awesome, when you do it can you get some measurements so I can tell the machinist at work how much meat to take off? The toolroom guys at work don't trust me to use the big lathe myself, something about setting the swarf on fire...
To be fair I'm exactly the same so I leave it to them lot over here
Yea I'll get some measurements of before and after, then weigh it. And pictures too.
They're mounted in the top of the strut tower itself. Not how I wanted it buts that's how it ended up. But believe me there's room for em on there. Ive got a chunky 6n diesel setup under there and its no problem
You can weld a triangular plate from the top of the strut tower to the inner wing and drill into that (my original idea)
So I took some pictures of that headgasket where it was blocked up baddd
You can see where I cleared some of them
Looks loke this engine wasnt as well maintained as I first thought
These are for Belly93
On my k10 there were small 3/4mm holes already in the top so I drilled them out and popped em in there. The large repair washers are a good recommendation too.
Mine also has a small steel tube on em with garden hose pipe round it to give the bonnet its lift for better airflow
A doddle on a k10 with how the bonnet opens
CUSCO ?! or HWL ??
lucky for u guys over there still got those aftermarket adjustable abs...
here in my place, we need to specially customized our own to suit this model..
and it cost alot.. or another solution, we use to recondition to old one..
Ok so now my dizzys packed in and finding another is a lost cause really I'm going get one modified to fit or rewire a de one using something ive spotted from Lumenition almost like a mega jolt system. But it's about 150 all in
Had pertronix on the spitfire, had solid state instead of points but was a hall effect one. Used stock (well uprated lol) coil so only way you could tell was electronic was one black wire...
Anyone any ideas what the computer chip thing is at the bottom?
And what wires should go to it. Got my black blue wires to coil but there's one missing. Cant for the life of me remember
its a simple 2 condition sensor, on off. It detects magnetic flux which is absent when the slots come round. During the period the slots are under the sensor there should be a break in the signal to the solid state switch, that closes the circuit needed to discharge the coil through the dizzy. No high tech management needed. There should be an ignition module though I think.
Disclaimer: This is based off my installation of pertronix into a spitfire dizzy, and should not be take as gospel but rather a place to start.
Magnetic is cheaper, optical can be set more accurately, or so I've read. I don't see how it makes that much of a difference. Just magnetic can be thrown off by iron filings but optical can be thrown off by anything opaque.