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I used one of those "universal" CV boot kits for $20 instead of the $120 for the Nissan part. 6 months later, it has split all around close to the tyre. Not happy Jan! I should have known better, the original was probably 3-4 times as thick. Chalking this one up to experience.

Thanks very much, guys! Just to confirm, that part number WAS the correct one, so thanks kovert for supplying it, and thanks dens for offering.

Ok, I've now managed to cut the o-ring loose. Does anyone know the specs of the o-ring? The o-ring pack I bought at Repco doesn't seem to have an exact match. The original seems to have an ID of 22.5mm. The cross section is about 4mm wide and about 3mm deep. That being said, I strongly suspect...

Thanks asdame, I will give it a go.

Thanks for replying, frank2! So let me get this straight - are you saying that I don't have to loosen belts and remove the water pump at all? Just remove the pipe and somehow get the o-ring or washer in there?

I just changed my driver's side CV boot, which had split. It is a messy job. If I were to do it again here is what I'd do (educational purposes only, don't sue me if this wrecks your car/life etc). Maybe someone finds this useful. 1. Make sure that you have: - a hammer and a rubber mallet...

I figured I'd revive the thread, since I have the problem of the leaking o-ring at the pipe/coolant pump housing. I guess I'm going to have to get the water pump off somehow, clean in the back, find an appropriate sized washer and put everything back together with liquid gasket? I bought a new...

I know this is an old thread, but it has been very useful to me. The answer to detach8's question (where the idle screw is) is here: https://micra.org.uk/cmf/message/37918

Another thing that is probably worth doing is greasing the bearings if you open up the motor for the idle control valve. Maybe that was the intention of asdame's post (#7 in thread), although not mentioned explicitly.

I thought I'd share this on here in case it helps anyone out. It may sound a bit stupid, but it worked for me and maybe it will help someone out. At the moment I'm trying to get rid of the (!) light below the fuel gauge. (I only just found the Owner's Manual today, and the Haynes manual doesn't...

Ok, I have some more numbers. Tank 2: 4.83l/100km Tank 3: For some reason when I clicked the odometer it caught and I didn't realize it hadn't advanced from zero until too late into the tank. Tank 4: 4.98 l/100km I'm now driving 80-90km/h on the highway, depending on my mood. Sometimes...

Well, I have my first fuel economy figure. 5.2l/100km over 515km. That's about 80% highway (mostly around 100km/h, some 80km/h), although it seems like it's more in the city because that part can take a long time. I'm a bit bummed I can't get the 4.4 (or better), so it looks like the website I'm...

eeden, thanks for the info. Well, I am now the proud owner of a Micra, so I'll let people know what I get in a week. I hope I filled it up properly, I think I did. It was on empty and I put 33 litres into it. Some comments: it drives like a sports car! The thing just sits. And when you plant...

Hmmm... I wonder... I've driven a Nissan Pulsar before. I know that when you turn off the engine, neither the speed or the odometer register anything. Maybe you are getting the increase in fuel economy but not getting the engine off km?

I guess I just enjoy it (and not getting wet in the rain with a postie bike)? My commute is a bit large for me to not want to use the freeway. Ultimately there is probably no more point than building a dyno queen, or a quarter mile drag car, or a rally car. Horses for courses.

Well, it looks like I'll be getting a Micra, put the deposit on it today. I'll see what I can do with it over a full tank. I've got a good amount of experience hypermiling, so it will be interesting to see what I can do. I suspect I'll be able to beat the 4.4l/100km figure, and do better if I...

Cold air certainly increases power. Efficiency, only at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Here is a quote I pulled from gassavers.org that explains it pretty well, except they have it around the wrong way - for any given mass of oxygen, a corresponding amount of fuel is injected: So what happens is...

I don't think it matters. My belief is that they are black like most of the other plastic engine parts because they don't show oil stains. If you want to be ultra, ultra pedantic, black will help because it will absorb IR and help heat up the intake air (assuming it is colder than the engine bay).

It's not that simple. Power is the output. Litres of petrol per unit time is the input. All else being equal, in any engine the amount of fuel used to produce a given amount of energy (per unit time) depends on throttle and rpm. This is mapped on a BSFC curve. BFSC is Brake Specific Fuel...

That's interesting. I haven't really got into hacking into engine internals yet. Do you think it would work, and how hard and expensive do you think it would be?