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Dattosan Machi Suzuki twincam 4wd project pg22

superls

K10 Tuner
looks good, shame about the cracks tho :( looks like it was too cold and or the top coat wasn't dry when the lacquer was put on.
 
Cheers scott, I agree that it was probably too cold. Oh well, luckily its only an engine bay and it looks a lot better than it did with the white front corner and the surface rust :)

Karl, ill go and look in my inbox. Its possible that I read a pm whilst busy or in the pub ect and then forgot. I do appologise and ill reply asap.

Cheers
Kev
 

r-reg-sr

-------
Site Supporter
this looks unique, it really is to like top job!!

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Thanks chap :)

I painted the top mounts and fitted some stainless nuts and washers, it looks even nicer now :D
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And fitted the brake lines back into the engine bay
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Last night I went to the scrapyard to find out where I went wrong with the mounts for the gearbox. All sorted now :)

I also managed to clean and paint the brake servo, with matt black paint. Then I refitted that and the cleaned up master cylinder. I also tightened up all the brake lines whilst I was there.

I cleaned and partially painted, then refitted the windsreen wiper motor.

I also cleaned and painted the steering rack and brackets. I also refitted that but I don't know whether to fit new gaiter or not. It maybe going a bit far considering they are fine apart from looking old and skanky :)

Hopefully will get a lot more of it back together this evening :)
 
I knew you would like it :D

Here are the pics that go with my last update, cleaning and painting stuff before its fitted takes a fair bit of time tbh :)

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And now iam giving my nuts a good soak in parafin, oh and the bolts as well :)

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Fitted the 5speed this lunch time
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Got new braided earth straps
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Started to tuck loom along its new route. This is the hole where the aerial cable come through, I made it bigger lol the wires that you can see need to be fed back through the grommet
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This plug goes to wiper motor but needs to be on other ssside of the grommet and fed through original hole
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This is the coil and starter wiring, this also needs to be on the other side of the grommet
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Back into bay behind headlight. Some wires will need extending
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Loom fits nicely into slam panel
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And needs p-clipping upto the chassis rail. All this will be above the arch liner and about 3-4inches away from the tyre :)
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This last bit of loom is for the battery, this will hide inside a battery box with the battery :)
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aLLeKs

Club Member (Trial)
:D this will be loud... I even find my exhaust annoying, and I don't have the cherry bomb installed :D I just have the stock backbox and one small silencer
 
lol i ran mine for 2 weeks with a 2 foot long pipe hanging off the bottom of the manifold using the standard centre box to quiet it down but oh god it was loud and when i drove it at night i got some funny looks i guess it was spitting flames underneath the car lol
 
Haha yes it will be very loud for sure :D

The plan is too get it running and then when I know how loud it is, I will be able to get a middle silencer to suit.

I can fit a huge silencer if need be, as long as it doesn't cause issues with ground clearance. My manifold downpipes are approx 30-40mm from the ground :D lol
 

aLLeKs

Club Member (Trial)
sounds nice... but a lil bit like vaccuum cleaner in this video :D ;) I am interesting to hear it running on a street. btw. the idle speed seems pretty high?
 
thats running on 2 aint it kev :eek: have you felt the primary,s temperatures ?

After a minute of running like that all the primaries are too hot to touch. But I can tell from the colour of the primaries that 1 and 2 are getting hotter than 3 and maybe 4.

Do you not think it sounds like 4 cylinders when I rev it up higher in the revs? Too me it sounds like it picks up on all 4 cylinders when revved!!

Ill get a cooling system on there and see if I can get it too idle.

As soon as the revs drop below around 2-2.5k it want to die, it'll only keep running if the revs are above about 2.5k.

Ill try pulling 1 lead at a time and see what happens, ill also read the spark plug colours tomorrow!

Thanks frank :)

And yes alleks a small amount of progress and you were correct! Its LOUD!
 

superls

K10 Tuner
definately dropping at least 1 cylinder on low revs and sounds like an intermittent one on revving. what setup was that running on?

check the leads and plugs, i had a similar fault that i diagnosed as plugs, but that was on a standard ma12 engine.
 
It only had 5bar comp on 2 3 and 4. I threw some oil down the plug ole's and got the compression back up. Now it runs and idles, sounds badass and is not so loud now. 84 db :D

Its gonna be quick, you can just tell from looking hearing and revving haha
 
Nah runs fine now.

Rings were sticky and dry, they weren't sealing. I bought the engine with no manifolds on it :(

I have had this before on other engines. Although in the past they have been fine for a little while, but the always tend to not last very long due to corrosion inside.

No bother though because iam building a high compression motor with worked head and cams :D
 

aLLeKs

Club Member (Trial)
ok, I always thought that oil is just a temporary solution, but if you say, that this will smoothen (right word? I don'T know :D) the rings again then it is just fine :p
 
i had the same problem with my sunny gti i bought a sr20 from a primera gt that had been stood for a while soon as i fired it up it sounded rough as hell i did the same as you chucked some oil down the plug holes and it ran sweet (Y) god yours sounds evil when you get the revs up i bet it shifts well
 
ok, I always thought that oil is just a temporary solution, but if you say, that this will smoothen (right word? I don'T know :D) the rings again then it is just fine :p

It could lose compression again, but we ran it for quite a while and I would have thought all the oil would burn away in that time.

I don't think the bores or rings are damaged! Just dry and not working as they should. The ring groove can get clogged and the ring can stick in.

Ill test it and get some miles on the engine. There is no smoke at all and there are no rattles ect. Sounds real good :)
 
i had the same problem with my sunny gti i bought a sr20 from a primera gt that had been stood for a while soon as i fired it up it sounded rough as hell i did the same as you chucked some oil down the plug holes and it ran sweet (Y) god yours sounds evil when you get the revs up i bet it shifts well

Cool that's a weight off my shoulders, hopefully it'll be all good.

I hope its as fast as it sounds :) ill drive it tonight or tomorrow, depends if I can find the driveshaft nuts! I may need to go scrappy :)
 
One of the carbs is flooding now!

The regulator is set at the lowest setting so iam not sure what else to do at this stage. I think that'll be a job for the rolling road, it miss fires on 1 and 2 because of the flooding carb.

Got a couple jobs done tonight. Connected the front brakelines and bled the brakes. Fitted a longer bolt into the rear mount. Also started to fit a radiator.

Still need to do a few more little jobs before I can test the beast :)
 

frank

Club Member
One of the carbs is flooding now!

The regulator is set at the lowest setting so iam not sure what else to do at this stage.

we had to fit a return pipe to our karts to stop the carbs flooding kev (with a 1mm restrictor inside the return pipe)
 
It does it even with the fuel pump disconnected frank! It runs missfires and the first carb until its about to run out of fuel. Then it'll run ok for a couple seconds, then run out of fuel.

To be honest, this is all beyond me! I wish I had carried out the mods to run injection, infact, I am thinking about fitting the injection back on. Iam desperate for a car now because iam about to move house, this has tax, mot and insurance and it won't bloody run.

I may need to trade this car for one that works if I don't have a solution soon :(
 
Me an a mate gonna slap original engine back ii tonight. Ill then slowly build up an injection engine I think so that it'll be economic and reliable.

This has just gone on too long, I either need to make this work reliably or I need to exchange it for something else. Maybe ill just get a k11 and put my coilies and bandies on :)

Infact anyone on here up for a swap?
 
Me an a mate gonna slap original engine back ii tonight. Ill then slowly build up an injection engine I think so that it'll be economic and reliable.

This has just gone on too long, I either need to make this work reliably or I need to exchange it for something else. Maybe ill just get a k11 and put my coilies and bandies on :)

Infact anyone on here up for a swap?
 

aLLeKs

Club Member (Trial)
Keep the car... it is really nice. swap the stock engine back in, should be not much work. and then take your time to convert the cg-one back to injection and swap it in if it is ready. but don't give it up just because this little problem with the bike carbs.
 
Thanks for the encouragement allekks :)

I spoke to another local rolling road garage yesterday afternoon. They're hourly rate is much more expensive than my usual place. I got talking to the lad on the phone, who turned out to be the apprentice, he got excited and offered to come over for an hour and help me diagnose the problem before I spend any money on the rolling road.

He convinced me not to book it in anywhere and not to remove the engine or carbs.

He is certain that the carbs are fine and the ignition is all good also.

He is 95% convinced that it is drawing in air in the first carb or manifold!! I will check tonight when I get some ether to spray around.

It makes sense though because its lean as #### on cylinders 1 and 2 and won't idle below 2500rpm!


I let you know how we get on tonight, but I have a back up car on the cards. Its a corsa sri that I drove for a year lol
 
I took the inlet and carbs off. Cleaned up flanges and resealed with sealant instead of gaskets.

Put it back together and now instead of spark plugs 1 and 2 coming out blue and 3 and 4 being sooty. Its now opposite, 1 and 2 are sooty and WET and 3 and 4 are now blue.

It runs better but still misses on idle.

And the manifold is still drawing air in around some of the welded areas. Tonight I will attempt to seal some of the pourous welds but ultimately I think I need to fabricate a new inlet manifold :(

And also I think iam gonna buy myself a k11 to nip about in for now :)
 

superls

K10 Tuner
i pressure tested the manifold so none of the welds should be porous, its not been dropped has it and been bent? are you using a gasket?
 
you did block/plug those holes in the bottom of the manifolds didnt you? the vacuum take-offs?

Yep they are sealed fine, I double checked that last night.

The whole lot has been bolted to the engine since it arrived! I guess it could have got knocked during transit but its unlikely.

The flange does need a skim but I thought it looked like it would be fine with some sealant.

I did have a gasket but it was worse, I ditched it in favour of sealant.

I have never ever ever had this much trouble with air leaks, that's why I didn't expect it to be an air leak.

I won't bother sealing the welds if they are 100% ok

Cheers
Kev
 
Iam trying to raise the cash I need to isnsure my 200sx driftcar, I want to drive it on the road again now, especially now its summer :)

So this is now being broken down! Let me know if you have your eye on anything in particular :) I may keep the shell and do something with it in a few years, tbh not sure if its worth keeping :D

Cheers dudes
Kev
 
Dont give up yet! Could you not try a pressure test on the inlet manifold once its bolted up (make up some kind of thing to sit where the carb is which you can pressureise? If you dont fancy welding it im sure i could make you something simple, just a blanked off tube the same OD of the carb, with a nipple wended onto it to put a pipe over or something.
If the problem has switch from 1&2 to 3&4, could it be the manifold is bowed so it depends on what order you bolt it up in? also, could it be an irregular fuel supply to the carbs?
Doesnt sound like a massive problem to me... stick at it mate, your have quite a car if you can get it running!!
 
My sisters boyfriend works for a rolling road. He told me to leave the engine and carbs alone so he could have a proper look. I finished all the other jobs that needed doing.

He found that the manny flange was a little squiffy, had a couple lows and highs. I skimmed it back up at work. He said he found a leak on the carb to manifold gasket on the carb that wasn't working.

He also decided that the idle jets were too small they are 40's. He had to wind the mixture screws all the way out (8 turns) and then it started to almost work. He is bringing me some 50's tonight and he is about 90% confident that'll cure it. It looks like the mains were blocked up a little also.

This miss is only at idle now :)

I drove the car forward and backwards and its lively but the clutch slips ALOT!

I fitted a new blueprint cluch yesterday but didn't quite get everything back together for a test, just got to fit rear mount and one hub/driveshaft assembly.

I will most probably take it out on the road tonight lol



FRANK if you read this, or anyone else for that matter! Can you comment on a good spark gap for cg13 on carbs? It has standard size/temp plugs!

FOR ANYONE WITH WEBERS. Did you find that the pedla doesn't travel far enough for full throttle? I just cut the bulge off the floor to fix the problem.

Has anyone found that the clutch hits the flywheels bolts when its fairly worn out?

Have I got the correct coil? I have preface coil and facelift dizzy! The spark looks fairly weak and not that blue!


Cheers
Kev
 

superls

K10 Tuner
i found the opposite and that there was too much travel in the pedal, ie hitting full throttle on carbs before pedal was on the carpet
 
thats great news mate hope the running issue is yesterdays news now lol. as for the coil would you be better just getting an uprated one? whats the condition of plugs and leads, rotor arm and cap ect?
 
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