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The Mighty Green Micra

LegoJeep

LegoJeep

Purchased an apple green GX 1.0 with 188000 km in October 2011

Known issues and general condition at purchase:

Some light rust behind the front right wheel arch, along the roofline of the boot, other various small patches
Right side door slightly dented, left fender dented near headlight
Right door handle not working
A clunking sound from the front right suspension
Left side front parking light out
Right rear reg plate illumination lamp out
Speedometer registers 7kmh over actual speed
Wiper blades very worn
Left side mirror defroster not working
Headlight wash sprayers not working

Bodywork and paint in generally good condition except for the afformentioned rust and dents
Summer tyres moderately worn, aluminium wheels need refurbishing
Winter tyres in fair condition, steel rims fairly rusted, can probably use for one more winter.
Motor runs strong and starts every time.
Clutch engages properly and gears shift smoothly
Oil changed recently
Coolant in good condition
No visible leaks, no drops underneath after sitting overnight
No smoke on startup after sitting overnight, while running, or when accelerating hard.
Interior in fairly good condition
Original jack and equipment in good condition
Full size spare tyre included, but in very worn condition
Original Micra rubber floor mats included
Heater, front and rear defroster, right side mirror defroster, and seatwarmers work
Front and rear windscreen wash nozzles all working properly
All knobs and switches function properly
 
What I have...

IMG_2820.jpg


What I want... sort of...

Edit2.jpg


Wishlist:

Delete:
roof rack mount
center bar from grille inserts
headlight wash sprayers
debadge
bump strips

Add/Change:
Mesh to grillework
Intake scoop
Possibly a roof scoop
Horizontal rear wiper
Smooth bumpers
Removeable front reg plate mount
Thinking of a smooth boot with removeable reg plate as well, but then would delete rear wiper
Lower a few cm(need a little clearance for the road to work, speedbumps, and Norwegian roads in general)
Slightly tinted windows
do this to the headlights(Awesome work from ITR-Mark)
DSC00846.jpg

....
Readjust front wipers so they lay a little lower
Some kind of aero wiper arms
White rallye wheels
Clean entire underbody and do a proper rust protection coating

I don't care so much about weight, but have already removed about 3kg of sand and road salt from the wheel arches and behind the mud flaps.

Would like to do some stuff with the interior, but want to get everything in order with the engine first :)
 
No scoop please. Seems like you going for sort of smooth look and by adding scoop you gonna ruin it. Please don't. Other that that car is looking like a minter
 
Think I've been playing too much Need For Speed lately.. but I always did like a smooth look.. and I don't really feel like taking the time to do a scoop. If I do one, it will be functional.. not one of these that you stick on with tape. And as far as the look in the pic, not bad for using MS paint eh :D
 
Yeah deffo been playing too much need for speed haha.

Looks good though, my 1.3 Si is in apple green (wanna swap your offside wing with a red one saying '1.3' haha?)

Keep us updated on what you do!
 
Color code bumper strip, no scoop, black OEM bonnet grill, and keep those headlight washer please !
 
Seb_ said:
Color code bumper strip, no scoop, black OEM bonnet grill, and keep those headlight washer please !
Click to expand...

May keep the bump strips on the side and paint them, but would still like smooth bumpers.
No roof scoop.. I origianlly put that up just to see how it looked, but have decided against it.. still thinking of a small offset scoop on the bonnet, but only if I do something major to the engine and need the extra airflow. Probably won't happen though.
Not really a fan of doing the grilles in black.. could try it in photoshop or something to see.
The washers don't work, or are disconnected.. I don't really like the look either. Going to relocate the washers from the top of the bonnet to just under the back edge of it as well.
 
Current projects for March and April:

Deep clean of underbody
Cleaning crud/sand/salt etc. from inside body panels *done*
Fix rusted areas
Thorough cleaning, derusting, and painting of engine bay *mostly done*
Possibly engine bay tuck :D
Clean and repaint steel rims (too rusted and bent out of shape)
Get everything ready for MOT in May
Replace or weld large rusted area in front crossmember
Front-end alignment
 
Planned projects for May and June:

New wheels and summer tyres
New door cards

July and August:

New suspension
Debadging
Smooth bumpers and roof rack mounts
Clear side repeaters
Headlights
Possible full respray
Add sound deadening material in key areas

September and October:

Underbody rust protection
 
Current projects For March and April(Continued)

Purchase and fit new distributor
Fit new stabilizer bar bushings before getting wheel alignment
Get the gaping rusthole in the front panel filled or buy a new one :(
 
POWER!!!!! I has it

Thanks to the input of many members on here, the Mighty Green Micra is feeling mighty again. Had an issue with the fuel pump, but everyone was helpful in suggesting what may be wrong.. soo through the process of elimination, and with much help, I have found out the problem and gotten a great deal of experience with working on my car.
 
I found 2 that were nearly identical but was attracted to the color of this one.. the other was silver, which isn't bad either, but it's really nice seeing this bright green car in the middle of a parking lot full of gray and black mercs and volvos :D
 
Update on the Mighty Green Micra:

..not much really.. The Mighty Green Micra has been out of action since the beginning of March. My job situation has changed, so my income has been halved, and a visit to the garage is out of the question for a few more weeks.

Should have scheduled my MOT by now, but have no funds for it. Lots to fix, besides the stalling problem.

If anyone could help, here is my problem:

When accelerating, the engine stalls and sometimes dies, but idles and revs while in neutral with no problem. This started with a small loss of power one day in November, but is not affected by weather or temerature. Eventually it got a bit worse, but would go away when the tank was full, and would start coming back as it got around half full. Now it is simply undriveable. I've changed the filters, spark plugs, and dizzy cap, but there has been no change. Checked the injectors, ignition, and timing.. nothing wrong there. Got a used TB and tried that, but no difference at all. Checked the fuel pressure today, and it stays pretty steady around 2.1 bar, even when the FPR vacuum line is disconnected(thought it would change?).

I'm about out of ideas, but I really need to get it going by next week.
 
So it wasnt the throttle body?? bugger!
I think it must be fuel. is there any way you could check the pressure in the rail while driving along? Sound like when the car needs lots of fuel the supply just isnt there.. blockage somewhere, pump not working properly, injectors gunged up... something along those lines.
 
i'm not sure how to check the pressure in the rail... but that could very well be the problem.. I think the FPR has gone, since the pressure didn't change at all with it disconnected.. need to find a replacement I guess.
 
LegoJeep said:
i'm not sure how to check the pressure in the rail... but that could very well be the problem.. I think the FPR has gone, since the pressure didn't change at all with it disconnected.. need to find a replacement I guess.
Click to expand...
fitting a gauge into the pipe supplying the rail gives the rail pressure eh, how did you measure the 2.1 bar figure ?
 
frank said:
fitting a gauge into the pipe supplying the rail gives the rail pressure eh, how did you measure the 2.1 bar figure ?
Click to expand...

I took the fuel line off the filter and fitted a gauge between it and the pressure regulator. I don't know what the pressure after the regulator is. For all i know it could be dropping off to near zero when I rev it.

Noddie said:
So it wasnt the throttle body?? bugger!
I think it must be fuel. is there any way you could check the pressure in the rail while driving along? Sound like when the car needs lots of fuel the supply just isnt there.. blockage somewhere, pump not working properly, injectors gunged up... something along those lines.
Click to expand...

Wasn't the TB :( I could maybe send it back when I have the cash. Was a bit dirty inside though.. how was the engine it came from?
 
you fit the gauge between the filter and rail eh, and that will register the pressure inside the rail, it should raise 1/2 a bar when you rev it :) (from 2.5 bar to 3)
 
oh... hmmm... (checking specs...) ...hmmm.. yes.. it would seem that I forgot to check that first... "2.5 bar approximate" ..but what is "approximate"? +-5%, 20%, how much? Is 2.1 bar too low? and it decreases very slightly when i first rev it but recovers nearly instantly. The engine is a 1.0 non turbo and unmodified.. should it still increase?

If it is the pump, how do I get it out of the tank? Been there before, but couldn't get the clip loose.
 
if it zooms up to 4 bar ish when you clamp the return pipe it wont be the pump eh, and the ebay f/p/r/gauge is probably only about 25% accurate imo
 
frank said:
if it zooms up to 4 bar ish when you clamp the return pipe it wont be the pump eh, and the ebay f/p/r/gauge is probably only about 25% accurate imo
Click to expand...
Was wondering about the accuracy of it.. will try clamping the return line in a bit.. eating dinner atm.
 
Was going to clamp the return line today, but had nothing to clamp it... decided to drive a bit(about 200ft) and floored it a could of times until it started stalling again.. checked the pressure and it was at 1.5bar... revved a few times and it dropped off to near zero... going to drain the tank now.. any tips to get the clips loose to get the pump out? Pics are worth a 1000 words.. a how to video would be priceless :D
 
...got it out. Thought it slid forward, but it slides back to come out... lotsa nastiness... brown sludge, something resembling sand in the bottom of the housing.. and... oh.. shiny metal filings.. looks like the pump is dead. Getting(or ordering) a new one tomorrow.
 
LegoJeep said:
...got it out. Thought it slid forward, but it slides back to come out... lotsa nastiness... brown sludge, something resembling sand in the bottom of the housing.. and... oh.. shiny metal filings.. looks like the pump is dead. Getting(or ordering) a new one tomorrow.
Click to expand...
ahh, nice one Lj, there are 2 different size pumps eh :)
 
frank said:
ahh, nice one Lj, there are 2 different size pumps eh :)
Click to expand...
Knew that much.. now I just need to find one I can afford. The most reasonable(cheapest) place only has Nissan pumps for the Maxima and for pickup trucks. Any idea if these are useable in a micra? Also need a new filler hose.. that seems to be where the sand got in. :(
 
i doubt if it matters what car its from, a long as it fits the clip somehow, and it sounds like the tank needs flushing
 
After some research, I found that the Maxima pump I found also fits the Micra. :)
Emptied the tank today to find lots of water in the botom :( as well as a good amount of sediment. Going to pull the tank and filler hose tomorrow as I have some plans today. Hopefully I can patch the filler hose instead of needing to buy a new one.
 
After an hour long struggle with the Mighty Green Beast, I emerge victorious with a fuel tank in hand... However, I have yet to remove the filler hose. I'm not sure what I can do with it. It is quite badly rusted at the top :(
 
Found that I had about 2 litres of water in the tank, as well as all the sand and sludge in the bottom. Never got the filler hose loose, as one of the bolts is badly rusted and I don't want to break it. Got the tank out, cleaned it well, patched the filler hose with electrical tape(due to it being stretchy and waterproof), reinstalled the tank(took only 10 mins compared with nearly an hour to get it out), filled in some petrol, and started it up. Checked the pressure which was holding steady at 3.1(maybe due to being a maxima pump?) and going up to around 3.6 when revving.

On a side note, one of my bosses recently had his car in the garage for the same problem and it set him back nearly 10000nok(£1000), while my at home replacement cost 449nok(£48)... nice :)
 
So its all fine? That's great! Not sure elec tape will last long around petrol but not quite sure where you used it:) well done mate!
 
Noddie said:
So its all fine? That's great! Not sure elec tape will last long around petrol but not quite sure where you used it:) well done mate!
Click to expand...
It's more to keep water out than to keep fuel in. It's just at the top of the filler hose where it meets the fender. Pics coming very soon. :D
 
evidence.jpg

Evidence of a leak...

holyrustflakesbatman.jpg


Source of said leak...

siltandfilings.jpg


Result of previously mentioned evil leak.. also, some remnants of the pump, in the form of metallic confetti :/
 
fillerhole.jpg


Rust and sand in the fuel port.. also, notice the plugged drain hole near the bottom.

Hose.jpg


Sand in the lower part of the filler hose.

nastiness.jpg


This is what the bottom 5cm of my tank was filled with. Water, silt, and all kinds of nastiness.
 
Noddie said:
So its all fine? That's great! Not sure elec tape will last long around petrol but not quite sure where you used it:) well done mate!
Click to expand...

LegoJeep said:
It's more to keep water out than to keep fuel in. It's just at the top of the filler hose where it meets the fender. Pics coming very soon. :D
Click to expand...
..if you have a look at the second pic, basically everything that is rusted is now taped. Need to replace it, but this will have to do for now.
 
POWER!!!!! I has it(revisited and summarized)

After months without a driveable car, I finally got the stalling problem solved. I was on the right track before when I got into the fuel tank, but I couldn't get the pump out and didn't want to risk breaking any plastic bits. Put it all together again and drove for a bit. Everything seemed fine and I had more power and no stalling, so I assumed maybe something was blocking the pump intake or something. ...but I was wrong.
Recently we've had very nice weather, so I can work on the car where it stands instead of using my landlord's garage. Got the pump out this time and found metal bits from the pump, as well as a lot of water and salt. Flushed the tank, repaired the leaking filler pipe, and put everything back together. Finally got to go for a short drive today, and all I could think was WOW.. POWER!! I has it :D Never really floored it, but even half throttle was more than I had before. I am quite happy now :D Looking forward to many roadtrips this summer.
 
Update of my first post, Issues that have been fixed:

Known issues and general condition at purchase:

Some light rust behind the front right wheel arch, along the roofline of the boot, other various small patches
Right side door slightly dented, left fender dented near headlight
Right door handle not working *Fixed*
A clunking sound from the front right suspension *Fixed*
Left side front parking light out *Replaced*
Right rear reg plate illumination lamp out *Replaced*
Speedometer registers 7kmh over actual speed
Wiper blades very worn *Replaced*
Left side mirror defroster not working
Headlight wash sprayers not working
Bodywork and paint in generally good condition except for the afformentioned rust and dents
Summer tyres moderately worn, aluminium wheels need refurbishing
Winter tyres in fair condition, steel rims fairly rusted, can probably use for one more winter.
 
Ideas and updates for July(written on lack of sleep, possibly to be edited at a later time when I am more alert and thinking better in english :)

I've taken several road trips the past few weeks(as I've got to do MOT before the end of the month, but I'm fairly certain it will fail due to rust) and wanted to get a few good trips in before I possibly have to park it. :(
If it fails and repairs will be too costly, I may just pick up another one and start this as a project car.
While out for a drive this past sunday, I came across a nice gravel road through the mountains, and old habits came back and suddenly I had driven about 40km in what seemed no time at all, only to be stopped by deep snow. I have to say that I am very pleasantly surprised by the handling and response of my little green beast on and off the tarmac, but seeing how bad the roads here are, and thinking of winter driving, and the road to work isn't the best, I don't really want to lower it. I don't want to raise it either.. but the new tire size I am considering will do that for me, and then I may do some suspension work.
If everything goes well with the MOT and it is only to get the rust fixed, I will be overjoyed and then I will begin the long project of fixing everything(see list further down), sorting out a second vehicle, and finally, when winter starts in, I will probably rebuild the engine and transmission.

To do:

Replace clutch
Front brakes, new rotors and pads, eventually new calipers
Body work, rust, dents, paint
Suspension, all new bushings, replace damaged parts, wheel alignment
Full service on engine, check water pump and timing chain, valves, etc
Pull out interior and find all interior rust
run wiring for speakers
wiring for lighting(map light, courtesy lights in doors, light on each side in rear seats, extra lighting in boot)

Too sleepy to think of more.. will post some pics when photobucket is more cooperative my my poor connection :/
 
Today I found out why it has been hard to start recently(much cranking and a coughing hesitant start with much black smoke).. A few months ago I had lost the tiny spring that goes between the dizzy and the cap, but got mixed answers when I asked about it on here... short answer is that you can drive temporarily without it, but there will be a lot of corrosion buildup. I cleaned the corrosion and used a spring from a pen. I'm hoping that the thickness of it doesn't really matter though. Started up with no problem :D
 
Update for August

List of recently addressed issues

Right side door slightly dented, left fender dented near headlight*somewhat fixed :)
Right door handle not working *Fixed*
Summer tyres moderately worn, aluminium wheels need refurbishing *Thrown out by evil landlady :(*
Deep clean of underbody *Mostly done/ongoing*
Fix rusted areas *In progress*
Thorough cleaning, derusting, and painting of engine bay *ongoing*
Get everything ready for MOT in May *Failed MOT due to brakes and severe rust, repair list at bottom*
Front-end alignment *Not needed; left ball joint worn, causing steering issues*

Repair list for MOT:
Replace front calipers, rotors, pads
Replace rear left brake line
Replace left ball joint
Repair exhaust leak
Repair rusted areas in sills

Soon ordering parts from Eurocarparts after I get a decent price on the welding.

Currently removing interior to save some time and money on getting the sills welded. While I'm at it, I will check for any other rusted out areas. I will also use this time to paint a lot of the gray plastic bits black, and to add some sound deadening material.
 
I like the van idea :D pretty good job considering you done it in ms paint :D love those wheel trims :p

you could get some green vinyl and do the rear windows to save you welding sheet steel for that look.

Looking at the mess you fuel system was in im supprised the car hadnt died forever, well done sorting it out :D
 
hoopdub said:
I like the van idea :D pretty good job considering you done it in ms paint :D
Click to expand...
I think a Micra van would be something a bit unique, and practical for me, since I often have to lower the seats to put stuff in. Also, I need something I don't need to worry about getting a bit dirty inside, as my work equipment is usually covered in mud.

hoopdub said:
love those wheel trims :p
Click to expand...
The wheel trims are quite common here, but I have the only set of black ones :D Getting some proper wheels when I have the cash.

hoopdub said:
you could get some green vinyl and do the rear windows to save you welding sheet steel for that look.
Click to expand...
That may be better, as I could still use the windows on warm days.

hoopdub said:
Looking at the mess you fuel system was in im supprised the car hadnt died forever, well done sorting it out :D
Click to expand...
Was pretty much just the pump, but I've cleaned everything and have had no problems since.
 
Update for February

Wow, 6 months since I've been on here.. kinda miss the place :/

Anyway, here is a list of things fixed recently:

Replace front calipers, rotors, pads Done
Replace left ball joint *in progress*
Repair exhaust leak Done
Repair rusted areas in sills Done
Redo underseal *in progress*
Reinstall interior Done

Will finally have the car legally roadworthy soon :D Simply haven't had the time or resources to do what needs to be done, and on top of that, I've been sick quite often during the past few months :(
Anyway, posting some pics when all is done
 
LegoJeep said:
fillerhole.jpg


Rust and sand in the fuel port.. also, notice the plugged drain hole near the bottom.

Hose.jpg


Sand in the lower part of the filler hose.

nastiness.jpg


This is what the bottom 5cm of my tank was filled with. Water, silt, and all kinds of nastiness.
Click to expand...


hi there, was it easy job to do this? what did you change with new parts? is it new hose pipe, fuel tank or fuel pump?
 
jk9194 said:
hi there, was it easy job to do this? what did you change with new parts? is it new hose pipe, fuel tank or fuel pump?
Click to expand...
Hey, sorry for the slow response. It wasn't an easy job for me at the time due to the location and lack of a proper jack.
It isn't really that difficult, if you pay attention and have patience.
You have to remove the rear seat to get to the fuel pump access, then open that, drain the fuel and remove the pump(if needed). Then go under the car and undo the fuel hoses and loosen the 2 straps holding the tank up. It would be very simple if you have an assistant and use a lift.
I only removed the tank to give is a thorough cleaning, but I did have to replace the pump, and should have replaced the filler hose but I just taped it up instead and it is still fine today.
I'm writing this in a very sleep deprived state :confused: so the best I can suggest atm is to consult the manual. There is a good procedure in there, but i have to add that in removing the pump, carefully remove the float sensor first, the remove the pump by lifting the clips and sliding it forward... just saved you some fuss right there ;)
Good luck with it all, and remember to post pics and such
...oh, and no smoking/well ventilated area/gloves/yada yada...
 

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