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Of you remove the bumper theres a gromet on the n/s

You should never have to adjust the idle screw, most likely cause is coked up idle air control valve

Check the fuse for the alternator, because for an alternator to work you have to suply it a 12v feed (the little wires) k11's have issues with the connectors on the fuse block corroding, also does the battery light illuminate?

To get the refrigerant recovered properly if any is left in it

If its when warm, I would suggest the o2 sensor(s)

Sorry. But have you read the technical bulletin?

Worth a try, only other thing I can suggest off the top of my head is was it raining or anything as the ecm's often get water dripping down into them from poor sealing firewall. Check ecm for corrosion internally lol. Although ear muffs sounds like a way easier better plan :p

Check the fuses near the battery, the connectors often corrode and cause this fault, and various others

You can remove the relay and short the two contacts in the socket with wire

The correct way to check oil level is through speedo/sensor hole anyway so might as well do that. As there is a concern of overfilling via fill hole causing difficulty to engage gear

The reason there is no codes is because your using a generic code reader, some of the nissan specific codes are not shown on generic ones. Id advise getting it checked by a diag computer peferably by main dealer

There not normally a problem, you might want to check for foreign objects in the fuel tank, that are getting into pump, and that the filter on end isnt blocking quickly

Disconnect the earth and put an ammeter/current meter in serries with the earth connection and see how many amps are being drawn

Im in a main dealer college, but in my opinion you learn a whole lot more in a workshop, the scrapyard sounds like a very good start. I started helping my mate build banger cars for racing. Just ask around at local garages and speak to the old techs lol :p they know way more than any college tutor.

we are a nissan main dealer so see alot of micras, and we had a difference in opinions so we asked the ministry themselves, they said it was a pass and advise only, as it is not structural

the front cross member isn't MOT failable, and doesn't really do that much apart from hold the radiator, the other cross member that only stabilize's the engine. no real weight on it. i really wouldn't worry about it unless its pretty much fell apart

the horn doesn't have a negative as is bolted to the chassis, so its chassis earthed, use a relay to feed it

use a relay, so the car finder wire feeds the relay, then the relay feeds the horn

on the vast majority of cars they have something that's called chassis ground, which means that the negative off the battery goes straight to the car body meaning that all the bodywork is earthed. so you can pick up an earth off most bolts and screws, as the dashboard has a earthed metal frame...

all looks to be pretty good, it is bottom left ones, if you turn the ignition on itll do a bulb test, which just turns on that little red led, then short the two wires for at least 2 seconds, after removing link, it should flash five long five short which is code 55 which means its not the...