1.3 cams into cg10de trouble.

[Mugen_fd2]

Hi, all! I min process of swapping 1.3 cams into my 1l engine and already make full bunch of mistakes.(just found guide how to do it).
Main problem is what that I cant put the chain back and timing. The chain just refuse to go back on the sprockets and it seems like it has to much load despite I took the tensioner off. And timing is the other problem as rotate inlet cam with spanner to set pointer on second (tdc)position. Also mark on idler sprocket is not on male, but female link and I cant change it, as part of engine casting on the bottom just preventing from doing so.
Will appreciate of your help, as just serviced my micra with new clutch, brakes, oils, joints etc. Wife will go crazy if Ill scrap it now due to not running engine.

 

[frank]

have you tried lining the lobes up like this on tdc ? and you need the caps bolted down first

 

[Mugen_fd2]

I struggle to put chain on the sprockets first. No way I can do that. Just wandering what is algorithm to to this? Bolt cams first to th engine and after sprockets into the cams with chain on top?

 

[frank]

bolt the cams in, then fit the sprockets to the chain and lift them onto the cams

 

[Mugen_fd2]

Ok. Now I've learned how to put everything together. It looks like this. Ive got 5 male links between two marks.

 

[frank]

is the tensioner fitted and released ?

 

[Mugen_fd2]

But on idler sprocket mark is not on male link. Is it between two male links(marked red dot) and I cant move it, block head dont allow me to do that. Also below picture whe Ive opened cam cover - marks between links. Does it mean that someone has been there before? Or chain has slipped by itself?

 

[Mugen_fd2]

is the tensioner fitted and released ?

not yet - im concern that whole timing is not according this picture

 

[frank]

the lower chain sits in a different position each time you turn the engine, if you turn the engine 1 full turn the male links on the top chain should then line up
you will need to turn the cams so that there is no piston/valve contact tho

 

[Mugen_fd2]

Confused. Totally confused.
Lets say pointer on 2nd notch - what to do now? Set timing like on post #5 and install and release tensioner? But then it lots of chain slack from exhaust side, and no slack from intake side.
and how to determine that pistons will not hit the valves?

 

[frank]

if you cant get them to line up then turn the engine 1 turn with the cams removed (or else turn the cams so that the valves clear the pistons)

 

[Mugen_fd2]

For clarification - I should make 1 full turn from 2nd notch to 2nd notch with cams off and than put them back like this?

and idler sprocket will line up also?

 

[frank]

yeh, but dont worry about the idler

 

[Mugen_fd2]

ok. btw at some point when I turned cams I felt something blocking them from turning. Is it piston/valve contact?

 

[frank]

yes

 

[Mugen_fd2]

Thank you, Frank, for your help.

 

[tomwest]

i presume you've taken out your spark plugs, and the blocking feeling you're getting isn't just cylinder compression. i had similar problems when changing my inlet cam, but they all went away when i removed and released the tensioner.

 

[Mugen_fd2]

No, lugs are in places for now. Do i need to take them out?

 

[Magpie42]

No, lugs are in places for now. Do i need to take them out?

It just makes it easier to turn the engine by hand....

 

[Mugen_fd2]

Ok, will do on following weekend.

 

[Mugen_fd2]

Shall I start the engine? Aslo I made one turn on clockwise to check if there is no piston/valve contact.

 

[wehey]

Looks spot on to me. You need turn the crank 2 complete turns clockwise to be sure tho (720 degrees)

 

[frank]

+1, have you released the tensioner trigger ?

 

[Mugen_fd2]

Yes

 

[frank]

Yes

so it does,nt spring back ? its locked now ?

 

[Mugen_fd2]

Chain between cam sprockets is wobbly a little. But i thought when engine is full of oil it will be fine.
No?

 

[frank]

thats usually the rattle from cold that members complain about, because the ratchet has,nt been locked into place and it takes a few seconds for the oil to pressurise the tensioner
the ratchet mech holds the piston out/tight while the engine is started from cold, so after fitting you have to forcibly shove the tensioner back till it clicks, and that resets the ratchet when the oil pushes it out for the 1st time (then its locked out)

 

[Mugen_fd2]

How I can push it back if I seal inspection plate already?

 

[Mugen_fd2]

ive locket tensioner before installation and after pushed with finger to make it unlock.

 

[frank]

if it wont push back then its locked, if its still springy then its not locked innit

 

[Mugen_fd2]

****

 

[frank]

big flat screwdriver from above

 

[Mugen_fd2]

It was locked.
Starting in 30 min

 

[Mugen_fd2]

Yes! She's alive!
Now engine feels completely different. I haven't drive for 2 weeks, but is seems like it accelerates faster, will check on motorway. Dat sound - wow, can hear notes of F1.
And few bad bits - looks like this silikone is not good at all. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00442NWOQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Have to comeback to Threebond 1251. Also my new engine oil filter leaks a bit - its strange as I've done as per manual.



Frank, Tomwest, Magpie42, Wehey - thank you for your help, guys!

 

[frank]

did you lube the filter rubber o ring ?

 

[Mugen_fd2]

yes, like always. I fit it last saturday and fill with oil today. Could that be the reason it leaks?

 

[frank]

dunno then

 

[Mugen_fd2]

I think I've over tighten it.