what did you do to your micra today ?

Put a trolley on it.. :D

32147_4253345453015_263255148_n.jpg


 
Jen319 said:
...well?.... :p
when I can afford to chuck money at someone to sort out my paintwork...I'l think about it LOL
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Yayyyyy.


Solved the issue located a strange split connector for the 12 volt line, main power distribution and the alt input. It had burnt and plastic melted between connectors causing power shorts and weak and intermittent power levels. Now getting 14 volts.

well sit on my face and call me terry
 
Tchaaa said:
Jen you've got it easy, your car is white! When you get a scratch just whack out the tipex!
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It's a shame standard tipex (other correction fluids are available) is actually Whiter than the Nissan Arctic white 326 after 7 years on the road LOL ^_^

Hey Dougyledds, thats cute :p
one of the stories my good ol' K10 came with was the previous owner came home to find a bunch of drunk kids had put wheel barrow on the roof...He kept the wheel barrow LOL
 
Looked at cv boot today. Noticed spray of grease on bulkhead. So it's split again. Best get a correct one and not a stretchy boot. Lol

I rang up motor parts. Lower arm £29 not bad...

Complete n/s Driveshaft £77.51 :eek:

So just gonna strip Driveshaft and regrease hope for the best.
 
Jay101 said:
Looked at cv boot today. Noticed spray of grease on bulkhead. So it's split again. Best get a correct one and not a stretchy boot. Lol

I rang up motor parts. Lower arm £29 not bad...

Complete n/s Driveshaft £77.51 :eek:

So just gonna strip Driveshaft and regrease hope for the best.
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you need to raise that g/box like mine jay, for less acute driveshaft angles, (as a result of lowering) :)
WDID ? slid by ball up my shaft ! you have to heat the plastic ball a bit to soften it, then shove :) ghetto quickshift ftw

P1150569.JPG
 
frank said:
it straightens it joe :) the engine leans down to the nearside normally
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Wonder why they did that... Cant help oil flow for one thing... ahh well! I'm not too low yet so i'll save this for later!

All i did today was drive to work and wonder if the 1.3 cams really made much difference?
 
JoeK11 said:
So i could shift the cams 1 link to change timing? Forgive ignorance but which direction would advance? (i keep confusing myself working it out)
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most likely about half a tooth joe, the chains tend to stretch such that you can usually turn the crank about 4+ notches on the pulley (20+ deg) while holding a cam from turning, which means that the cams are retarded by the slack in the chains eh.
you will need to check the exh closing and inlet opening events near tdc, (described in that link) to asses how much to file the dowels down (or fit adjustable sprockets) :)
 
Right, that'll be another long day in the garage :p and moving them so that (rotating clockwise) they open sooner than before would be advancing for more lower down power?
Thing is much as i love ragging it i do a LOT of motorways/cruising so really having mid range grunt (or at least an attempt) will make my drive easier and make cruising at 70 less of an effort (hills just drag me back unless i drop to 3rd) so i can just dip a bit more throttle and have power on demand in 5th

I guess using the events to check the closing/opening positions relative to tdc is most accurate for figuring the advance/retard? opening sooner/closing sooner being advanced?
 
JoeK11 said:
Right, that'll be another long day in the garage :p and moving them so that (rotating clockwise) they open sooner than before would be advancing for more lower down power?
Thing is much as i love ragging it i do a LOT of motorways/cruising so really having mid range grunt (or at least an attempt) will make my drive easier and make cruising at 70 less of an effort (hills just drag me back unless i drop to 3rd) so i can just dip a bit more throttle and have power on demand in 5th
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yes clockwise mate :) most members could probably get more gains from optimising the cam settings than any backbox or "spark enhancements" ;)
 
frank said:
yes clockwise mate :) most members could probably get more gains from optimising the cam settings than any backbox or "spark enhancements" ;)
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Great :) that link will be helpful too! Shame i dont have a dyno to play with the results... would your set up of 1mm all round at tdc work for cg13 cams in the 1l? or is that tuned more for drag? (since youre after the 1/4mile title)
 
JoeK11 said:
I guess using the events to check the closing/opening positions relative to tdc is most accurate for figuring the advance/retard? opening sooner/closing sooner being advanced?
Click to expand...
those 2 events will gauge your overlap @ tdc joe, the 1.0 cams are listed duration 196 deg, 16 deg of inlet lag near btc, and 16 deg of exhaust lead near btc, and zero overlap @ tdc (16/0/0/16)
and 1.3 cams are listed 222 duration (42/0/0/42) no theoretical overlap again, but i find that the 1.3 cams usually have some overlap (where all 4 valves are slightly open @ tdc) i usually set them about 15 deg either side of tdc (30 deg of overlap) :)
 
frank said:
those 2 events will gauge your overlap @ tdc joe, the 1.0 cams are listed duration 196 deg, 16 deg of inlet lag near btc, and 16 deg of exhaust lead near btc, and zero overlap @ tdc (16/0/0/16)
and 1.3 cams are listed 222 duration (42/0/0/42) no theoretical overlap again, but i find that the 1.3 cams usually have some overlap (where all 4 valves are slightly open @ tdc) i usually set them about 15 deg either side of tdc (30 deg of overlap) :)
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Is that inlet opening just before tdc and exhaust closing just after?

Sorry if thats exactly wrong i think i'll need a good read up on this when im more awake lol, not good at 6am start and work at 7, my head thinks its past midnight!
 
JoeK11 said:
Is that inlet opening just before tdc and exhaust closing just after?

Sorry if thats exactly wrong i think i'll need a good read up on this when im more awake lol, not good at 6am start and work at 7, my head thinks its past midnight!
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heh :) yeh, its the exhaust almost shut, and the inlet starting to open mate
 
Yeah thats what i thought :) (might even be what i said too!) mind you considering the slack you mentioned its gonna be hard to get that accurate...
Time for me to go price up tools i think, cant take over the mechanics all the time, he'll start charging me to work on my own car! Once i get some tools (torque wrenches mostly) i can play with all this whenever :)
 
as long as you always turn the engine clockwise, the slack wont factor eh joe, and i just remove the double cap bearing and sprocket, then you can drift the dowel out np (with a cloth to catch it in) :) (22mm socket, 22mm open end, and a 10mm socket eh)
 
frank said:
as long as you always turn the engine clockwise, the slack wont factor eh joe, and i just remove the double cap bearing and sprocket, then you can drift the dowel out np (with a cloth to catch it in) :) (22mm socket, 22mm open end, and a 10mm socket eh)
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Yeah got those already :) i actually got a socket set for christmas! :p dad got tired of me nicking his! Was just thinking a torque wrench to make sure the sprocket retainers are up tight enough, and a mini one for the bearing caps (if i do cams/shims again anytime) and camcover. My old cover leaked like a bitch after a service cause they overtightened and bit right through the seal.

Just thought with your set up, is that inlet advanced and exhaust retarded? Dont they give opposing effects?
 
JoeK11 said:
Just thought with your set up, is that inlet advanced and exhaust retarded? Dont they give opposing effects?
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if you mean that linked pic joe ? the inlet is advanced about half a tooth, and the exhaust advanced a tad (tho its a piper cam), you will probably need to advance them both to correct the chain stretch eh.
and some dyno tests of various settings would be interesting :cool:

81992.jpg
 
Right then, I'll have to get round to that soon then so I can get the most from them. At the moment I can only feel it when I'm revving the nuts off!
 
Just ordered some EBC Green Stuff pads for it. The stock Nissan pads are ridiculous, I practically have to remove the brake dust from the alloys with a spade and I'm seeing yellow staining in the lacquer from the Nissan pad dust at barely 20,000 miles :eek: . Fitting them in the snow this weekend should be fun though eh :D ?
 
Guy said:
Just ordered some EBC Green Stuff pads for it. The stock Nissan pads are ridiculous, I practically have to remove the brake dust from the alloys with a spade and I'm seeing yellow staining in the lacquer from the Nissan pad dust at barely 20,000 miles :eek: . Fitting them in the snow this weekend should be fun though eh :D ?
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I fit GreenStuff pads to my K11, great buy.

Much better braking and don't lock up nearly as easily as the standard ones.
 
Cool, I had them on my previous K12 and really rated them. The diesel doesn't have manifold vacuum so relies on a vacuum pump for the brake booster. I may be wrong but the brakes on the diesel don't feel as peppy as they did on the 160SR so I'm hoping this will sharpen them up a bit as well.
 
Mum's failed it's MOT :rolleyes: (1.4 K12 SVE)
Track rod ends (which we have at home to spare)
number plate bulb (which we have at home to spare)
21" wiper blade (which we checked last night <_< and was fine)

of course my mum being my mum told the garage to do whatever...so she's now £130 lighter...
she dreams of having an advisory list like mine! LOL
 

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