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Skinners Sprint Micra

Today got the ignition timing synced in with the ECU

However I think the TPS min man max are out as it's not retuning to idle when the throttle closes it's reving down VERY slowly so a reset of that and a look at the ignition table is next
 
This to improve drivability or for more power?

A bit of both hopefully, il love to hit the 140bhp mark and it will be a lot more driveable than the carbs. They are a bit like an on off switch, not much progression in the throttle. Now I should be able to keep much smoother throttle in bends rather than going into a bend and throttling it on the way out :)
 
TTV one from mate Chris, 2.8kg if I remember right, revs well and iv never had a problem in town with it
yeah anyone who says they cant drive a light weight and its do aggressive can hop lol. Just got to adapt the method eh. reckon ur setup helps bring that rev up faster? Recon anything else helps it bring up power faster? seems to breath well.
 
Bloody hell Frank, what's the weight of the drive plate?
dunno karl, 1kg ? no clutch too :)

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Brake question!

Doesn't anyone have any experience using banjo bolts/fittings on a nissan master cylinder?

I'm just wondering if they would seal correctly as the M/S has a concave seat
 
Road ready!......... Nearly!!

2 solid days spent tweaking but iv finally got a filter system to fit.

Brake servo rotated 180deg & a adapter bake line made up to allow a filter and it's still a VERY tight fit.

Having to remove the clutch and brake pedal caused delays & a fresh back plate for the filter was made from scratch but now it's all back togeather

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A few nights this week should see the wiring all tidy and sorted, wideband to be dead to the ECU.

Brakes bless and checked over next Saturday before the wideband gets calibrated for some one the road mapping next Sunday afternoon[/URL]
 
Not much of an update, the fueling is 90% there with the ING map to be gone over this Sunday.

Cars pulling well right up to the limiter at 7k so far, with a temptation to move it up to 7.8k to see if there's much more to be given. No point in ringing it's neck for no reason.

In the mean while the new rubber has arrived :)

 
MAPPING DAY

Well the map seems to be 90% sorted. 4th gear showing the car pulling hard right accross the rev range. 151.1bhp shown on the readout but that's merely road mapping as a rough figure. 135 -140 maybe? But other than pub talk numbers we went with how the car drove.

I can say I'm chuffed so far and with the suspension tweaked & tyres scrubbed in fingers are crossed for some new PB times this year.

Oh and the rear bumper has been drilled to help reduce any drag as well. Lots to do but happy so far

 
Hmmmm mine are the same, I was losing a bit of driveability as I'd reach WOT at 30% pedal movement. Been thinking of changing to smaller ones :-/
 
I was looking at that earlier and I think I might knock up some trumpets but maybe ones that insert into the TB to reduce the size a bit as I can't get much length.
 
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TEST AND TUNE

Today went very well heavy fog made learning the track crucial but lifted after a few hours!

Car went well all day as strong as ever, still amazes me the punishment CG / CGA motors take an still make ready power.

A stupid moment saw me forget the memory card for the Camera :( so a pics all iv got haha
 

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I should mention what I had a go changing!

ARB was set to medium but this lead to even more rear wheel in the air antics an losing grip overall, tyres were set to 28/24 leading to 32/38 when hot.

Damping on the fronts set to full hard but this brought on understear and a light steering so was knocked back 4 clicks.

Spring wise I think maybe stiffer fronts and adjustable damping on the rear might be the next step
 
Depends how the car feels as it stands? That's the key question

Stronger springs up front will lessen the damping affect. You'll find you'll run out of damping for your needs. Stronger front springs will also give you a more understeer ready car overall? As will an uprated ARB.

Did you only gain 4psi up front?

Without stiffening the front to cope with the rear. Try softening the rear overall to lessen its affects and increase the effect of the front

I know what I mean in my head just writing isn't so easy
 
I should say it's was the rear ARB that was adjusted Andy.

Yes 4psi increase on the fronts, to be honest the damping on the front I have a lot of free adjustment, it felt better with a softer damper up front.

The rears arnt reacting fast enough at the moment it's hitting a rise or bump throwing the back into the air and it's not dampening the drop well either
 
Where did you test out of curiosity? Flat grounds etc? Reason I ask is the pressure change for the rears
Softer setups are much better at reacting to bumps etc problem is they can get too vague
Objective being to run as soft as is necessary whilst giving good feedback

Your rears for example are designed for smooth fast track use. Where bumps/drop are foreign entities. At the minute your recipe points to more of an oversteer type than understeer which is odd but given the tyre pressure when warm I can see why
Like many off the shelf suspension options available they all follow a similar code/build. Eg a progressive damping rate with jack down type set up. The problem is with that these days is people are so used to that set up, that when you change to a linear or digressive setup which is also stiffer than normal, as you crossover from road to race, but still soft in terms of it's use it does throw many folk off and takes some getting used to. Ie drive hard to feel the benefit.
That's where you're choice will lie in where to go next, going stiffer will only worsen the affects of bumps, whilst dampers are assumed to do all the damping the initial bump force is absorbed by the spring and converted into kinetic energy etc blah blah

Sometimes tripodding can't be avoided, for example if you wish for a softer setup which allows roll, you'll always drop a wheel in tight turns with short shocks. That said 38psi is incredibly high for a car as light as yours. The rear wouldn't have much trouble letting go at that. I run mine 34/34 when warm.

Over rougher ground, you want soft enough settings to react sufficiently whilst firm enough to give good feedback to the driver, these are digressive setups. (A challenge faced by every manufacturer today to some extent) Something not common nor easy to get from off the shelf parts without spending ££££.
Any ride in a prepped rally car will prove that point although they have very different comp/reb ratios

You're not limited to shocks, springs n tyre pressure to make a big difference. Another way to dramatically change a cars behaviour is track width.
All road cars are designed to understeer their track width dictates so. Changes there can have an effect if it's an u/s or o/s issue that's stopping you
 
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Ta Andy, the cars track carnt change without affecting the class I compete in. I'm sticking to road class for now.

Testing was an airfield track using the return road. The whole setup needs to be Manx/Tarmac Irish/Tarmac B road rally stage friendly. Race/circuit type is no good to me as that's too smooth a setup to be much use. The TT course is a "race track" but it's not smooth, it's cambered and bumpy and patched.

I hadn't realised the rears were a track spec when we sorted them out.

The fronts will go to a 300lb, rear ARB to soft and maybe a 180lb rear with a look at something with damping adjustment.

The rears became so hot with the back end sliding about, there was grip and plenty of it but il get the car handling how I like it as I'm quicker if I'm Comfy with it. This was pushing on at 80+ so it's getting a thorough workout.

This won't happen before the hillclimb this year but more track days are on the cards in the summer to try and perfect bits and bobs
 
Surely a correct shock which allows droop would stop the cocking of a leg? Still can't imagine it's going to be perfect whatever happens.
 
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