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Hi Cullen Micras are prone to rotting at the rear sills (a search on a previous post of mine shows pics). A car that age check all over for rot. Service items are cheap as well as brake components (pad/discs/calipers/shoes) Sunroofs can leak. There is a drain pipe from the appature that end in...

Hi The front shocks will need a bracket on to attach the drop link. Marked in red on the diagram. The rear requires an extra hole on the chassis next to the item coloured red/blue. As for oil/gas they may have been updated to gas, you just need the extra bracket on the front shock tube.

Also no rev counter on 1.0s

The facelift we have 2002 model doesn't have ABS.

Hi The dash layout was slightly different. A different bonnet/grill/headlights. The only version ULEZ compliant as far as I know is the k11 facelift 1.0l manual with coil packs currently (Check required) if this is of any concern to you.

I've had this code on a modern car. It was the Cat that needed replacing.

Looks a great meet up. Pity it's 150 miles away for me.

Decided to replace the drive belts today. PAS no Aircon! Belt no. 4PK725 pas pump/water 6PK673 alternator belt. The PAS belt is awkward to reach even from underneath. After loosening the 2 lower pump bolts there is a 12mm lock bolt further up. Once this is loosened there is a 12mm tensioning...

I have used various cleaners. Wynns seems to be ok if that's available to you. They do seem to improve running but no doubt there are there naysayers that say it's snake oil. Use a good quality fuel as well, E5 if you have that available.

I take it you mean antiroll bars? There is one on the front. The rear is a panard rod that goes diagonally across the rear axle. The springs are the same for all models.

Hi Sandy New sump on eBay are £45-£50. Plus gaskets and oil & filter as the sump will need to be drained anyway. Should take around an hour to do. I would think approx £200/£250.

Sorry to dig up an old thread had this problem as well. Lever spring was like new. Took the gear linkage UJ off cleaned and lubricated refitted and the lever still wouldn't spring back. I backed off both the linkage nuts enough to get some free play then added a second nut to lock against each...

The link below looks to be what you are describing. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144829841112?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1SrKr9l7SkO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=nrD4jS4UQk-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hi Clean the rust away, this will leave a bigger repair than is currently visable. Welding a fillet behind is good if you can get to it easily. Treat the area with cure rust or similar. Then fill and sand back. (The hole could be bridged with fibreglass matting!!!) Paint match can be an issue...

Do you know when was the coolant was last changed? I've found coolant looses it's colour and becomes murky looking after a long time. May be worth flushing the system and putting fresh coolant in if you haven't already done so.

I haven't done a K11 one. I did buy an after market one for a classic I have and if the washers are not used for a while the motor sticks and needs freeing off. I now always use ready mixed washer fluid as it has less impurities than tap water that can congeal and corrode the pump.

It's a K11. The S is the standard base model.

Hi Steve. Have you got a K12?

Great our later K11 stereo the display no longer works.

It sounds as if a replacement stalk is required. Hopefully this can be achieved without removing the steering wheel.