Superls's Superls

[superls]

Ive had her for almost two years now, it origionally was an LS. Over this time its undergon many mods, including, Almera GTI wheels, the LED rev counter:
HERE
plus many more which i have forgotten.

but as it stands now, it has the SS interia, SS bodykit, lowered 35mm, riding on KYB gas shocks and 175 60 13 tyres, i have fitted my custom cold air intake and the driving lamps in the grille, however the lamps were the very first thing that i fitted. A while ago i attempted to tint the side windows but failed badly. on the exhaust front i got the tip off of a stainless scorpian back box and welded it to the back of my backbox drilled a hole in the end of the backbox at the side of the tail pipe and removed all of the wadding from inside. i have removed the centre box.

And as of not too long ago i now have a fully custom built 4 - 2 -1 manifold on it, few pics can be found here

it also has a lightened flywheel fitted, i did this myself and it weighs 3.3kg

on the dashboard in a double pod i have oil pressure and a vacuum gauge.

next on the list is to fit my other set of steelies that are undergoing a refurb and a lick of white paint, get the windows done properly.

In the boot i have built a false floor with a hatch in it to access the spare wheel, and on the new fales floor sits a Vibe CBR10 Active Evo.

Here are a few pics in no order.
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x...%2022-10-2007/

[James]

That LED rev counter is brilliant!! Excellent work

Gorgeous SS replica, always have a soft spot for kitted K10s!

[superls]

almost forgot heres a couple of sound clips
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=MOV00835.flv
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=MOV00836.flv

[squarepants]

looks good and convincing replica, get some 15'' alloys on there and your sorted!

[Courior]

What do the clocks on the dash measure??

[superls]

left one is oil pressure and the right hand one is vacuum

looks good and convincing replica, get some 15'' alloys on there and your sorted!

nice thought but i dont want any alloys on there, especially not 15'', although if i had the money i would get my wheels banded.

[Arnold]

Looks good! the body work looks in excellent condition

those driving lamps are excellent too, i've got those on mine! not 4 though!!

[Micra 110]

Done well there! Could maybe do with a Strut brace....

Could you put up a pic of the Digital Clock and the Housing please? I'm after one of they meself

[curtis]

Done well there! Could maybe do with a Strut brace....

Could you put up a pic of the Digital Clock and the Housing please? I'm after one of they meself

got one if ya want it...

[Speedle]

loveley mate! all it needs is some original super s wheel trims (get them from nissan) and a super s sticker on the boot (also avaliable from nissan) i know its not a real super s but even a replica should have a sticker on it!

gorgeous!

[James]

Nissan Part number for a Super S sticker is: 90896-28B60 btw

[Speedle]

Nissan Part number for a Super S sticker is: 90896-28B60 btw

you got the electronic catalogue? share the wealth! and accept my friend request on live dammit!!!

[Robert]

Looking good! Only thing i'd do is remove the lights from the grill, too many lights IMO.

[superls]

Looking good! Only thing i'd do is remove the lights from the grill, too many lights IMO.

Every one to theer own, but i like them, plus they have sentimental value as they were the first ever thing i did to her.

[Arnold]

The super s i bought had lights like that, but were hidden behind the grille & mesh

[James]

I havent been on my Xbox for a while, i'll go online and do it now!

[Speedle]

I havent been on my Xbox for a while, i'll go online and do it now!

make sure you do! lol

[superls]

new wheels on
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x.../new%20wheels/
and a couple of vids.

[moddedmicra]

they look so nice!

also, where is ur timing belt cover on the earlier pics?

[superls]

they look so nice!

also, where is ur timing belt cover on the earlier pics?

cheers mate, and the cover was broken and cracked so i took it off, and havent got around to getting hold of a new one.

[ollyc98]

Is that exhaust a standard modified one?

[Micra 110]

Sounds cool! wheels look good too

[superls]

the exhaust is a modified standard one, it tells you exactly what right at the top, i think.

[ollyc98]

O right, should have read it properly lol.

[ollyc98]

O right, should have read it properly lol.

[superls]

not been updated for a while as i forgeo, lol,

but ive now added it to the first post also.

well it now has a fully 1 off custom built hand crafted 4 - 2 - 1 exhaust manifold on it pics

i have also lightened and fitted a 3.3kg flywheel, pics + sound

i have also made but not yet fitted my custom inlet manifold that hosts a set of honda cbr600 bike carbs, pics

thats all for now, cheers

[superls]

wow, cant believe ive not updated this in so long,

anyway, the car is back to standard proformance wise, has been for a while, but not for much longer as i have a few plans up my sleeve. lol



update

a while ago i accuired a cg13 block for cheap with a flywheel, my sole intentions at the time was to lighten the fly and sell it on and diasect the block hoping to find something interesting out and give me something to do, however i never got round to lightening the fly or diasect the block, they just sat in the corner of my shed for about 6 months.

tbh i had forgotten about the engine untill about 2 weeks ago when i posted up about piston rings and that set me thinking that there was a whole lot of myth around the cg13 k10 conversion, how easy it would be and what fit etc, so i decided that if possible i was going to try and clear up a few issues.

so i began last night.

as i have practically at least 1 micras worth of spares, (really, you give me a k10 bare shell and i could build in excess of 1 whole fully functioning k10 with a bodykit all apart from an interia), i decided i would test a few things out and document it along the way.

the main issues and myths.

1*will the k10 (or early 1 litre k11) gearbox fit on the cg13.
2*what mods are needed.
3*method of transfering drive from the engine to the gearbox.
4*again what mods.

answers i have personally found

1* not with no mods no, but can be easily made to in about 5 mins.
2* the 2 bolts at the top of the gbox and the one at the front need drilling out from 8.5mm to 10.5mm. and you need to use the cg13 gbox bolts, also the 2 support bars from the cg13 dont fit the k10 gbox, abd you will need the k10 tin piece which fits between the gbox and engine. the last thing to make the gbox fit is you need to remove the front locating pin from the gbox, i heated it up and drifted it out, easy,

now it will fit.

3* right this was a biggy, the cg13 fly wheel fowles on the inside of the k10 gbox bellhousing, so it cant be used, from futher inspection the cg13 fly is a slightly larger diameter to the k10 one also it is considerably thicker and protrudes futher out from the engine, this made me decide that the k10 fly needs to be used.

4* but the cg13 has a 6 bolt crank and the k10 a 5 bolt i hear you cry... yes your right but with a little engineering maths, a good set of drills and a little upstairs, the k10 fly can be drilled (successfully) to the 6 bolt configuration. i have already done this and it fits perfectly on the crank.
so then i refitted the k10 gbox , eurika the engine stull turns and nothing fowles or anything great.
the next possible problem i faced was if the started still engaged with the flywheel, so on i bolted a starter, i left off the tin protection cover so i could see, applied a little juice to the starter ond off it span, perfect the startor still engages the flywheel.
i really wanted to put a clutch on the flywheel to see if that still meshed alright but unfortunately i dont have one, but for the time being im assuming that seeing as the starter works ok the clutch will, owing to it working the same setup on a k10.

on a side note, i have a cg13 clutch so thought id try it on the k10 gbox and the splines dont fit, so its just aswell i cant use the cg13 flywheel.

anyway pics below.









before you say anything i only have 5 bolts for the flywheel as ive lost the 6th one.

[frank]

nice one superls a pre98 f/w would be an option eh ? and the k10 g/box,s tend to let go at 75hp+ i believe

[curtis]

k10 g/box,s tend to let go at 75hp+ i believe

Not true :P My old k10 was proof!!

[superls]

cheers frank, yes it would, but i dont have one to hand lol, and i know about the k10 g/boxes but the pre 98 cg10 g/box should do the job eh?

but i still cant decide how to go with the engine conversion,
buy a scrap/write off k11 and do the full monty and go efi, or stay simple and carb it, either the standard k10 carb or bike carbs or something similar?

[frank]

superls, twin carbs ftw, like aki
http://www.micra.com.au/community/me...essageid=43087
and a mini dizzy
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.p...1&d=1234131179

[Optispart]

that rev counter led is amazing how the hell did you do that its quality

[superls]

that rev counter led is amazing how the hell did you do that its quality

cheers mate, it took me quite a while to drill all the holes for the 40 led's, the electronics behind it is easy, (for me anyway lol),

do you wonna buy it? lol

superls, twin carbs ftw, like aki
http://www.micra.com.au/community/me...essageid=43087
and a mini dizzy
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.p...1&d=1234131179

yea still nedd to sort out the dizzy but im confident that i can get one of my spare k10 ones to fit. like the idea of twin carbs, but ill look into that when the time comes, might just stick the standard k10 one on to get it up and running first.

my old cg13 block ftw , gald your doing some productive with it lol, was just sat in my coal shed in the way lol.

i knew youde come in handy one day dan, lol (joking) i also have something of yours that will come in very handy, ;cough janspeed cough;

lol

Not true :P My old k10 was proof!!

it was only a matter of time, i had the bike carbs on longer than you had the webbers and i began to kill my g/box, got really sloppy in gears and really noisy. took it off before it blew up tho. lol

[curtis]

it was only a matter of time, i had the bike carbs on longer than you had the webbers and i began to kill my g/box, got really sloppy in gears and really noisy. took it off before it blew up tho. lol

I was running 90-95 bhp for about 5 months straight, was still fine and is still going strong now i believe, must be a speical box

[superls]

I was running 90-95 bhp for about 5 months straight, was still fine and is still going strong now i believe, must be a speical box

lol must be, lol

depends on the age, mileage etc of the box doesnt it?

mine had a lot of miles and had about 2 years of abuse from me 7 or 8 of them with the bike carbs

oh and it was origionally a 1 liter 4 speed box so might be different internals to the ma12 ones?

[squarepants]

my old cg13 block ftw , gald your doing some productive with it lol, was just sat in my coal shed in the way lol.

[squarepants]

have you fixed the janspeed now then?

[superls]

have you fixed the janspeed now then?

no, not yet, thats just stuck in the other corner of the shed, lol

[squarepants]

buy it back off you?

[superls]

serious? cant remember wot i paid, make me an offer via pm

[superls]

couple of quick updates, no pics unfortunately as theres not that much to show,

i came home last week to find a nice set of bike carbs awaiting me so was pleased about that, lol

in the past couple of weeks during the warmer les wet weekends of late ive been doing a few mods ready to 'bolt' on, i have 2 new doors ready to paint and put on, there nothing really special, its just that i need a new passanger door, so thought id go to town and de-lock them both, like i said they still need painting but i should be getting round to it soon.

i have also got 2 new wings to fit sa mine are both rusty, these will be getting the side repeater and aerial removed and smoothed then painted and fitted.

after a low speed incident in the snow i broke my Super S front bumper, so ive been repairing that, while i was at it im 'open mouthing' it and, fitting some new fog lamps, but again this needs painting (waiting for that magic weekend with no rain and some nice sun, lol),

when ive eventually managed to paint all these parts, ive got a new front crossmember to fit, as mine is a little but mis-shapen from a to-doo i had last year.

while i was sorting throught all the micra bits i have, i came across a new front grille, so ive also started to modify that too, not giving up much detail on it tho as its going to be a suprise, lol

i have rescently got all the metal tube and stuff to make myself a 4-2-1 and 4-1 manifolds, but im missing 1 vital thing, a welder, lol, dads being really tight with his and keeps moaning about gas, so i need to get myself some gas then i will have another part complete micra project, lol.

the on-going cg13 project has been held due to the lack of a gearbox, flywheel and a complete engine, lol, but as soon as i have these parts that side project can take off again, but on the up side i have an inlet manifold and have started to fabricate an aluminium adapter plate so i can fit my ma12 carb to it, just leaving the minor issue of dizzy fitting and a low pressure fuel pump.

so as you can read ive got alot of part completed projects, with quite potential end results.

had the dreaded mot last week too, i had to do a little welding on my passanger sill so i did it before i took it down, the number plate was cracked but i had already ordered one, a square one, i went through the whole car checking everything and couldnt find anything wrong, so took it down, went back to pick it up only to be handed a failure sheet, i was gutted, but after reading it, it wasnt that bad,

Rear fog light not working,
NS number plate light
NS headlight yellow bulb fitted
OS headlight yellow bulb fitted
OS number plate light

Needles to say id checked everything apart from the lights, lol.

Rear foglight did work, but the tester was trying the wrong switch, so i showed him and he crossed that off.

the guy told me yellow headlights arnt illegal but mine are too yellow, (but i had spares in the glove box so 30 seconds later i had passable headlights.

numberplate lights, the guy said, if its just the bulbs, put 2 in and ill pass it here and now, but if its not then you will have to sort it out and come back for a retest. so i bought 2 bulbs form him (well the garage) fitted them and bobs your uncle, they both worked.

so he dissapeared for a few minutes, came back and gave me an mot certificate, then complimented me on my sill repair and said ive got a nice solid car and to look after it.

so ive now got another years ticket on her, just taxed it yesterday, just the insurance on 2nd of april now, everythings come at once, lol.

[superls]

forgot to mention yesterday

i have finally fitted my almera 1.4 bigger vented brakes, after many months of searching ive managed to get hold of the right carriers, so thought i would fit them on sunday, i already had the k11 hubs, brandnew mintex disks and pads and the calipers, so coupled with the newly accuired carriers, i had everything i needed, well i thought i had.

striped one side down, got the k11 hub bolted to the strut, fits perfectly, the bottom ball jount must be slightly bigger on the k11, but it bolted down alright on the k10 ball joint, driveshaft splines are the same, everything was going so well until i got to the track rod ends, the k10 ones are too short, to get the wheel anywhere near straight there was only about 2 threads wound in, it was right on the end of the adjustment.

so a quick phone round (at half 1 on a sunday) and prising my bro from infront of the F1, we went to collect 2 new k11 track rod ends, not too pricey only £7 ea.

got home and measured one and the k11 ones are about 10mm londer than the k10 ones, got them fitted and everything bolted up, blead the system and took it for a quick test run.

at first glance braking force didnt seem to have improved as much as i thought it was going to, i mean it was sightly better but not throw you through the windscreen. however i was really happy with the results and how the conversion had gone.

monday on my way to work just going steady as to bed the new pads and disks in, braking was getting a little better, tuesday better still, on the way home from work gave it a little bit and with the old brakes they used to fade off really quickly, but the new almera ones didnt.

tuesday night, id got a little confidence in the brakes now and gave them a real good workout, and well, there ace, 10 times better than the k10 brake setup, they are really good at stopping really pulls you forward, and the best part about it is they never faded at all.

so overall im really happy with how it has turned out and just how good the new brakes are, there actually not that much bigger disks but there bigger pads and the disks are vented, making all the differance.

i highly recomend the upgrade to every k10 owner out there, plus your putting newer paret on which are cheaper and easier to come by.

[superls]

CG power on the way.

[curtis]

ill keep my eye on this thread..

[superls]

be warned it wont be for a while yet tho, is im in the stages of building my new workshop and havent anywhere to work yet, but was bored and thought id post something seeing as it was a quite day on the boards.

however it will happen before x-mas. and its going to be something special.

i think you may already know as youve seen my thread on the aoc.

[superls]

Wow, long time. Just thought id post up before I move into the new blog system.

right firstly I need to big up the main man that is "FRANK" for his help in finding parts and his blog for all his useful experiments.

Started acquiring parts for a CG conversion 18 months ago, got a CG13 bottom end off of squarepants back then, did a few experiments with it, (above). but more important things came up over the backend of last year, (I bought my first house in June, its our family home been there since I was born, massive back garden, really good neighbors can do anything anytime, all mine and my dads w/shops etc, off road parking for 4 cars, (or 1 van and 2 cars lol), it was being auctioned off and we would most definitely been evicted if I didn’t buy it) anyway, autumn time last year I mentioned to frank I was after a CG10 complete engine, low and behold he pm's me back, there’s one here, bla bla bla. few days later I had a complete CG10 engine flywheel and a few other bits, that sat in the shed for a while as I was busy building my new workshop, next months pay came in and I advertised on here for a CGA3 crank, no one replied. But reading franks blog one day and I noticed he had 2 CGA3 engines, so a quick pm to him and a few days later had a CGA3 crank and shells, that too sat around for a while.

Got my w/shop up and weatherproof, got to the inside,

right off topic slightly the w'shop is 10 meters long, 1 long building, but my plan is to sub divide it up internally, 1st 1/3rd machine shop, lathe drilling welding etc, 2nd 1/3rd clean w'shop my electronics and clean things, 3rd 1/3rd storage for my fishing tackle and my dads wood working machinery etc. got the 1st 1/3rd done, put the first partition wall up then ran out of pennies this was about November time, decided not to spend any more just yet as I needed to catch up on my credit card.

Back on topic.

List of things I had at my disposal

CG13 bottom end, block, pistons, crank, shells, etc, etc.
CG10 complete engine,
CG13 cams
spare CG head
CG13 flywheel
CG10 flywheel
CGA3 crank
probably other stuff too

one evening, got bored nothing else constructive to do so I dragged the CG10 engine in the w'shop up onto my specially made stainless steel topped 'engine rebuild and welding bench' couple of hours saw it stripped the bare bones and everything in labeled bags

stripped the CG13 bottom end also into labeled bags.

right bit of tech now.

as can be found on wikipedia or other places Haynes etc,

CG10 is 998cc
CG13 is 1275cc
CGA3 is 1348cc

The CG10 and 13 have the same bore, 71mm,
However the strokes are different, 63 and 80.5 for the CG10 and CG13 respectively,
The CG3a has a bore of 72mm and a stroke of 82.8

My original plan was CG10 block CG10 pistons CG13 rods CG13 crank, giving me a high compression 1275cc in a CG10 engine number.

However my plans changed somewhat when I discovered the CGA3 shared the same bearing spacing’s and sizes as the CG10 and CG13.

The new plan was CG10 block, CGA3 crank, CG13 rods and CG13 pistons.

Giving a potential 1311cc, however this was going to run into a problem as the longer stroke pushed the pistons out of the top of the block, some head scratching later and I came up with 2 possible options and my dad came up with 1, my 2 were get some CGA3 rods, but ill talk about that below, the other was machine some off the crown of the piston with my newly acquired lathe.

For the record my dad’s idea was a crap idea, it will never work, don’t waste any more time or money on it, you have an engine in your car that works bla, bla, bla.

I opted for turning the top off the pistons, so a few calculations later I came up with how much needed taking off, but seeing as I only had 4 pistons and couldn’t afford to ruin one I put the crank in the engine with a piston and actually measured how much needed taking off, this corresponded with what I had calculated, cant remember exactly how much but it was more than 1mm but less then 2mm.

Made a tool for taking the gudgeon pins out, its sort of a press as drifting just wasn’t working.

I gingerly machined one of the pistons, refitted it and it was bang on then machined the other 3.

Re-fitted the rods and pins, now onto the reassembly of the engine, I’m not going to go into details as it was an ordinary engine build, honed the bores etc checked everything with the Haynes etc, refitted the old piston rings the exact opposite way the Haynes tells you.

Finally ended up with a complete engine once again

I mentioned above about CGA3 rods, there’s 2 reasons I didn’t use them, 1, I didn’t have any, 2 by machining the CG13 pistons I was removing the dish and making them more flat topped thus upping the compression

Summary of what it is:

CG10 block with custom machined CG13 pistons, CG13 rods, CG series head with CG13 cams.

In simple terms a high ish compression 1311cc motor.

Once it was complete I made an adapter collar to make the k10 dizzy fit into the k11 head, also I made a piece that fist onto the k10 dizzy to make the drive the same as the k11 cam.

I made an aluminum plate that bolts onto where the k11 dizzy fits, with holes in it so the k10 dizzy can be adjusted and locked.

Months and months ago I made an adapter plate to enable the k10 carb to fit onto the k11 inlet manifold.

I also made a custom 35mm ID 4-1 manifold that comes out of the collector at 47mm ID and onto the rest of the system in 47mm ID but i've yet to fabricate this.

While the engine was on the bench I got a k10 block and drivers engine mount and made a jig that bolted onto the gearbox holes for reference and the engine mount, I bolted this onto the CG10 block so I knew where the engine mount needed to be, I had a spare k10 engine mounting chopped it up, got some 1” x ¼” flat bar and made a driver side engine mount.

I had the engine completed mid December, but was waiting for the Christmas break off work to get it in and running, I decided to start it the week between Christmas and new year. I couldn’t believe how well the installation went I never really ran into any trouble the engine mated with the k10 gearbox, my jig made engine mount lined up perfectly, had a bit of an issue with the heater hoses but all came good, used a k10 bottom hose a k11 top hose, the matrix pipes were a bit more tricky though, the fittings on the engine are ¾” so off to the motor factors came back with some ¾ inch pipe, cut to length pushed on the engine, came to put on the matrix, too big, the k10 heater matrix is 5/8”, back off again got some 5/8” pipe, fitted on the matrix fine but a bit tight onto the engine, had to warm it up in hot water but it was ok.

Got the inlet manifold and k10 carb on, had to buy an electric fuel pump as the k10 one is mechanical and obviously the k11 isn’t.

Came to put the exhaust manifold on, as I had used quite long radius bends to aid flow it stuck out quite far from the engine, it his the god dam radiator, only by about 5mm too. So for the time being I got my k10 4-2-1 and re-drilled the flange to the k11 bolt pattern (the ports are the same) and fitted that.

The k10 alternator is 3 wires, main to battery, to light and excitation current. The k11 one I had was only 1 wire, as I couldn’t be bothered with altering the wiring I altered the bracket and had to make a top bracket so I could fit a k10 alternator onto the CG engine.

Time came to fire her up, double checked all connections etc, turned key, bit of gas, never really fired, at which point my dad wondered out, giving it all I told you so, etc as they do, turned over again bit more gas, bang flame out of carb.

Now I’m like yea it’s definitely got fuel and spark, it’s just in the wrong order, plug 1 our, dipstick in hole turn engine till at TDC, dizzy cap off is the rotor arm pointing at plug lead 1, no, well turn it so it is then, right cap back on, plug back in, turn key again, right were cooking on gas now, but lumpy, had to turn the idle up but at least it was running, I was happy for the day, was getting dark and very cold and tea was ready. After tea and a good night sleep, got up early straight into w’shop altered the new 4-1 manifold to make it fit, fitted that, and now armed with my strobe gun fired the motor up and let it warm up, disconnected the vacuum advance to the dizzy, turned off connected strobe gun and kicked her up, turn on strobe gun, crap its about 35 deg advanced, quick adjust dizzy, adjusted it to around 10deg BTDC.

Fitted bonnet and bumper back on, took her for a spin, it wasn’t right but it was running, the carb wasn’t jetted correctly (which is obvious as the cams are different there’s twice as many valves and it’s a bigger engine), over the next couple of weekends I experimented with jetting, i’ve got it now where its almost bang on, but with out a rolling road session it wont get any better.

The standard carb is only a stop gap anyway as i’ve got a set of bike car'bs which i’m going to make a manifold for and also i’ve got a set of 2 twin choke Weber 36dcnf’s (the same type that Curtis and speedle had on there car).

If you got this far well done, i'm sure I wrote less than this for my final college project ha-ha.

[frank]

nice one scott
another project successfully completed

[Shaun]

awesome read! well done

[Ceirwan]

Now you have it on the road again, how much faster (acceleration) wise do you find it compared to the normal MA12?
Any plans to get the fuel injection back on??

[superls]

thanks for the nice comments

@ceirwan

you cant really compare the ma12 and my cg engine, theres that much difference, the acceleration is sooo much faster and responsive, its also upped the top speed but i wasnt reall interested in that.

ive not done any 0-60 runs in it yet, but i plan too once everythings done, at the moment i have no real plans ot put the injection back on, ive got a pair of webber carbs same as the ones curtis and speedle had fitted, so they are the next step.

however ultimately i would like to move over to injection and mapable fuel and ignition, but that wont be for some while yet as i dont have the money for an ecu.

and once its on injection etc the plan would be to charge it, not sure which way to go yet but id certanly like it charged.