbed a little oil from the dipstick on the o ring so it seated nicely.
Click to expand...
Thanks mate too for your help. Anyone know the right size right off the top of his mind? by any chance.. since I finish late from work and there's not much time to go find the oring from harddware stores.
 
Whe
Jamie Sykes said:
that's what controls the idle speed if its not then that's 4 years at college training to be a mechanic wasted
Click to expand...
Sry 2 bother again, where is this idle bypass thingy sdo i check mine too. Im aware of the adjustable screw at the t/b but thats notsolvi g d prob it rather masks things. I still have to look at the iav valve orwhats it called but havetobuyd orings beforehand. When i clean should i keep ann eye for somerhing in particular? Eq when cleaning dizzy cap i watched for white residueon the pins.

Thanks agasin
 
funky2nite said:
Whe

Sry 2 bother again, where is this idle bypass thingy sdo i check mine too. Im aware of the adjustable screw at the t/b but thats notsolvi g d prob it rather masks things. I still have to look at the iav valve orwhats it called but havetobuyd orings beforehand. When i clean should i keep ann eye for somerhing in particular? Eq when cleaning dizzy cap i watched for white residueon the pins.

Thanks agasin
Click to expand...
you been smoking those fat ones again ian ! the idle control valve simply bypasses the throttle plate
 
frank said:
you been smoking those fat ones again ian ! the idle control valve simply bypasses the throttle plate
Click to expand...
Sry for the typos but me nexus sucks big time. You made me laugh btw all d way from her majesty's country...all i know of is the t/b and the butterfly kinda plate inside of it which opens up on revving..i clean it with lots of carb cleaner..sry me luv this stuff but still dumb..hasv to learn everything on own initative..no one knows a dime abt this stuff at home
 
the I/C/V is just a controlled air leak into the manifold ian, the ecu automatically opens or closes it to set the rpm
and there is a rubber O ring at the bottom that some owners tend to get trapped when they refit the valve, if its undamaged then just lube it :)
 
frank said:
the I/C/V is just a controlled air leak into the manifold ian, the ecu automatically opens or closes it to set the rpm
and there is a rubber O ring at the bottom that some owners tend to get trapped when they refit the valve, if its undamaged then just lube it :)
Click to expand...
Thanks youre the man, one of my favy me!mbers that reply instant!y. You guys make me love me 19yo k11
 
funky2nite said:
Thanks youre the man, one of my favy me!mbers that reply instant!y. You guys make me love me 19yo k11
Click to expand...
you did,nt listen to me about the rusty coolant tho :D many Mediterranean residents dont bother with antifreeze because of the local climate, then are alarmed when they find that rad is full of rusty water :rolleyes:
 
frank said:
you did,nt listen to me about the rusty coolant tho :D many Mediterranean residents dont bother with antifreeze because of the local climate, then are alarmed when they find that rad is full of rusty water :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Ye i diud frank, i've a jerrycan of green coolant in the car w8ing for me to remove the rad and reverse flush it and the engine then put the coolant in. Ive no garage i do this stuff asfterwork in front of home which is a bit ridicolous. Tho could w8 till august since i shall be getting me own place wit d garage FInaLLY. But i wont let tap water sit thast long in it
 
frank said:
many Mediterranean residents dont bother with antifreeze because of the local climate, then are alarmed when they find that rad is full of rusty water :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

mainly due to the steel coolant return pipe eh? wonder what nissan was thinking while the rest of the cooling system is mainly Alu & plastic & nickel plated water pump & rad cap.
if the return pipe was replaced with an Alu pipe, perhaps that may reduce the chances of corrosion?
 
pollyp said:
mainly due to the steel coolant return pipe eh? wonder what nissan was thinking while the rest of the cooling system is mainly Alu & plastic & nickel plated water pump & rad cap.
if the return pipe was replaced with an Alu pipe, perhaps that may reduce the chances of corrosion?
Click to expand...
I think both out and return are rubber on mine..not too sure but i think so if we thinking on same thing
 
Hello guys.
Last night i had the amazing idea to clean the lamda sensor and the idle control valve with WD40.
after cleaning them and putting them back to place my idle speed has gone crazy.
instead of starting cold at ~1300 its about 1800 and when it gets warm its at 1200 instead of 650!...
what did i do wrong?
did i damage the lambda sensor?
 
i couldn't locate the maf sensor :p
At first i thought that the maf sensor was the idle valve that's why i cleaned it :p

What do you mean i leaked the wrong fluids?
 
Dunno I have a prefacelift K11 shes 20 years old in September, basically compared to later ones my emissions system is very basic, cat, one sensor in the downpipe, my ecu is very basic too, she either runs or she doesn't.
I haven't really had much to do with later K11s, although that's going to change as im going to get one for the wife, it needs to have powersteering, so it will be a later one.
 

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