Random missfire/cutoff

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
Hey guys

Got a strange problem with the car. it randomly cuts off or missfires (cylinder 4 i think) randomly. checked gasket and is okay.

It had a K&N filter on it so i replaced it with a standard one and missfire seemed to be much worse. Possibly something air related?

Any ideas where what to check?

Thanks in advance :)
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
Yea I know man. Since mcken got this car. It was ok. Past two owners was f u ked this car up u know. careless drivers! I hope u will sort it out soon

Yea, Ah well its in good hands now (although funds are low :p) usually I'd break a car in this condition, but this is better off as a whole.
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
check plug gaps, condition/fouling, correct heat range, clean dizzy cap contact points

Apprently the dizzy and plug have been changed by previous owner and the problem didnt go away, I noticed it get a lot worse changing from cone K&N to standard filter. Its very intermitant, comes and goes. Is lovley on idle, then randomly shuts itself off. Or driving locally all perfect then a random cut off, or misfires on acceleration.

Just hasnt got a pattern. Could it be ignition coil? is there anyway to check this? and where is it located?

Thanks for all the help :)
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
MAF? dry solder?

important to check plug gaps correct, even new ones

I shall swap the throttle bodies over at some point and have a look see. I have suffered TB problems before (rough idles) but nothing that gives a complete cutoff. I did notice (not sure if everytime) that when it cuts out, a red light appears that ive never seen before. Will try get picture tomorrow of plugs and this mystery light.
 
it could be an fuel cut off switch, i had a similar prob in my renault 11 turbo, there was a switch in the boot that was there to detect rear end shunts, over the years it stuck in/rusted, after it was cleaned it worked fine, not sure if the march had this fitted, but it may be worth a look. Also not sure if it could be a knock sensor, again i had problems with these over the years, not sure again if the march had one.
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
engine check light, low battery, low oil pressure?

Come to think of it im not sure how ill take the picture as its random so ive drawn it lol:

light.jpg


it could be an fuel cut off switch, i had a similar prob in my renault 11 turbo, there was a switch in the boot that was there to detect rear end shunts, over the years it stuck in/rusted, after it was cleaned it worked fine, not sure if the march had this fitted, but it may be worth a look. Also not sure if it could be a knock sensor, again i had problems with these over the years, not sure again if the march had one.

Thanks for the suggestion, will need to have a read of Haynes manual and have a look. Its really irregular
 
Not even the March? Twas just a thought, seeing as the JDM is more geared toward safety, if it is a JDM wagon. Maybe a breakdown in the loom some where? Just sticking my 2penths worth in.
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
I noticed the manifold had the usual lambda sensor but the first cat also had a thin wire going to the bottom of it :S

I have seen that before on one of my old cars, it was a cat problem, ie over heat, but that was on a diesel

Did the car shut itself off?
 
it was on a Scenic DCI, and it went into limp mode, twice, it was on the DPF, but its much the same thing, once i have a DPF delete it was fine. Dont quote me as saying thats what the problem is, but i find it to much of a coincidence as to why renault/nissan choose to use the same light to indicate a similar problem, seeing as they work hand in hand
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
catalytic-converter-light.jpg

light.jpg


They do look very similar, thats drawn from the top of my head though, will need to confirm.

it was on a Scenic DCI, and it went into limp mode, twice, it was on the DPF, but its much the same thing, once i have a DPF delete it was fine. Dont quote me as saying thats what the problem is, but i find it to much of a coincidence as to why renault/nissan choose to use the same light to indicate a similar problem, seeing as they work hand in hand

Yes the car does go into limp mode, and does have a straight through exhaust... related?

The wire goes from under the front cat into the loom with the lambda
 

pollyp

Club Member
do you have a secondary o2 sensor behind the cat? maybe the lamp is to indicate the ecu has detected the 2nd cat isn't working efficiently?

or that ur oil chip pan is now ready to cook ur meal?
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
do you have a secondary o2 sensor behind the cat? maybe the lamp is to indicate the ecu has detected the 2nd cat isn't working efficiently?

or that ur oil chip pan is now ready to cook ur meal?

Ha! It'd be nice if it did cook me a meal to compensate for the lack of drive ability.

It could be a O2 sensor, never seen it before. I also noticed the second cat could be aftermarket (not too sure now with this car, so much is different) But there is a wire which emerges from under the handbrake and makes its way to under the dashboard.... lol
 
Btw pollyp, it sounds like limp mode error though

Edit: I have no idea to solve this solution but I am sure that experienced members will help you....
 
Still have the primary CAT? Thats seems a cat prob to me, same as what i had with my DPF on my Scenic, it would be helpfull to know what that other wire does, i am guessing its a EGT ot CAT Temp sensor, have you tried to remove/fool it and see what happens, if not do you have another cat you could try? One other thought is maybe its a RON sensor? maybe being a Jap import its designed to run on diff fuel and thats messing up the ecu, i know ron sensors are usually before the intake/fuel system, but it could be to do with the gas temp? maybe someone who knows better could answer this part, Polly maybe?
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
Still have the primary CAT? Thats seems a cat prob to me, same as what i had with my DPF on my Scenic, it would be helpfull to know what that other wire does, i am guessing its a EGT ot CAT Temp sensor, have you tried to remove/fool it and see what happens, if not do you have another cat you could try? One other thought is maybe its a RON sensor? maybe being a Jap import its designed to run on diff fuel and thats messing up the ecu, i know ron sensors are usually before the intake/fuel system, but it could be to do with the gas temp? maybe someone who knows better could answer this part, Polly maybe?

Sorry, but Im lost with all the abbreviations lol.

I only noticed this after it was dark, so i cant really do anything until probably this weekend. the exhaust seems clear however, very raspy and plenty of poke so doubt blockage. I shall try to remove the connectors and see what results i get.

Still think its something to do with the air or fuel. It has a braided fuel line from the filter to the engine so somethings been changed. couldnt see any differnt in the inlet manifold or TB
 
Basically it could be caused by crappy fuel messing up the ecu, japan has better fuel than us and if the ecu has been set up for that, that could be the problem, its doubtful but its could be. Try few tanks of high octane fuel? i know its a bit more expensive but at the very least the engine will thank you for it
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
Basically it could be caused by crappy fuel messing up the ecu, japan has better fuel than us and if the ecu has been set up for that, that could be the problem, its doubtful but its could be. Try few tanks of high octane fuel? i know its a bit more expensive but at the very least the engine will thank you for it

Yea i did read Japan has better fuel. Worth a try.
 
Even though the exhaust is flowing "properly" the cat can still be blocked and so can the o2 sensor, tbh mate it seems like a replace part by part scenario, unless someone knows for sure, and tbh i dont
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
Even though the exhaust is flowing "properly" the cat can still be blocked and so can the o2 sensor, tbh mate it seems like a replace part by part scenario, unless someone knows for sure, and tbh i dont

Thanks buddy, Today i spent looking at the HORRIFIC!!! noise. definalty the a/c compressor. Probably just put a normal belt on to bypass the compressor if anyone is giving one away lol
 
it might be worth contacting someone on the Australian site, see if they have had a similar problem, seeing as they are closer and have the same imports
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
it might be worth contacting someone on the Australian site, see if they have had a similar problem, seeing as they are closer and have the same imports

Thats a really good point.

To be honest, the engine is really sweet without the AC on it and the random cut off,
 
let me know how you get on mate, i still think its a cat/ecu/fuel problem, but i would love to be proved wrong, just from a learning point of view
 

pollyp

Club Member
Still have the primary CAT? Thats seems a cat prob to me, same as what i had with my DPF on my Scenic, it would be helpfull to know what that other wire does, i am guessing its a EGT ot CAT Temp sensor, have you tried to remove/fool it and see what happens, if not do you have another cat you could try? One other thought is maybe its a RON sensor? maybe being a Jap import its designed to run on diff fuel and thats messing up the ecu, i know ron sensors are usually before the intake/fuel system, but it could be to do with the gas temp? maybe someone who knows better could answer this part, Polly maybe?

far as I know, the only sensors a manual gearbox k11 ECU see's are MAF, TPS, coolant temp, neutral, PAS pressure, dizzy crank position sensor, primary O2 and facelifts have a secondary O2.

it wouldn't know the fuel octane nor if the engine is knocking
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
far as I know, the only sensors a manual gearbox k11 ECU see's are MAF, TPS, coolant temp, neutral, PAS pressure, dizzy crank position sensor, primary O2 and facelifts have a secondary O2.

it wouldn't know the fuel octane nor if the engine is knocking

It used to be an Auto ... :/ would that matter?
 

pollyp

Club Member
if you can purchase or have access to a consult telemetry diagnostic software like nissan datascan I'd personally look for abnormal sensor readings first before spending money replacing sensors n parts or else ur just throwing money at chasing ghosts
 

pollyp

Club Member
auto would have an Inhibitor switch that I think you'd need to bypass before converting to manual. maybe thats becoming faulty?
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
auto would have an Inhibitor switch that I think you'd need to bypass before converting to manual. maybe thats becoming faulty?

Where is this located? How do i check this?

If i remember your K11 used to be auto at some point? remembering about your blog
 
i wouldnt have thought so, unless the auto ecu is fitted still? i have NO experience with auto ecu's, so this would be better answered by someone who does tbh
 

pollyp

Club Member
Where is this located? How do i check this?

If i remember your K11 used to be auto at some point? remembering about your blog

yea technically my current grey k11 was originally an auto, been in a front shunt, replaced front chassis panel and converted to manual for some reason.
i dunno the exact procedure cos mine was already converted when i brought it, I remember there was an inhibitor relay located near the screenwash.

cos it was an auto, the reverse light circuit and the unused auto gearbox plugs go through a CVT controller below the ecu so it had no reverse light when i brought it.

then obviously I swapped literally everything over (loom, gearbox, axles, brakes etc) from my blue 98 SLX into this grey 93 SLX chassis
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
As predicted, cylinder 4 looks different to the rest when looking at the plugs. Rest are sooty.

Cylinder 1 plug:
1094424F-561C-4044-9148-1EA0676D9778-2347-000003FA5B082C9B.jpg

59CA8644-CFE3-42C9-9163-5E9E7092003D-2347-000003FA7580C015.jpg


Cylinder 2 plug:
75BEBA76-53A3-414A-B337-03FCD876493A-2347-000003FA6418C724.jpg

B5296156-6486-47C7-BE7A-BA1BDB834951-2347-000003FA7A45B2AE.jpg



Cylinder 3 plug:
5600E1F3-D774-4A2A-A78E-25735C34456C-2347-000003FA6A855100.jpg

0633167B-CF1B-44F4-9AE6-6A4BBA7DBF01-2347-000003FA807B828A.jpg



Cylinder 4 plug:
EDCC5F7B-FD1C-41BA-8949-03656922A433-2347-000003FA701F5542.jpg

B06790B4-39FD-4F1A-93AE-66628354D35F-2347-000003FA88F953FE.jpg
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
cyl 4 is running a lot leaner/hotter eh ! failing injector maybe ?

Would this sort of colouring occur from constant lack of fuel or now and again is short?

I guess I could swap that injector with another and see if the problem follows.
 

frank

Club Member
Would this sort of colouring occur from constant lack of fuel or now and again is short?

I guess I could swap that injector with another and see if the problem follows.
its a nice colour for an A1 engine, but the others look a normal 15 yr old engine in mid winter to me, and that one looks like its burnt the soot and oil off.
and yes swap 2 injectors then check again eh :)
 
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SuluR

SuluR

Buy & Sell Member
its a nice colour for an A1 engine, but the others look a normal 15 yr old engine in mid winter to me, and that one looks like its burnt the soot and oil off.
and yes swap 2 injectors then check again eh :)

But could one faulty injector cause the engine to cut out?
 
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