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Others haven't but my rad got re-cored (higher fin count etc) but one of the other things they did was convert the rad to a triple pass. Thier thought was the water was passing through the rad too quickly, you may be able to do the same by slowing that pump down and avoiding the temptation to...

I and many others have used mini radiators on our micra engined mini conversions so it should cool adequately, you may want to add a fan though, mine was a Spal fan, a bit more expensive but fits beautifully. You can see it here...

Happy to be corrected but afaik UEL headers are only really about sound, performance wise you'd ideally have equal length tubes to promote scavenging and generally 4-1 and short for top end hp and 4-2-1 and longer for low end torque.

CVs generally knock worse whilst turning towards that side and under acceleration, when going straight they are often quieter.

I've pretty simply and easily converted my mini conversion back to a hydraulic clutch using the qg engine clutch pivot, I haven't tested it but from looking at it I'd be surprised if the clutch master from the qg engined car didn't bolt up to the firewall. It might give you the clutch weight...

Try talking to these guys: http://www.cvt.co.nz/ As you might guess they're in New Zealand so relatively close to Australia, but seem the best source of help with these CVTs, still repairs don't seem cheap...

Yes, just unbolts, I'd also replace the o ring where it goes into the waterpump as they tend to leak once disturbed.

I think I remember someone saying the rear hinges on the 5 doors are the same as the fronts but because they are used far less don't get as worn, a cheap alternative could be to find some rear hinges at a wreckers and fit those.

I realise you're probably in the UK and it may not be the most useful but it may help. https://www.cvt.co.nz/ https://cvt-parts.co.nz/overhaul-kit-electromagnetic-clutch/

Some have had the fuel filler pipe corrode and leak, it's up under the guard and gets mud and rubbish thrown up at it.

Yeah, probably see how long it'd take to get a replacement first, trouble is going to be marking 5 degree offsets accurately and if it's moved once it's likely to move again.

They have a rubber sleeve that forms the harmonic balancer, I've heard they can move and effect timing that seems like what's happened here. Your best bet would be to get a replacement harmonic balancer either new or a replacement 2nd hand item.

They are both the GA block so I'd say physically fitting the engine will be the same as the ga16 the wiring for the ga15de is very similar so I think this could possibly use the k11 wiring loom but you'd need to check. Engine mount at the timing chain end and clearance on the chassis leg are...

It did on mine, btw car still runs if the connection is broken(if your tacho breaks the car would still run), somehow... but gives an error code, seems the ecu monitors the return from the coil. You can intercept the wire closer to the ecu of it's easier for your wiring.

A leak down test to see if the cooling system holds pressure would be a good diagnostic, the water pump seals can leak so look for coolant coming from the small holes on the water pump. There's an O ring on the hard water pipe that goes into the back of the water pump housing that can leak...

I'd recommend you get someone to look at them but what look like small micro cracks can appear on the surface of the rotors but don't mean the rotors need replacing if the crack goes deeper or runs from the inside to the outside of the rotor then it's a different matter. Don't just take my word...

Having done a conversion unless ordering a kit to do it (which gizfab may be doing) this approach can be very difficult as you're essentially guessing the engine positioning for your driveshaft lengths, I'd expect your car to be apart for quite some time depending on complexity and how much time...

As a manual car guy I understand the reasons to want a manual but when I drove a CVT micra I was very impressed, it easily beat most things off the lights and just seemed effortless. Reliability ended up being it's undoing, but I just couldn't justify spending what it needed to get it back to...

Coming from Australia where all the model names are different as well I'd suggest trying to navigate all the different changes to what these cars were in the UK. A sentra in the US is a Pulsar in Australia which seems to be either an almera or primera in the UK but some of our pulsars came from...

If you find a computer repair or electronics store or something like that they will probably know someone that could have a look for you. Yours would be a NATS anti-theft system so you can't just swap ECUs.