Gearbox issues micra k12 manual

Apologise if this has been posted before but couldn't find anything on it.

My girlfriend is having issues with her micra. It is increasing harder to get in to gear. You really have to force the gears to get them to go in. It is hard to get the gears in when the engine is on or off. So don't think is is a clutch issue. The oil looks clean and is at the correct level. The linkages that I can see on top of the gearbox look fine. When I put the car into gear using them it is also difficult. I imagine it is something within the gearbox that is the problem.

Any ideas would be a great help?
 
Gearboxes are seriously tough so unless your girlfriend has sledge hammer gear changes I'd still assume another, simpler problem until proven otherwise.

Bit hard for you to check it yourself, but how is the gear linkage? Does the gearstick have a lot of slop when in neutral or is it firm? The gear linkages may be fine but the bushes may be worn. I'll make the assumption that your girlfriend does mostly town driving because this would fit the symptom. Even when the engine is off a sticking clutch and bad release bearing that has been all greased out can cause hard to change gears even when the engine is off if it isn't engaging and disengaging properly.

I don't recall if the clutch on a k12 is hydraulically operated by a slave cylinder or a clutch cable. Worth checking if you can adjust this. Is the clutch high? Does it grind when it goes into reverse? Do you double clutch to change gears sometimes?

There are other things that can cause these issues like work gears or burnt oil, even if it is full. These however are far less likely than a faulty clutch release bearing eating into the pressure plate. I have personally seen this 95% of the time and the symptoms manifest themselves in all kinds of bizzare ways.

Can you change gears when the engine is off but at operating temperature easily?
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
This sounds just like the problem that I had with my K12 shortly after buying it
(from a woman driver who obviously never put the car in neutral at traffic lights etc, but rode the clutch). One of the flat pressure plate support springs broke, causing the diaphragm to twist and the clutch to drag and barely release. I (and a mate) removed the gearbox and fitted a new 3 piece LUK clutch. And yes to Max, the K12 does have a hydraulic clutch release mechanism, it is a co-axial slave cylinder with integral release bearing,
$_10.JPG

also all changed with the new clutch pressure and friction plates...
 
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Thank you guy so much for the replys, very appreciated. So sounds like it may be the clutch after all.

Just throwing it out there just in case it could cause the problem. Her engine is slightly wobbly and I think an engine mount could have possible gone. Would this cause a problem like the one she is having?

Before I change the clutch I will have a look through the linkages though and make sure it isn't anything simple. John_D you happen to have a step by step guide to changing the clutch or know where one is if I do happen to end up changing it?
 
I haven't used a guide before. What you essentially need to do is remove anything around the bell housing in order to remove the gearbox. This usually includes various cables and cold air intakes. Be careful with the rubber boot on the slave, last thing you need is to pour brake fluid all over the driveway.

Engine mounts can cause juddering at low speeds as if the car is about to stall... wouldn't affect the gearbox or clutch that I've known about.

LUK clutch kits are good... gear linkage is pretty tough stuff but it can fail...
 
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Beautiful. That should be a nice fun job for me to do next week.

I have looked at the LUK clutch kit and they are really cheap as well. Always a bonus. I suppose I can always look at the mount during the process and see if it is in need of changing
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
What you need as a guide is the 'Haynes book of lies', currently available on eBay for about £13 inc p&p
 
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