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Breaking/scrapping...

£40 with mounting brackets and ISO/DIN wiring adapter and antenna adaptor

£10 horn works with a simple tapped hole and screw to extend the steering column floating contact, passes MOT

£15 mounted 4 terminal wiring for quick disconnect, and connection to original connector in boot

£25 Includes centre horn push switch and mounting screws to mount to steering wheel boss

£30

£50

Yeah, I'll try to get some pictures when it's not raining. My whole body was broken after a full day wrestling it off/out of the car, so couldn't do anything today! Will PM pics and post here soon as.

Probably all collection only in Manchester (except small bits that are easy to post like steering wheel/boss, air box) Janspeed 4-2-1 manifold with working MAF sensor SOLD Janspeed full stainless steel exhaust and back box (full decat) + custom modded Mini centre cat to pass MOT SOLD...

some people use an impact wrench/driver to get them off, that's one method - quick off... the other way is to stop the damper rod spinning by clamping mole grips on the damper rod (to be able to stop it spinning) and then use a swan neck spanner or deep socket on the top nut. I did it the...

aren't NodSpeed panhard rods just made by Noddy on here? I have one too and pretty sure I just asked for one and paid him direct... can't remember off the top of my head though, seems like ages ago, lol Sent from my Nexus 6P using Micra Sports Club mobile app

I got this set of splaying end bearing pullers: The middle one down on the left made short work of getting the layshaft bearing races out. Just a few hammer slides did it. I think the splayed end things are key in getting a grip on the back of the races. I had to smash up the oil feed thing...

ah yeah I saw a few people do welds to pull... unfortunately I can't weld, although I could have bought a welder and paid for a welding course with the amount spent on welding for MOTs over the years, lol

I'm plodding away at a snail's pace with the gearbox bearing replacement and managed to get the input shaft bearings out/off, and the diff bearing outer races, but I have a 3 size set of 3-arm bearing pullers which are too fat-fingered to pull the tapered bearings off (as there's only a tiny bit...

Get enough people in the back of the car, or load the boot up (or both) until the car lowers by 35mm... then see how the wheel to arch offset looks, and decide if it's acceptable. It's not really a lot, I found it starting offsetting past what I thought was ok at about 40-50mm lowered

I've managed to snap the plastic tabbed thing off the switch (#3 in http://nissan4u.com/parts/micra/el_k11e/1996_1/type_24/power_train/transmission_case_and_clutch_release/illustration_2/ ). I guess it might still work, but I'm worried it will only be held in by friction like a lid on a tin of...

I've got a trolley jack and the factory scissor jack. The engine is held up with some blocks of wood on the centre support, so I can probably struggle with the two jacks in the way of each other, lol. Cheers for the pointers :)

I think 98 is the facelift year, so before that should be a straight swap. I've just taken the gearbox of my 96 1.0, which required the left driveshaft completely out and right driveshaft popped out the gearbox end. I also saw someone say you don't need to remove the gearbox to replace the...

Got the bastard out finally. Turns out I hadn't removed all the bolts from the rear bracket. Took a while to find the last couple! Thankfully the right hand driveshaft was easier to pop out than the left, as there was barely any room to lever it off. Not looking forward to re installing it, but...

cool, I've now got the K10 Haynes manual and some K11 service manuals, so in a lot better position for disassembly/reassembly! just need to smash it off with a screwdriver first lol Sent from my Nexus 6P using Micra Sports Club mobile app