02 sensor reading & values

Hi all, new here,look forwards to views and help, return the favour may be one day.

K12 56 plate micra 1.2, eng code p0132 B1 S1.

I know i can carry out resistance checks across 2 pins in the sensor to check operating range,does any one know wether i can do the same for the micra's.

Look forwards to any views and comments.
cheers bazz
 

jowley

Ex. Club Member
hi the best thing to do is erase the code and if it comes on replace it. ive done quite a few on the k12s its normally the heated part that causes the problem
 
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Thanks for your views, the heated circuit is showing resistance, not sure what spec should be, and on my scanner the sensor shows supply voltages 2.49, when viewed inwave form, it does not appear to be switching on & off.
Will let you know how i get on, cheers.
 
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Any nissan techs on here, would appreaite some help please,code p0132 - 02 signal high bank 1 sensor 1
NEW SENSOR FITTED.
 
Assuming you are still using the factory narrow band sensors the range can be checked by running the engine up to operating temp first.

The sensor wire can then be tapped into with a multimeter at which point it should oscilate between 0 and 1.1v or thereabouts as it switched from rich to lean.

The sensor should have two grey wires - earths/grounds for the heater and the sensor.
One black wire - the sensor wire
One white wire - the heater power wire.

Turn the ignition on and wait for up to a minute just to be sure and tap the white wire and one of the ground wires( doesn't matter which) to determine if it is getting 12v.

If yes then keeping the ground wire connected tap the black wire and you should get a voltage reading indicating that the sensor has activated (is up to temp).

Keeping the multi attached and away from the cooling fan start the engine.

The voltage reading on the multi should switch to voltages either side of the midpoint ( generally .49 to .56 of a volt) to show that it is sending enrichening/leaning signals to the ecu.

If their is no voltage change after 5 minutes of the engine running at temp then the sensor is either fouled or shorted to the heater circuit and should be replaced.

Bear in mind that the colour coding I am using as a reference in this matter is from an Australian delivered vehicle and may be different in other markets.

In any case you will have two wires that are the same colour (earths/grounds) one signal wire and one power wire.
 
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Thank you for your views Bombardier, it is appreiated, my new fitted sensor (which may have been supplied faulty) is fitted and showing no voltage,as soon as you crank the engine and it idle's, my sensor voltages according to my scanner are 2.49volts continous, NO ALTERNATING value at all.

If i remeber, sensor 2 was reading 2.49volts aswell.... so may be i have a wiring issue or worse, an ECU issue.
 

frank

Club Member
i think the precat sensor should swing around .5v at cruise bazz and the postcat one should read continuous rich once the cat is warm
 
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Hi all, showing continous 2.45-2.49 volts either way, wiring diagram shows no continuity for oxy sensor pin 2 to pin 35 ecu (should be) so possibly a wire fault.
Gona buy another new sensor and fit and see what happens,also thinking about bridging 3 wires at oxy sensor to ecu and see if this cures the problem.

Who has fitted sensors before ?? did you use genuine at £150 each or pattern at approx £80.
I have fitted a (ngk) NTK 0ZA603-N2.

Had to disconnect sensor 1 now, as the car does not want to run properly,so could still be a sensor problem or wiring deffect.
 
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I have to admit, i have not heard of 'wide band sensors', being in the trade, our dealer machine gives us oxy codes we change and all is sorted,this is 1st 1 i have had to do some investigating with, earning a bit of pocket money here and there ;) outside work.

New sensor arrived, fitting sunday, will check again continuity of the 2 wires to the ECU aswell, if it dont sort, then removing sensors, he will refit his sensor with faulty heater circuit and will close the job off.

Will then send my 2 bought NEW sensors back to NTK (ngk) for testing to confirm they are ok. Will update with findings as and when.
 
Narrow band ( 0 to 1v ) switch from rich to lean on the midpoint.

Wide band (0 to 5v) are more linear in that they give an actual output to the ecu to allow it to adjust. They also need recalibrating periodically and are more expensive.



P0032 1T: O2 (B1 S1) Heater Circuit High Conditions: Key on; system voltage over 10.6v; ASD relay on; O2 heater "off". The
PCM detected the O2 Heater circuit is out of range high. Possible Causes: O2 heater element is damaged or the heater has
failed O2 heater control circuit is open or it is shorted to power O2 heater ground circuit is open PCM has failed.
 
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Did some internet searching: wideband sensors have 5 or more wires seemingly,the 1 im working with has 4 wires, the guys sensor has a failed heater circuit: so we fitted new,5+ days later we are experiencing runing problems,start her up,let her idle, then after about 1 minute the idle is irratic, unplug the new sensor,and it runs smooth on idle and running,so assuming the new sensor has failed, so fitting another new sensor today and see what happens.

My contact hasnt supplied me genuine pin data connection yet and there is nothing on my snap on scanner, so i amworking with a K12 disc bought off that great sale place .......

Info off disc:
oxy sens BLACK wire pin 3 goes direct to ECU pin 74 (gnd02) (assume gnd to mean ground)
oxy sens BROWN wire pin 2 goes direct to ECU pin 35 (02SFR)
oxy sens YELLOW wire pin 1 goes direct to ECU pin 24 (02HFR)
oxy sens PINK wire pin 4 fed via ign switch on and FUSE 10a (53)

1-pin 3 - 74 should have continuity
connected my short detecter (snap on) and sent a current down this line, no short problems.
2-pin 35 - 2 should have continuity
connected my short detecter (snap on) and sent a current down this line, no short problems. ( need to redo this test)
3-pin 35 - ground, should be NO continuity
pin 2 - ground, should be no continuity.
Again using my short detecter kit: no shorts to ground.

I was thinking about of possibly fitting new sensor wires direct to the ecu for testing,but with the disc NOT coming direct from NISSAN,i dont want to blow any ECU's,i would have to sit and unpick the loom in places to confirm the wire connections to ecu,by then i would have traced the wire all the way to the ecu, then could resistance check any way for faults,if the wiring is good and senser is good then possible ecu problem.

Test doing today aswell, incase i missed anything:
1-ignition on - 02 plug disconnected -terminal 4 & earth = BATTERY VOLTAGE
2-plug disconnected - resistance terminals 1 & 4 = 3.3-4.0 OHMS
3-plug connected - engine idling - terminal 2 & earth = 0 - 1 VOLT FLUCTUATING
 
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Not sure if should post this, ok my client says to remove new sensor as did not cure and i fitted his old breakers yard unit which is faulty.

So going to look at setting up bench test for these 2 NEW NTK (prt no: 0ZA603-N2) sensors i have,cheaper than the dealer £150, if they work fine, i will sell on to who wants at trade cost £57.30, that what is cost me,no extra's.
The original sensor that the owner removed after cutting the wiring was 0ZA603-N2, then he fitted breakers yard unit which found out after fitting to be faulty,then i came along, tried 2 new sensors, no joy, so fitted his breakers unit back.

Since discovered the vehicle was accident damaged, so there may be a wiring loom or ecu fault on his car making my sensors ok hopefully.

1 sensor has done 55 mile the other has done 6 mile road test only.

Pointless me keeping them, so if any 1 is after any sensors, drop me a pm.

Regards andy veh.techy toyota
 
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update on sensors

Ok,sensors have been returned back to supplier which inturn go back to Germany and will be placed on BURNER RIG to test,if good, i get them back, if faulty i get a full credit,that is the reply direct from NTK part of NGK,not costing my anything... not even postage,will let you know what the end result is on the sensors and if the guy contacts me again for other work or tells me what was wrong.

Cheers for all those who commented,much appreaited.

Baz
 
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Hi all, just done a snapon seminar course which showed cut up 02 sensors to see inside and diagrams showing how they work, prior to going into hospital, my supplier aint contacted me yet to say had back, ihave just emailed the manufactuerer to confirm if sensors are good how do they come back: sealed/ticket tosay good etc etc.

I dont want my supplier to simply dispose of sensors and give me 2 new 1's,i need to know, i dont have an account with my supplier, so if an item fails, then i have to buy the replacement while the failed item is sent away for testing/confirmation.

Wait for NGK relpy,then will contact supplier next week all being well.

Cheers to all those who have assisted.

Bazz
 
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ok people,hgk have rung me : good service (Y), and nattered, no visual faults so sent bact to germany for burner rig testing : NO FAULTS, so next is to contact supplier to claim units back.

A piece of advise discovered in a trade magazine write up discovered by NGK: you have to replace front & rear sensors in the system, also sometimes the rear sensor can fail which nocks the front out, so by replacing sensor 2 sensor 1 now works correctly, so looks like a good idea to actually replace both sensors at the same time, which falls into a conversation i have had in the past with a nissan techy, they replace both sensors at the same time.

Just thought i would relay the info on, so just waiting on my unneeded 2x ngk original spec number sensors to be located and returned to me,added to my other unneeded items.

Cheers baz
 
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