K11 autograss wiring

Trying to wire my autograss / hotrod micra so it will just start and run , dont need lights heater etc... Does anyone have a diagram that will show me how to do so? Any help is appreciated , thanks
 
if it prefaclift nate, you need the ecu/enginebay loom and some of the wires in the 2 plugs next to the ecu need splicing too, and a separate loom that goes from the batt to the starter/oilpressure switch/alternator.
has it got nats ?
 
those wires you need to splice will be the ecu relay, fuelpump relay, dashlights, ign switch, temp gauge, and injector fuse i guess mate :)
 
Junk the lot. keep only the engine loom. The 2 block connectors you should have left should be black and white. ignore the black one. On the white plug you have a thick white/green wire, a thick green/white wire and a mediun Black/yellow wire. Join these together and run 12v ignition feed. Wire the pump seperatly off a master switch. Engine will run!!!!. Thats all we use now in our hotrods...very simple, no issues at all with running in 2 years. Of course, in an ideal world you would have it all fused etc but nobody i know does and we havent burnt any cars out yet!!!. Alternator is simple too, big wire back to battery and if your alternator has 4 pins then bridge the middle 2 into a normal red ignition bulb. Car will charge normally. This all works fine, i run digital gauges in my own car for volts, oil pressure, water temp. charges perfectly normally. If you have to run a kill switch (good idea) then make sure your alternator feed does go straight back to the battery. If you put it back to the main live on, say for example, the starter, you will find that when you hit the kill switch the car will stay running. Alot of people caught out in scrutineering last year over here with that problem. I can get pics for you if you want but it is very simple to wire the micra looms
 
. If you have to run a kill switch (good idea) then make sure your alternator feed does go straight back to the battery. If you put it back to the main live on, say for example, the starter, you will find that when you hit the kill switch the car will stay running.

im looking to relocate my battery to the boot an fit a kill switch for piece of mind, does this mean i need to run the altenator live back to the battery?
or would it be different for a k10?
 
im looking to relocate my battery to the boot an fit a kill switch for piece of mind, does this mean i need to run the altenator live back to the battery?
or would it be different for a k10?
you could run the alternator lead to the starter feed adam (the solenoid) has yours got the smaller alt lead that goes to the autochoke ?
 
Not sure :S
well its relevant :p because my k10 had that wire directly to the autochoke, so that if you left the ign on without starting the car, then the bi-metalic choke mech would only function once the car had actually started (when the alt was producing current)
 
Junk the lot. keep only the engine loom. The 2 block connectors you should have left should be black and white. ignore the black one. On the white plug you have a thick white/green wire, a thick green/white wire and a mediun Black/yellow wire. Join these together and run 12v ignition feed. Wire the pump seperatly off a master switch. Engine will run!!!!. Thats all we use now in our hotrods...very simple, no issues at all with running in 2 years. Of course, in an ideal world you would have it all fused etc but nobody i know does and we havent burnt any cars out yet!!!. Alternator is simple too, big wire back to battery and if your alternator has 4 pins then bridge the middle 2 into a normal red ignition bulb. Car will charge normally. This all works fine, i run digital gauges in my own car for volts, oil pressure, water temp. charges perfectly normally. If you have to run a kill switch (good idea) then make sure your alternator feed does go straight back to the battery. If you put it back to the main live on, say for example, the starter, you will find that when you hit the kill switch the car will stay running. Alot of people caught out in scrutineering last year over here with that problem. I can get pics for you if you want but it is very simple to wire the micra looms
hi mate I know it's a very old thread but am on this stage now, I have a preface and keeping the inteoir loom, and for the engine I took the loom off as for a Diffrent engine conversion, I have 3 contectors near the ecu 2 black and 1 brown, if I wanted to converted this into a Diffrent swap which will I need ? For example fuel pump wire, ground, ign switch wire, ? What about the heater how will i wire that on car ? Thanks for any advice
 
My alternator has 2 wires a blue and a yellow and red and the main big wire going to the battery how do I wire up a light to the alternator to make it work again its a 2001.
 
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