1.0 - 1997 starting problem

Good morning to all!

I do have a starting problem with my micra, and need some advice, if someone had similar situation.

Last year (basically this time last year) I had problem with my micra, that distributor had died, which was solved with another (used) one.
That problem was reasonably easy to solve due to fact that there was no spark (at all), so no big deal there.

Now, it could be same/similar, but...

2 months ago Micra started to show some signs of engine starting problem, sometimes it wouldn't start at first crank, but second, but it was - sometimes.
Until couple days ago when it will not start at all, or after 5-6 cranking attempts.
I have checked fuel system (it was ok), removed distributor and cleaned it (the distributor cap was dirty (spark residue) as well rotor, all cleaned and sanded (more like polished) with fine sand paper.
I have cleaned the rest of distributor also (contacts, timing disc..), and spark plugs (they did look very fine).
Resistance of HT coil looks OK (it think in range of 1 Ohm for primary and 12 kOhms for secondary).

On one occasion I have managed on "no start attempt" to remove spark plug and put it to engine block to check is there spark, and no, there was no spark.
After 3-4 times key ON/OFF engine started as normal. When engine starts, it runs normal, no engine shutoff's. It's like I have to "energize" ignition to make it start.

My problem is - could be distributor again? I do not have nobody close to me to borrow one to test, and to spend 50-80 GBP for test doesn't sound reasonable (although an option).

The "no spark issue" appears regardless is engine cold or hot, and is it hot outside (over 35 C) or "colder" as this morning "19 C".

A have replaced (well - switched) old capacitor from old distributor - same thing.
Car battery is good, no cranking issues there.
On-board diagnostic is code 55.

Do these (pre-coil pack) Micra's have engine rpm/crank position sensor (outside distributor)? If yes, where is it, maybe it is dirty?
Would it be wise to mount fuel pressure gauge between fuel filter and injector rail in engine bay? And what pressure should I expect?

Thank you!
Tommy
 

frank

Club Member
sounds like a dodgy contact somewhere tommy, wiring plug or whatever, 1 of mine would lose its spark if the ecu plug was disturbed and i had to fit it slightly crooked
 
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Thanks Frank,

could be, although, I have checked every plug within my reach for corrosion or any other damage (there were none), and of course, I sprayed a little bit contact spray in every plug.
I will check also ECU plug, I believe it hasn't been touched since day it left factory :).
Thank you
 
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Well,

I am no closer to solution than I was few days ago, same - unpredictable starting.

It crossed my mind, maybe NATS system is not working, anybody have advice how to check it?
Would there be some warning lamp on if key is not recognized?
As said before, on diagnostic, code 55 indicates no errors, but anyway, NATS is not among them.
Thanks!

Eidt/update: if (immobilizer) LED goes off when key is set/turned to ON, that means key is recognized? if so,then system is working ok, so problem lies somewhere else..
 
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frank

Club Member
the led will flash is its a nats problem tommy, there are a few nats threads with 141 or 143 codes on here
 
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Just checked - no NATS flashing. Once I turn key - LED is off.
Also, I did stop by local electronic store for different contact cleaners, so I will give a good check and clean to all plugs, relays and fuses.
Thanks!
 
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No, never (if you refer to master lock/steering lock ?).
What would be symptom of ignition switch failing?
As stated before, engine cranks without any hesitation, NATS LED is off when key is turned. I do not think that ignition switch switches several systems at once, but, I will have to check in wiring diagram, maybe I am wrong.
Ignition switch is reasonably easy to to check, possibly bypass, just have to make sure key is near immobilizer antenna.
Thanks
 
At this age these vehicles these are known to suffer from

1. corroded fuse carriers/holders contacts

2. cracks in fuse fusible links and dry or

3. corroded wire connections underneath at the base inside the fuse boxes

4. Intermittent relays contacts operation

5. ignition switch contacts Intermittent op

Check the injectors supply volts in none start condition with

1. ignition on

2. Whilst cranking
 
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No harm done in replacing ignition switch, waiting for local shop to confirm stock, but since engine is happily cranking, I am not so convinced. I did "played" a little bit with key in ignition (moving, pulling, shaking), but no changes, looks solid.

All other items mentioned by member plmval have been checked, and will be rechecked,just to make sure. It is worth noting that all electric plugs that I have checked so far were in pristine condition, with no sign of corrosion at all (a person that I have brought may old distributor for check last year has asked me has part been cleaned).
Relays have not been checked, but I will switch positions of compatible relays, and see are there any changes. This may be way to go.

I can check injector supply voltage, but better would be to use oscilloscope, since injectors are "voltage driven" (pulse) so there may be false results with common multi meter.
However, due to fact that (I confirmed once, I have to do it again, but I need another pair of hands) there is no spark, fuel system should be Ok.

Thank you all.
 

frank

Club Member
the injectors are pulsed via earth tommy, and constant live (ign on) a drop of fuel down the throttlebody will confirm an injector or nats problem
 
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Thanks Frank,

very valuable info. I will carry on more detailed check during weekend.
Yesterday, Micra was fine, so I did not had chance for additional inspections (she started 10-ish times, on very first crank). I rechecked relays (and swapped 2 - engine control and fan control, I think), fuses, but, I am not exaggerating when I say that condition of plugs is "as new".
Also, I did check ignition switch via multimeter (unfortunately part is not available locally, so until it arrives from ebay..) and I did not noticed any electric problems (12-15 tests).
We'll see when problem appears again (and it will).
Thanks
 
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