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£40 with mounting brackets and ISO/DIN wiring adapter and antenna adaptor

£10 horn works with a simple tapped hole and screw to extend the steering column floating contact, passes MOT

£15 mounted 4 terminal wiring for quick disconnect, and connection to original connector in boot

£25 Includes centre horn push switch and mounting screws to mount to steering wheel boss

£30

£50

Probably all collection only in Manchester (except small bits that are easy to post like steering wheel/boss, air box) Janspeed 4-2-1 manifold with working MAF sensor SOLD Janspeed full stainless steel exhaust and back box (full decat) + custom modded Mini centre cat to pass MOT SOLD...

I'm plodding away at a snail's pace with the gearbox bearing replacement and managed to get the input shaft bearings out/off, and the diff bearing outer races, but I have a 3 size set of 3-arm bearing pullers which are too fat-fingered to pull the tapered bearings off (as there's only a tiny bit...

Ok, so after a long time I've finally got round to having a go at replacing the gearbox bearings and clutch/bearing and I've got everything else off (I think) following the Haynes manual* and pollyp's post about it. * so vague lol, no need to undo the bloody trackrod end ball-joint! Had a go...

I've drained the gearbox and have plenty of 80w oil to put in, but can't remember how to get the oil to actually go in. I've removed the speedo drive (and the screw) and have tried: - a funnel that was slightly narrower than the whole opening - some 1/4" tube that seemed to fit over the inner...

I think my gearbox is on its way out (reverse often won't engage 2 out of 3 times, rarely a forward gear won't engage, the centre return spring isn't there anymore, it always has a seeping of oil, and lately the rolling/rumble sound with the clutch engaged has increased so I guess a bearing is...

I've replaced the front suspension with KYB Excel-G K11 shocks and HOL tarmac springs, and rear suspension with KYB Excel-G Corsa-B shocks and HOL tarmac springs. Springs are 50 and 60mm drop. I'm determined to get the Noddy adjustable panhard rod on to sort the back offset out. But what is...

I'm in the middle of swapping out the shocks and springs to Corsa Bs and HOL 60mm. I've got the right side shock out and not really sure how to get the spring out? If I press down on the axle/hub it springs back up? I'm going to take the left shock out and see if the axle drops any more. I...

If anyone has the springs or shocks lying around, let me know how much you want for them :)

I've got a '96 K11 1.0 and finally got around to fitting a KYB Excel-G suspension kit that I bought second hand on eBay. It was advertised with 40mm lowering springs but turns out they are just OE-spec stock height (I guess just the regular ones that come with the KYB kit?) Anyway, after...

The L/H headlight fuse socket has got worse and worse and is beyond cleaning up, melted pretty bad. I scavenged the fuse/relay boxes and wiring loom from an R-reg K11 (mine is N-reg), and they appeared to be the same (another R-reg in the yard was different somehow, can't remember now, possibly...

So I've replaced my cross member (bolted in) and am still yet to weld it in place. After a week or so of research, I'm fairly set on getting a welder in the 150-160 Amp range using refillable gas. One of the welding guides I came across said that disconnecting the battery terminals wasn't...

I replaced the cross member today on my '96 K11 and the radiator brackets on the bottom are rusted, welded over and I think one of the bolt holes has been welded through. Not looking very promising to salvage mine (they look like **** basically lol), so looking to get some in decent condition...

Right, I got an airbox courtesy of nexussteve (thanks btw :D ) Managed to get the old intake pipe out (battery bracket looks like it would need a few hours penetrant lol) with some jiggling of the coolant tank. Got the stock airbox off and fitted the GA16 airbox, connecting the small ~5mm...

While removing the manifold and exhaust today, I noticed one of the bolt points of the central section of the cross member is quite severely rusted. I know this means I need a new cross-member/frame section, but what I'm asking is, Is this dangerous to continue driving on for a week or so...