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1993 Nissan Micra Super S - Mikey Mk2

It's the small touches that make the biggest differences :)

Have a link for you Calum
http://www.micra.org.uk/index.php?posts/659595

Thanks :)

Just sourced a Frankspeed Mani and GA16 airbox with snorkel off Skymera - Can anyone think of a reason not to build another snorkel using alloy tubing and silicone connectors with an intake trumpet on the end? Heat sink possibly? I know snorkels are usually made of plastic and not alloy but I thought it might look tidy.
 
^^ I intend to do that, keep the GA16 box empty as an area to store air ready for throttle and have a pipe down to a cone filter.

Just don't make the pipe too big or too small or youll lose responsiveness ect :p
 
^^ I intend to do that, keep the GA16 box empty as an area to store air ready for throttle and have a pipe down to a cone filter.

Just don't make the pipe too big or too small or youll lose responsiveness ect :p

I was going to keep it 57mm OD alloy piping with 60mm OD silicone connectors as the inlet pipe on the ga16 airbox is 60mm iirc? I was planning on sticking with a k&n panel filter in the box though? Reckon there's any gains to using a cone filter? It should come down to surface area of the filter right?
 
If your going to use a K&n in the box don't use the trumpet/cone :p

No real advantages tbh other than the noise and the added sporty look under the engine bay haha.
 
I just like to keep the engine bay tidy :) as long as it won't negatively impact performance or fuel economy (not too much anyway :p)

I meant an inlet cone like this http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/si...cessories/alloy-air-inlet-cones-trumpets.html
on the end of the pipe (behind the NS headlamp where it normally is). Is there a reason I shouldn't use one?

Has anyone tried turning the airbox the other way around and routing the inlet piping to behind the OS headlamp instead? Not sure of the fitment but if it were possible then a heat shield box could be installed around the intake with a cold air feed going into it.

I don't have PAS or air con so my engine bay is pretty empty. The brake servo might get in the way though...
 
ahh I see, yeah that would be a good set up, better than mine :)

Im sure someone has turned it round and routed it like that just cant remember who :p
 
ahh I see, yeah that would be a good set up, better than mine :)

Im sure someone has turned it round and routed it like that just cant remember who :p

Just realised I also have the brake fluid reservoir to contend with. If I could manage it, it would also save messing around with the carbon cannister which I'm pretty sure needs to be moved in order to fit the ga16 box..
 
You can cut the mount and mount it lower. ill try grab a picture of my one, I used the mount from preface lift and cut it so its held on with 1 bolts rather than 2 so the cc sits lower :)
 
You can cut the mount and mount it lower. ill try grab a picture of my one, I used the mount from preface lift and cut it so its held on with 1 bolts rather than 2 so the cc sits lower :)

That would be great thanks, mines already a prefacelift, so it should be easy then :)
 

The weather in Swansea was great today - it only rained lightly and the wind didn't have that much sand in it this time :p

So I went out to service the car - Oil / Fuel filter / Plugs etc.

Calum - 1
Oil filter tightened by Superman - nil

I can't tell if it's running any smoother because without an exhaust the car sounds like a subaru.

I'm not complaining ;)
 
Sad times.

The MOT on my Super S has expired and will require some work to get a new one (exhaust centre section and cross member). I could do the work myself but I am saving to have some serious mods done on the car and I don't wish to start spending money on it unnecessarily when most parts will be getting swapped out later. I am also fed up of having to park it on the road as it was starting to pick up parking dents and the wheels could do with a refurb after going through the winter. The insurance is also due for renewal at the end of the month.

I have decided to take the Micra off the road, give it a good clean, and garage it at my Mum's house. It will stay there until I have my own garage and/or enough money to get the modifications done to it. In the mean time I have bought this to drive around:

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Good Points:
Definitely not as fun as the Micra, but it's got tonnes of space and with a 170bhp from a 2.0 Turbo engine made by Saab (Z20NET), six speed gearbox and lowered chassis (as it's the SRI model) it's not exactly slow. It's got 154,000 miles on the clock and drives like new. It's had a brand new turbo fitted at the start of this year and a new alternator at some point. Its also had a full stainless steel performance exhaust fitted. Paintwork is also in pretty good condition (metallic purple / black colour) and I've been getting 45mpg on the motorway and 32mpg around town which doesn't seem too bad.

Bad Points:
Has some damage to the boot and bumper, but I have found a replacement boot and bumper for £65 all in, so will replace them soon. The EML is also on due to a worn out o2 sensor, it doesn't seem to be affecting fuel economy or performance (yet) though.

It was both cheaper to buy and £500 cheaper to insure annually than my Super S, and considering it's a '54 plate seemed like a bargain. I will probably keep it over the course of my PhD which I will start after my Master's finishes in September (so for the next three years). During this time I will hopefully get work started on the Micra and post updates on here.

I don't plan on doing much to the Vectra, it will probably go in for a chiptune to get it up to the 215bhp mark, but I don't plan on any other mods, just tidying it up for as little money as possible as and when parts appear on eBay. I will also swap the chrome grill for a black one and colour code the rear chrome strip (and de badge it).

I will update this blog with Micra related things as they happen :), I might also create another blog for this car in the Mon-Micra section if anyone is interested?

All the best,
Calum
 
Well, before garaging up my Micra I met up with a fellow member of the MSC (Luca Bonazzi - Micra Dot Rising to the Top) this morning. Took a drive along the coast and grabbed the following pictures (courtesy of Luca):

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It's hard to believe that there's 40 years between these two Micras!
 
I'd buy a micra calender :p

Need to facelift that Vectra dude :)

Oh how I'd love too :rolleyes: I joined the Vectra owners club for technical and maintenance advice, and I am already tempted to start swapping things..

I deliberately bought a car that I wouldn't want to modify as well :p

Any money that gets spent on the Vectra reduces the Micra fund however, reason enough to leave it how it is..

..I hope
 
hi nice car so what kind of price are you looking for your car,this was for sale near me a while a go still looks in good nik
 
Well a change of circumstances has allowed me to keep the Micra, so I've got some work to do over the next few months which include new exhaust and cross member. Until then I've got my work cut out getting my mates Triumph Spitfire / GT6 hybrid thing back on the road as its running very rough. The engines a 2.0 from a Vitesse.

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Does anyone have any tips for stripping / rebuilding / tuning SU carbs? Looks like I'm gonna have my work cut out..
 
Well a change of circumstances has allowed me to keep the Micra, so I've got some work to do over the next few months which include new exhaust and cross member. Until then I've got my work cut out getting my mates Triumph Spitfire / GT6 hybrid thing back on the road as its running very rough. The engines a 2.0 from a Vitesse.

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Does anyone have any tips for stripping / rebuilding / tuning SU carbs? Looks like I'm gonna have my work cut out..
Su's are easy lol. Aren't they strombergs on the 6 pot though?
 
Su's are easy lol. Aren't they strombergs on the 6 pot though?

Pretty certain from Checking diagrams of Stromberg's and SU's on the internet that they are the SU type. The engine is built from a mix match of components of different models of car, so it wouldn't surprise me if its not the standard carb. Recently worked out the the Distributor is from an Austin Princess..

The ignition is all good, as is the air supply, which leaves fuelling which is also flowing corectly up to the carbs, so it must be the carbs which are causing loss of power and cutting out right? The engine can be forced to keep going by bringing the choke in, but then it sounds like its over fuelling as you would expect. I'm hoping rebuilding the carbs and tuning them should solve this. Got new vacuum hoses on order and all the gaskets look good..
 
Check that the floats in the float chambers are floating, can move freely and that the needle valves are allowing fuel past.
Check the piston moves up and down freely, and that you have 20/50 oil in the dashpots.
Check play in the throttle spindle, if there is play it'll need an oversized shaft or rebushing.
Screw the jets in fully, then back them off 2 1/2 turns to get the default start position. Check the engine can idle correctly, and allow the engine to warm. You may need to fiddle with the jets to get it to idle, but adjust them evenly.
when warm and running, set the idle at about 750rpm.
Remove the air filters, and with a screwdriver, lift the piston 1/16".
If the revs die off, it's too lean, richen the mixture a flat. If revs rise and stay risen, it's too rich. Lean mixture one flat. If revs rise for a second or so then return to normal, mixture is correct. Repeat until mixture is correct, and do the same for the other carb.
 
Check that the floats in the float chambers are floating, can move freely and that the needle valves are allowing fuel past.
Check the piston moves up and down freely, and that you have 20/50 oil in the dashpots.
Check play in the throttle spindle, if there is play it'll need an oversized shaft or rebushing.
Screw the jets in fully, then back them off 2 1/2 turns to get the default start position. Check the engine can idle correctly, and allow the engine to warm. You may need to fiddle with the jets to get it to idle, but adjust them evenly.
when warm and running, set the idle at about 750rpm.
Remove the air filters, and with a screwdriver, lift the piston 1/16".
If the revs die off, it's too lean, richen the mixture a flat. If revs rise and stay risen, it's too rich. Lean mixture one flat. If revs rise for a second or so then return to normal, mixture is correct. Repeat until mixture is correct, and do the same for the other carb.

Thank you :D

Will let you know how it goes!
 
Check that the floats in the float chambers are floating, can move freely and that the needle valves are allowing fuel past.
Check the piston moves up and down freely, and that you have 20/50 oil in the dashpots.
Check play in the throttle spindle, if there is play it'll need an oversized shaft or rebushing.
Screw the jets in fully, then back them off 2 1/2 turns to get the default start position. Check the engine can idle correctly, and allow the engine to warm. You may need to fiddle with the jets to get it to idle, but adjust them evenly.
when warm and running, set the idle at about 750rpm.
Remove the air filters, and with a screwdriver, lift the piston 1/16".
If the revs die off, it's too lean, richen the mixture a flat. If revs rise and stay risen, it's too rich. Lean mixture one flat. If revs rise for a second or so then return to normal, mixture is correct. Repeat until mixture is correct, and do the same for the other carb.

Well, not got the Carbs back on the car yet as still waiting for the new hoses, Carbs have been fully stripped and rebuilt though, was far less hassle than I thought :). Jets are set to default as per your recommendation and Dash pots are topped up with oil and everything seems to be functioning well and within spec.

Two questions:

1. Can the Dash pots be too full? Is there a correct level to fill them to?

2. Instead of using a screwdriver to lift the piston during setup, does it make any difference if I leave the air filters on and just lift them using the lifting pin on the side?

Thanks again!
 
Just thought I would post up a few pictures of the car as it is at the moment:

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As can be seen, the sill is in a sorry state and is starting to rust through where one of the previous owners had it welded. I am hoping to wet and dry this back to reveal good metal at which point I shall reseal and re paint the affected area. The area around the sill on the bodywork shall need attention too as there is bubbling under the paint.

The cross member is starting to rust through as well. I considered getting it welded but I am just going to fit a new one and have someone spot weld it in place.

The exhaust is being replaced with a NodSpeed decat pipe and new standard centre pipe.

Will post some pictures up when the work is done.

Even though I've done a fair amount of research, any tips on undertaking the above would be much appreciated.

So glad I decided to keep the Super S, my Vauxhall is boring as hell compared to the Micra.. Despite being more practical in every single way :p
 
Well, not got the Carbs back on the car yet as still waiting for the new hoses, Carbs have been fully stripped and rebuilt though, was far less hassle than I thought :). Jets are set to default as per your recommendation and Dash pots are topped up with oil and everything seems to be functioning well and within spec.

Two questions:

1. Can the Dash pots be too full? Is there a correct level to fill them to?

2. Instead of using a screwdriver to lift the piston during setup, does it make any difference if I leave the air filters on and just lift them using the lifting pin on the side?

Thanks again!
Su's don't have the lifting pins as far as I'm aware, that's the strombergs which I have no experience of. you want to leave about a half inch of oil from top to allow room for the damper rod. Got a close up pic of the carbs?
 
Su's don't have the lifting pins as far as I'm aware, that's the strombergs which I have no experience of. you want to leave about a half inch of oil from top to allow room for the damper rod. Got a close up pic of the carbs?

Definitely SU carbs as it's written on the top of the float chambers. The lifting pin I'm talking about is in the second pic.
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Thanks :)
 
must be hs6's then, Hs4's never had the lifting pins! I'd use the lifting pins and leave the filters on, assuming they're not horribly blocked :)
 
must be hs6's then, Hs4's never had the lifting pins! I'd use the lifting pins and leave the filters on, assuming they're not horribly blocked :)

Got the car running! Drives much better now and doesn't cut out intermittently. Set the carbs up correctly but revs are hovering around the 900 rpm mark. Is there any way to adjust rpms without adjusting the mixture?
 
Got the car running! Drives much better now and doesn't cut out intermittently. Set the carbs up correctly but revs are hovering around the 900 rpm mark. Is there any way to adjust rpms without adjusting the mixture?
Yeah, there should be an idle adjust screw that acts on a cam on the throttle spindle or linkage.
 
Hi everyone, just thought I would update my blog whilst I'm on here. I've started collecting parts whilst the car is off the road in order to fix everything in one go.

I have decided against fixing the exhaust, as I am currently in the process of fabricating a stainless steel top mount turbo manifold (similar in fashion to the HKS one). I'm attempting it with some cheap alloy piping first so as not to waste precious metal. Will upload some pics of the finished article when it's done. I am going to spot weld it together and have it welded professionally to get a good finish. Still trying to decide whether to go V-band or fit a traditional flange (not sure which type of turbo to run yet).

Once the manifold is finished I'll mock fit the turbo up to the engine and fabricate an alloy inlet plenum. This fabrication business is quite therapeutic when you get the hang of it. Then I'll be doing the intercooler and exhaust piping. Again, having it all professionally welded where required. Can't wait to get the car into a bigger garage and pick up my engine crane and engine stand. Will post some pictures up when some progress has been made. I also want to strip the car's underside apart (suspension etc.) and refurbish and replace everything to get it back into shape.

One step at a time I guess...

On another note, my dad had a full stainless steel Milltek exhaust system fitted (including their 200 cell cats) to his car and I thought I'd upload some pics of their handy work. The car went from having no less than 5 largish silencers to 2 relatively small ones... It certainly puts a smile on your face. My next saloon car will definitely be a V8 (thinking BMW 740 or Jaguar XJR) as gas guzzler are cheap nowadays and I don't drive many miles when I am in London :p

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Picked this up yesterday, its a 43,000 mile CG13DE Auto Engine. It is going to be stripped, inspected and rebuilt for use on my turbo build. If anyone knows if I should keep an eye out for anything in particular let me know, advice would be greatly appreciated as this is my first engine build :)

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Will keep this updated with plenty of pics as I progress.
 
might aswell do the timing chain if you've got it out and sitting there :)

Thanks for the suggestion, I might do. I've just had the upper chain and tensioner off and it looks pretty good, albeit with some grooves on the tensioner plate from the chain which I guess is to be expected.

If genuine Nissan parts aren't too expensive I'll consider it, as I'm not too keen with replacing timing chain parts with aftermarket ones, especially when the Nissan ones are known to be reliable.

I'll be swapping all of the seals and gaskets, and fitting stainless steel bolts with Allen heads on the smaller bolt holes which don't require tightening as much. I'm still trying to work out whether to use 2 genuine Nissan head gaskets, or swap to thicker custom steel one. Also it will obviously be easier to modify the engine fully while its out of the car, first I have to clean everything though :p.

Oh and it looks like a T25 is going to be my most likely choice of turbo, although I'm open to suggestions. :)
 
an engine build can easily turn into a moneypit callum, i would get the car running reliably on half a bar first, then build a high boost engine if you have any money left :)
 
an engine build can easily turn into a moneypit callum, i would get the car running reliably on half a bar first, then build a high boost engine if you have any money left :)

I know what you mean Frank, its easy to get carried away, however I had been saving to have the car converted to the AWD running gear from a pulsar, but that fell through as its hard to find someone willing to take on the challenge and that I can trust to chop up my car. I shouldn't imagine the build (even a forged one) will cost a huge amount provided I take my time and take into account the past experiences of members on here. I'm willing to spend a fair amount as I don't plan on getting rid of the Micra and would rather spend my money on modifying it to a high standard than buying a brand new Clio or Golf like some of my mates.

I like the idea of 'do it right, do it once', although I am certain I'll encounter some challenges along the way. My going concern is getting the engine as close to perfect condition as possible, both physically and cosmetically. Following that I shall begin to collect turbo parts for the build, reassembling the engine as I go along.

This is of course only possible because my car is off the road and I can work on the engine seperately, one of the main reasons I chose to buy this engine as opposed to working on the one in the car.

I'd like to know what people think of the idea of a polished engine block. It is something I am considering as I love polishing metal (previously rawed and hand polished a road bike frame to a mirror finish) and I'm looking for a new challenge. I know a polished engine doesn't dissipate heat as effectively as a rough cast one, however I'll be running an oil cooler which should alleviate this.

Thoughts are welcome :)
 
Made some progress with stripping and cleaning the engine today. Won't be able to go any further until I get my hands on an impact driver next week for removing the flywheel and cylinder head. Might also have a go at lightly repolishing the cam lobes / followers.

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A fair few things have happened over the past few months so here goes..

Finally got the spare engine fully stripped and packed away for now; I shall never strip an engine on my kitchen floor again! The turbo build for this engine will be on hold until I have sorted the car itself out which is the going concern (more on this later).

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I also Finished my Masters in Swansea so I am back in London for good now, providing I can find a job it means I can start to spend some money on getting the Micra back in shape. I decided to sell the Vectra as it was becoming boring and I couldn't justify the £450 needed to replace the clutch, I got £650 for it, which I didnt think was too bad as I only paid £700.

It was a bit of a shame to let it go as I put quite a bit of effort into it, although it definitely taught me a lot as its far more complicated to work on than a K11 and has given me much more confidence in doing work myself! The two things I learnt the most from was removing, stripping and rebuilding the turbo (which is harder than it sounds as the turbo is tucked in a super tight space down the back of the engine). I did this as one of the turbo bolts on the manifold had sheared off inside the manifold, creating a blow as the turbo was only being held on by two of the three bolts. I drilled and retapped a new stud which solved this. It took me two nights working in the freezing cold rain with only a phone light to get the turbo and manifold out!

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And here is the turbo

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Reinstalled back in the super tight space I was talking about!

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I also refurbished the wheels and brakes, which I thought went well for a first attempt, especially considering the amount of filling required and that I left the tyres on.

Before:

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After: (I know these pics are of different wheels but believe me when I say that all of them were kerbed just as badly haha, the previous owner clearly didn't know how to park)

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I'd also polished it and given it a somewhat stealth look with a colour coded front grille and fly eyes kit. I also debadged the rear.

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So anyway, enough with the boring Vectra stuff!

Literally the day I sold the Vectra I travelled to my mums to pick up the K11. It was like christmas come early! Adrian flux actually reduced my premium from £750 on the Vectra to £500 for the Micra with all mods declared- strange considering the renewal for my Micra that Adrian Flux gave was originally £1000 hmmm...

Picked up the car and drove it from Swindon to London with no problems and had it MOTd and Taxed that evening :D needed the broken exhaust welding to pass which cost the grand sum of £25, other than that it passed with flying colours :)

I forgot how awesome driving a Micra is, its so much fun and much more involving than a modern car with power steering and drivers assistance :p Its amazing how much more you can feel the road..

I decided to buy my own set of axle stands and a low profile trolley jack from Halfords, not bad for £55 all in (I think their internet prices are still at that if anyone is interested - £10 per pair of stands and £35 for the jack - worth every penny imo).

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Decided to tackle my first real Micra DIY today by replacing the clutch on my girlfriends K11 (Mikey Mk 1). I followed the advice on the MSC and managed to get the clutch out without removing the driveshafts following the advice of Frank in a comment on the thread :) (Thanks! Without knowing this was possible I would've been stuck as the axle bolt on the NSF wheel was siezed solid). After some gentle persuasion the gearbox came off and I got the clutch out, there was nothing left of it!

This is how the car sits now, pending the arrival of its new clutch (Exedy clutch kit for £30 from carpartsforless) which should arrive tomorrow.

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The axle stand wasnt actually placed there btw, I put the stand under the rear wishbone joint, works quite well (again advice on here) :) I closed the bell housing back up to the engine to keep it out the way for now, it drops quite a bit even with the shafts in..

The only downside of leaving the shafts in is that it is a tight fit to get the clutch in and out, I doubt an alignment tool will fit in... I'll soon find out.

Unfortunately upon arriving at my girlfriends house in the morning to do the work I caught the exhausts secondary cat flange on the lip of the driveway as I reversed in (its steep to get into) and dragged the whole system to the front of the car by about an inch and a half :eek:

Needless to say it rattles horribly now every time I turn or accelerate. Nothing seems to be damaged funilly enough, although something has definitely bent, I'm guessing it's the downpipe.

As I'll probably be using public transport to get to work every day (that's central London for you) I am now going to take the Micra back off the road and fully rebuild its undercarriage in preparation for the summer. I am in contact with Matt Humphris who will hopefully be supplying most of the parts for the rebuild.

The rear axle will be wirebrushed and repainted as it is rather corroded (as are most of the components) and fitted with a disc conversion kit. All of the anti roll bars will be uprated with uprated bushings, Nismo trailing arm bushes will be fitted. I am thinking of fitting a set of adjustable platform SPAX dampers with a 50mm drop, although I am also considering alternatives (such as Andy's (H701) coilovers, which seems to be reasonably priced. The rest of the undercarriage components (wishbones / drop links will also be replaced with new items as they are relatively cheap and it seems like the perfect time to do it).

Whilst the undercarriage is empty I am going to fit a new exhaust, I have decided to go with a stainless steel Janspeed 4 branch manifold and the corresponding 2" bore cat back system. I am planning on keeping an NA setup for my trip to the Outer Hebrides (Harris and Lewis) in the summer. I'd be a bit scared to go that far afield without a properly tested and dialled in turbo system..

I'll keep this page updated as work progresses, in the mean time however I will be selling my wheel / tyre setup as I am planning on running wider / sticker tyres. Keep an eye out on the buy/sell page :D.

All the best,

Calum
 
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