Had a break down yesterday, called out the RAC and after 6 hours sat at the side of the road ended up getting recovered by a friend.
didn’t even get a patrol out to see if my diagnosis was correct.
fuel pump IS dead, new one is on order, should be back on the road by Wednesday.
Anyone else had...
This is my micra engined trike with bike trailer.
most of our luggage went in the roof bag attached to the rear, this might be another option and cheaper. it’s also easy to store, they fold up into a bag that will fit into a drawer somewhere.
I have already done the manual to auto conversion and being a Trike not a car things are a lot easier. Just wondered what drops into a micra engine bay as that is the same size as my engine bay.
Currently running K11 1.3 auto, just wanted a bit more power.
She runs warm, not hot. The fan comes on more than I feel it should. This is why I feel the need to change the radiator to something that fits in to the air flow better and away from the exhaust manifold ( currently about 2-3cm), if I could turn it on it’s side that would be the perfect...
What temperature thermostat would I need?
it’s the shape of the original radiator that’s not helping within the engine bay, I’m thinking about a full width rear moun rad with a oil cooler at the front.
It’s a new switch system, the original ignition switch wiring through a relay operated by a bike switch.
the new relay operates but sometimes nothing else happens. Seems ok when warm which is why I’m suspicious of the original relays.
Anyone know why the engine doesn’t always start on the key?
it’s got a new starter motor and wiring but it still is a bit hit or miss, I’m suspecting the inhibit relay but are there any other relays that I need to look at?
Thinking of changing the radiator on the trike to improve cooling, to do this I might have to split the oil cooling from the main coolant radiator.
I have 2 places for the radiator to go but they have partially blocked air flow (rider and passenger).
does anyone know what capacity the oil cooler...
The automatic does drain power a bit but it’s not too bad, many of the engine mods can be used but it will cause wear quicker If you abuse it.
the cvt gearbox takes a bit of getting used to, allow it to Rev up then back off a bit seems to be the best way.
we went for the weight reduction route...
Steel box frame attached to the engine mounts with original suspension, brakes and wheels.
all the covering is ally, with stainless grille at the front of the engine housing.
should have it sorted by spring time if you start soon.
It’s less about bleeding and more about pumping.
fill it up to normal levels and squeeze the radiator hoses like you are pumping, it should push the coolant round. Repeat until the levels stop dropping, then run the car until warm keeping an eye on the temperature and levels.