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there could be a broken wire between the door and A-post

Depends on where you try I suppose. At that time motor factor (1), fyfes was £55 +vat, Motor factor (2) Paints & Components was £32 +vat! ....didn't even bother with the unfriendly oafs at the local Nissan Stealers

If its anything like my old micra (it had more holes in the x-member/front panel than swiss cheese), the whole lot needs stripped, and a new complete panel welded in. the whole front panel cost less than £40 inc VAT, but that was THREE years ago!!

Yep, leave it in gear and with the parking brake OFF, cos the shoes will bind with the drums if the car is left sit for a period of time with the Parking brake on

I agree with stani. Replace the beggar and be done with it, cos a welder will blow holes in the rotten one: - been there, done that, only I replaced the complete front panel, due to the corrosion around the h/lamps

most aftermarket immobilisers cut TWO circuits. The usual circuits to find them on are Fuel pump and either power to coil or Excitor wire on starter motor

It sounds like you have a combined alarm/immobiliser which is R/C activated. It will take a lot of time to remove if you go that route. I had to do it on my XR3i 10 or 12 years ago, I think it took me 5 or 6 hours to remove it and solder/insulate all the connections to get the car running again!

I'd fibreglass the hole in the door and use a little filler to tidy it up if you're going to paint the rust spots on the roof anyway (helfrauds do a quite good colour match in cans of spray-paint (I've got them for a few different jobs). X-member is the thing I'd give a good coat of schutz or...

They would be ok if they are the genuine or OEM part

Mine was the motor:It had no intermittent and when on full , if you put the stalk to off the motor ran on, then stopped in the middle of the screen

:DI dunno if it was only in my head or not, but I thought the facelifted 1999 K11 felt sturdier, cos I had it first, then bought my sister's 97 micra. Maybe the newer one wasn't built in sunderland though! LOL :D :D:D and NO I'M NOT A GEORDIE SUPPORTER :D:D

Have you looked below the bonnet of a Corsa, cos there is very little inner wing, most of wot u see is the arch liner!. To be perfectly honest I had one, and I didn't feel any safer than in either of the micra's I owned (maybe thats cos I was used to driving the wife's audi's, golf's, etc...)...

Is this the 1.6 ECU from a primera / almera. ? also has it NATS?

Stick to what you know mate; metros,corsas and fiestas worse for rot than the micra

NATS 2 came in in 1996, cos mine was built late 96, registered Jan 97

:D:D:D You forgot the lumps of torn flesh and bloody knuckles come out of your hands lol :D:D:D

Now you mention it Stani, I had to replace those connectors on my wee sister's micra about 4 yrs ago (I robbed the replacements from a Toyota Starlet, guess what: no bother since) lol

I checked Autodata today for you and they say: alternator output should be 14.1-14.7v, also alternator output @ engine speed is 65A/14v@5000RPM Did you try a voltage output with your headlamps or rear window heater on?

RENAULT is what happened! They took over and everything was built to a price not a standard. Just before Christmas 09, our Anne-Maries 04 K12 has less than 25k from new, and woops, the dreaded plasticine cam chain jinx struck The unfriendly local Nissan/Renault stealers then produced a bill...

Test the output of your alternator should be around 13.5v, sounds like your alternator cant take the power drain when the headlamps are on